Rapaport Fair Trade - Frequently Asked Questions
What is fair trade?
Fair trade is not a trademarked term in and of itself and there are presently a
few ways the term fair trade is used in the jewelry industry:
- Many common fair trade products such as coffee, cotton, flowers, and bananas carry
labels from an umbrella organization called the Fairtrade Labeling Organization
(FLO) (http://www.fairtrade.net).
As a condition for labeling a product as fairtrade, FLO guarantees that the products
meet certain ethical standards. Their certification process is very long and detailed
and to date no gems, minerals, or jewelry products have been officially certified
fairtrade by FLO.
Nevertheless, The Association of Responsible Mining (ARM) (http://www.communitymining.org) has set up standards for FT
gold (Standard Zero:
http://www.diamonds.net/fairtrade/Docs/Standard_Zero_FairTrade_Gold_2007.pdf),
and TransFair USA (http://transfairusa.org)
is working on a feasibility study to determine if diamonds can be certified through
FLO at some point.
- Another global umbrella network of fair trade organization is The World Fair Trade
Organization (WFTO) (http://www.wfto.com/).
WFTO does not certify products, but rather certifies the producer. Products verified
by this organization vary from cosmetics to nuts and cloth manufacturers. Jewelry
producers that meet IFAT criteria, will be certified by WFTO as fair trade.
- It is sometimes the case that independent miners/manufacturers will designate their
products "fair trade" if they can vouch for the product’s origins. These miners/manufacturers
may own the mine and the cutting facilities or have other means of unequivocally
knowing the sources from where their materials come.
What is the Rapaport Group doing to contribute to the development of ethical and
fair trade jewelry?
Projects:
Peace Diamond Alliance
This initiative was funded in-part by the Rapaport Group and its intention was to
develop monitoring standards for alluvial diamond mining sites. It was established
in the Kono district in Sierra Leone during the 2005/2006 digging season, in which
four digging sites were created and 240 diggers were supported by the project.
‘We learned that Sierra Leone does not need more diggers and that the best way to
promote development is by establishing sustainable economic development. We learned
that industry must work together with government and NGOs to create new economic
realities. We learned that there will be tremendous demand for fair trade diamonds
and that no matter what the cost or the loss we have encountered — we are doing
the right thing.’ -Martin Rapaport
Vukani-Ubuntu Route-to-Market
Vukani-Ubuntu is a cooperative in South Africa that provides innovative training
programs in jewelry design and manufacturing to historically disadvantaged individuals
(HDIs). Vukani assists disadvantaged youths to realize their full potential, and
to create a self-sustainable future for themselves. Without a way for their jewelry
product to be sold, this landmark project was not growing at the pace that could
be realized. The Rapaport Group is helping to provide Vukani with a route-to-market
pathway to allow its jewelry to cast a greater net.
Monitoring in Sierra Leone
The Rapaport Group continues to build upon the foundation formed by the Peace Diamond
Alliance in Sierra Leone. The network of people built through this project has been
an invaluable asset as Rapaport progresses towards monitoring standards. Without
the arduous undertaking of monitoring of diamond mines, no system of fair trade
will be possible, and no credibility will exist. This first step is one of many
to come that will change the lives of diggers who attempt to support themselves
and their families on $1 U.S./day.
Publishing
The following are a selection of articles that were published in the Rapaport Diamond
Report:
Fair Trade Jewelry by Martin Rapaport – January 5, 2007
Does Anyone Care by Martin Rapaport on Cover – January 5, 2007
Spiritual Sparkle by Martin Rapaport – June 2006
Guilt
Trip by Martin Rapaport - April 4, 2000
Conferences
South
Africa Fair Trade Jewelry Stakeholders Conference at Jewellex International Trade
Fair - July 15, 2007
Rapaport Fair Trade Jewelry Conference at JCK Las Vegas, June 4, 2007
Rapaport Fair
Trade Jewelry Conference at JCK Las Vegas, June 5, 2006
Rapaport
International Diamond Conference, February 2007
What are alluvial/artisanal diamonds?
The terms alluvial and artisanal are frequently paired together, and often used
interchangeably although they have slightly different designations.
Typically, diamonds originate from geologic rock formations called kimberlites.
Alluvial diamonds are diamonds that have been carried by rivers and streams away
from their original kimberlite rock sources and now rest in small deposits. Rather
than use industrial machinery to mine these diamonds as is used in kimberlite pipes
where large collections of diamonds remain close to their source-- these diamonds
are mined using artisanal mining techniques.
Artisanal mining involves digging and sifting through mud, sand and gravel with
shovels, sieves, and other simple equipment. Skilled manual laborers carry out the
work in contrast to the heavy machinery used in large industrial diamond mines to
pull out large deposits of diamonds at once.
Artisnal mining comprises 40 percent of total diamond mining. Some of the larger
mines in South Africa or Botswana are not considered artisanal – they are considered
industrial.
What are rough diamonds?
A rough diamond is one that has not yet been cut and polished. Diamonds emerging
immediately from the ground are considered rough. Diamonds sold in retail shops
are finished cut and polished products.
What does it mean if a gem or mineral is deemed ethical?
A gem or mineral is deemed ethical if they are ‘produced and traded in ways that
avoid or lessen social, environmental, economic, cultural and/or political harm.
They should also provide social, environmental, economic, cultural and/or political
benefits on a local, regional, national and/or global scale. Read more about it
on the Madison Dialogue Ethical Jewelry Summit Terms for Discussion.
www.madisondialogue.org
What are fair trade gems?
Independent mining and cutting facilities sometimes designate their products as
fair trade because they are sourcing their own materials and may be responsible
for the working conditions at that level.
These gems can be found through companies like Columbia Gem House www.columbiagemhouse.com
– and their correlating jewelry design company –
www.trigemdesigns.com. Another resource for such gems is the
German site
http://www.faire-edelsteine.de.
(they respond to inquiries in English)
There are currently no gems that have been certified and labeled fairtrade by the
Fairtrade Labelling Organizations (FLO). www.fairtrade.net. A feasibility study
is currently underway to determine whether or not diamonds can be certified by FLO.
This might open the door to colored gems.
What is fair trade jewelry?
Some jewelers create pieces from materials that are ethically mined and manufactured.
Each jeweler follows varying practices that are often described on their websites.
Examples of these jewelers include:
Reflective Images –
www.celticjewelry.com
Trigem designs –
www.trigemdesigns.com
April Doubleday –
www.aprildoubleday.com
Fifi Bijoux -
http://fifibijoux.com
Cred Jewellery –
www.credjewellery.com.
There is progress being made through ARM/FLO to create a standard for fair trade
gold and the platinum and silver associated in gold mining – see
‘What
is Fair Trade Gold’. This is in its pilot phase and has not been released
yet.
An Ethical Jewelry Summit in Washington, D.C. in October 2007 addressed these topics.
More information about this conference can be found at:
www.madisondialogue.org.
What is fair trade gold?
The Association of Responsible Mining (ARM) (
http://www.communitymining.org), in conjunction with the FairTrade
Labelling Organization (FLO) has created a set of principles known as Standard Zero
to define fair trade gold. They are in the initial phases of testing these standards
in Latin America. ARM/FLO hope to move the testing of these standards to Africa
and beyond if a successful Latin America pilot is run.
The mining of gold often – but not always – includes the use of chemicals that are
hazardous to people and the environment. There is currently a movement to use recycled
gold and some jewelers promote recycled gold in their products. The use of recycled
gold does not support artisanal impoverished miners in rural and third world nations.
Standard Zero provides recommendations to miners on how to improve both short term
and longer term goals, a reduction in chemical use, as well as safe storage and
safe disposal is recommended.
What are conflict diamonds?
Conflict diamonds, also known as "blood" diamonds, are rough diamonds used by rebel
movements or their allies to finance armed conflict aimed at undermining legitimate
governments.
This definition is provided by the
Kimberly Process.
It is commonly assumed that new conflict diamonds now compromise less than 1 percent
of total diamonds in the marketplace.
What is the Kimberley Process?
The Kimberley Process (KP) is an international certification scheme that regulates
the trade of rough diamonds. It aims to prevent the trade of conflict diamonds,
while helping to protect the legitimate trade of rough diamonds. In line with these
goals, KP has developed a set of minimum requirements that each of its nation participants
must implement (See Sections II, V (a), VI (8,9) of the KPCS doc for exact language).
Nations that are involved in the Kimberley Process (KP) are prohibited from dealing
in diamonds with nations that are not a part of the KP. Therefore, most countries
that mine, cut, deal, or sell diamonds are members of the KP. Currently there are
74 countries that are involved. KP participants can be found here:
http://www.kimberleyprocess.com/structure/participants_world_map_en.html
Members of the KP also include non-governmental organizations, such as Global Witness,
Partnership Africa Canada, and the diamond industry (via the
World Diamond Council).
What is the Kimberly Process Certification Scheme? (KPCS)
The KPCS is a subset of the Kimberley Process (KP). It mandates that the countries
involved in the KP use a certificate system by which rough diamonds are certified
to have been mined in a conflict free environment. Each nation has their own version
of a KP certificate, but there are certain requirements that the certificates must
meet. There are only certain people who are allowed to issue the KP certificates
in each nation. The certificates are all paper and have a unique numbered code on
them. Once certified, the diamonds are sealed in a tamper-resistant container with
the certificate, and the package is then transported in tact to a Kimberley Process
compliant country. Upon receipt of the package, the importing country will inspect
the seal and the certificate and report the number on the certificate and the quantity
of carats. Here is an example of a KP Certificate for the European Commission:
http://www.info-diamond.co.uk/rough/images/kimberley_process_en.jpg
Should I buy only Canadian mined diamonds?
If you are searching for conflict-free diamonds, the Kimberley Process has been
set up to avoid the trade of conflict diamonds. The diamonds coming into the U.S.
and other KP member nations have all been certified to be conflict-free.
You are still skeptical? Think about it this way – diamonds that are being mined
in places that may have once been in conflict – mostly African nations – are some
of the poorest countries in the world – but are some of the richest diamond producing
countries. Sierra Leone’s net exports ($185 million) for 2004 were predominantly
diamonds ($127 million) – at 68%. This country is also classified by the UN as the
second worst off country by their Human Development Index (HDI).
Sierra Leone:
HDI: 176 out of 177
Population: 5.5 million
Median age: 17.7
Life expectancy Male: 39.6 (years)
Life expectancy Female: 42.5 (years)
Under 5 mortality rate: 28% of children die by age 5
Population living below national poverty line ($0.75/day): 70.2%
Adult Illiteracy Rate: 65%
Why then, would you exclude buying diamonds from African nations like Sierra Leone?
This will only crush these already jeopardized people further.
How can I become involved?
- Buy ethically mined and manufactured goods. You are what you buy – and you are what
you do not buy.
- Ask your jeweler where they are sourcing their materials. Some
of this comes with trust, but they should be able to provide you with further information
about the materials. Ask them about the Kimberley Process and about conflict diamonds.
If you are not comfortable with their response then find a jeweler that is passionate
about these issues.
- Educate others about what you have learned. There is a huge
learning curve here, both with jewelers and consumers.