Rapaport Magazine
Retail

Designer Lines

By Amber Michelle
As the dark days of the recession are ending, jewelry is taking on a brighter, lighter and more contemporary look as seen at the recent round of summer shows, including JCK and Couture in Vegas as well as JA New York, Luxury Privé, ENK Accessorie Circuit and the NY NOW gift show. Lacy vintage-inspired openwork has been replaced by clean lines and geometric forms with large areas of open space. It is still a style that uses less metal and small diamonds to keep the price point accessible, yet it is more modern, with a sleek edgy feel. It also has that all-important big presence — that many consumers love — without being too flashy, as understatement is still desired, but the need to be discreet is dissipating. It also keeps the pieces from appearing heavy. The word for jewelry at this point in time is open. Open center cuffs and rings, or cuffs and rings with a layered feel, but negative space between the bands that lets some sexy skin show through is the mode of the moment. Diamonds are everywhere, especially small diamonds that are sprinkled across jewelry as accents or applied generously for high impact. Baguettes are popular with designers for their geometric simplicity, while rose cuts remain a favorite for their subtle shimmer that couples with less ornate settings surrounded by modern-cut diamonds.
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   The quality of diamonds has also improved, with boart diamonds and heavily piquéd stones melting away, replaced by diamonds with more dazzle, although gray and other muted-tone opaque diamonds still hold a prominent place in jewelry, especially for alternative bridal. These diamonds are no longer directional; they are now part of the mainstream design vocabulary along with diamond or gemstone slices. Yellow diamonds with their sunny sparkle and brown diamonds with their more neutral shimmer look especially appealing, and both have a friendly price point. These shades meld beautifully with the caramel browns, earthy greens and the warm mellow yellow tones that are so prevalent in 1970s-inspired boho chic fashion that is being shown right now.
   Yellow and rose gold move to the forefront with platinum, white gold and silver also firmly in the spotlight. Darkened metals are now supporting players and are used as part of a design palette that adds dramatic contrast to the bright tones of yellow gold, silver or white diamonds.
   Necklaces are trending smaller, with more delicate lariats and Y-necks being directional. Fringe and tassels, especially in neckwear, are important players, either done in metal with diamond accents or made from diamonds.
   Big earrings remain the focus of attention. Mismatched earrings are on trend for the more fashion forward and ear climbers continue to gain popularity.
   Design that uses simple, bold geometric forms with a sprinkling of diamonds is on target for a contemporary expression that reflects today’s style.

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - September 2015. To subscribe click here.

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