RAPAPORT...
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The Night of the Iguana Brooch, sold at Christie’s Elizabeth Taylor auction. Diamond-set beast was
described as a dolphin by its designer, Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. It was given to Taylor by Richard Burton for the premiere of the film of the same name
on August 11, 1964.
Photo courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd. 2011. |
It seems record-breaking prices have become the norm at every major jewelry auction, but a look back shows that the highest prices paid for certain gems and jewels were set more than 20 years ago. That these records have held up is all the more remarkable considering the tremendous increase in appreciation for rare and fine, unique gems and jewels in recent years.
The potential audience for these treasures is dramatically more global than it was barely a quarter-century ago. This is partly due to the sophisticated and aggressive marketing by the top auction houses, but also to the new wealth being amassed in parts of the world that were not even on the radar until recently. Stir in a limited number of available pieces and records are bound to be set.
While rarity, provenance and authenticity are the usual hallmarks behind record-setting results, economic conditions can play just as big a role. A rush to hard goods, considered a safer haven than cash, has been evident in the current global turmoil. These new collectors have become highly sophisticated consumers of gems and jewelry, demanding the very best.
There is a magnetic attraction to owning the only one of its kind, whether it is the largest fancy vivid yellow diamond or a unique tutti-frutti bracelet. Gems and jewels held within a family for generations have a special attraction. The gems are less likely to be treated or enhanced and their provenance can be traced back to their creation. Letters between creator, seller and buyer add a frisson of excitement. An owner’s intriguing life can add astonishing value to gems and jewels that, although very desirable in their own right, would be unlikely to command the prices generated at auction.
While the sale of an individual gemstone or a piece of iconic jewelry may capture the momentary, occasional spotlight, the long-lasting attention adheres to the single-owner sale. Until December 13, 2011, when the sale of Elizabeth Taylor’s magnificent gems and jewels smashed records galore, the spotlight seemed permanently affixed to the 1987 sale of the jewels of the Duchess of Windsor.
Both the 270-lot Elizabeth Taylor sale and the 304-lot Duchess of Windsor sale captivated global audiences. But satisfying the desire to own a piece of history came with a hefty price tag. Many of the Elizabeth Taylor lots brought ten times the estimates. When the hammer came down for the final lot, the total reached $137,235,675, a single-owner sales record likely to stand for many years to come.
The two women, who captivated the public and the press for decades, loved jewelry. And the men who loved them satisfied that desire, although in very different circumstances. Elizabeth Taylor was in the public eye from the time she was 12 years old, when she appeared in “National Velvet.” Her glamourous lifestyle, her long movie career, followed by her involvement in humanitarian causes, and her much-publicized marriages and divorces kept her in the spotlight.
The stylish Duchess of Windsor became an object of prurient interest, thanks to her romance with the heir to the British throne, which ended in his abdication and changed the very course of history. The sale of her jewelry also marked the moment when it became acceptable to buy second-hand jewelry. The result was $50,281,887, a record for a single-owner sale that remained intact for 24 years.
WHITE DIAMONDS BY CARAT PRICE
Top lot
The Elizabeth Taylor Diamond
Christie’s New York, December 13, 2011, Lot #80
$8,818,500
$265,697 per carat
Estimate: $2.5 million to $3.5 million
A cut-cornered rectangular cut D, VS1 type IIa diamond weighing 33.19 carats, set in a ring. The ring was a gift from Richard Burton who purchased it at Parke-Bernet Galleries in New York on May 16, 1968.
Second highest
The Annenberg Diamond
Christie’s New York, October 21, 2009, Lot #170
$7,698,500
$240,000 per carat
Estimate: $3 million to $5 million
The square emerald cut 32.01-carat D flawless, type IIa diamond, set in a ring by David Webb, is flanked by two pear-shaped DIF diamonds.
Third highest
Pair of Unmounted Diamonds
Sotheby’s Hong Kong, October 6, 2010, Lot #1991
$4,850,347
$2221,648 per carat
Estimate: $3.2 million to $4 million
A pair of unmounted, round cut D flawless diamonds, each weighing exactly 10.88 carats.
YELLOW DIAMONDS BY CARAT PRICE
Top Lot
Vivid Yellow Diamond
Christie’s New York, December 13, 2011, Lot #53
$962,500
$367,366 per carat
Estimate: $120,000 to $180,000
A fancy vivid yellow marquise cut VVS1 diamond weighing 2.62 carats, set in a ring by Bulgari, 1961, with pear-shaped, marquise cut and round white diamonds.
Second highest
The Burden Diamond
Sotheby’s New York, April 1, 1997, Lot #679
$3,302,500
$238,792 per carat
Estimate: $650,000 to $750,000
Marquise cut fancy vivid yellow VS1 diamond weighing 13.83 carats, set in a ring with round and baguette white diamonds.
Third highest
Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond
Sotheby’s Hong Kong, October 6, 2010, Lot #1807
$1,048,719 $204,030 per carat
Estimate: $950,000 to $1.1 million
Round cut fancy vivid yellow VS2 diamond, weighing 5.14 carats.
PINK DIAMONDS BY CARAT PRICE
Top lot
The Vivid Pink
Christie’s Hong Kong, December 1, 2009, Lot #2455
$10,776,660
$2,155,332 per carat
Estimate: $5 million to $7 million
A fancy vivid pink VS1 type IIa cushion shape diamond weighing 5 carats, set in a ring with two shield-shaped diamonds, by Graff. Bought by an Asian private.
Second highest
The Graff Pink
Sotheby’s Geneva, November 16, 2010, Lot #550
$46,158,674
$1,862,739 per carat
Estimate: $27 million to $38 million
Round-cornered rectangular step-cut, fancy intense pink VVS2 type IIa diamond weighing 24.78 carats. From a private collection, sold to Laurence Graff.
Third highest
The Perfect Pink
Christie’s Hong Kong, November 29, 2010, Lot #2103
$23,165,968
$1,627,966 per carat
Estimate: $15 million to $19 million
Rectangular cut, fancy intense pink VVS2 type IIa diamond, weighing 14.23 carats, set in a ring
WHITE DIAMONDS BY TOTAL PRICE
Top lot
The Star of the Season
Sotheby’s Geneva, May 17, 1995, Lot #470
$16,438,750
Estimate: $13 million to $16.5 million
Named by the anonymous buyer, this unmounted, pear-shaped 100.10-carat DIF diamond was considered remarkable for its classical proportions.
Second highest
The Chloe Diamond
Sotheby’s Geneva, November 14, 2007, Lot #382
$16,189,769
Estimate: $13.3 million to $17.8 million
Unmounted round cut 84.37-carat D flawless, triple EX diamond, named by the buyer, Georges Marciano, founder of Guess? Inc., after his 12-year old daughter.
Third highest
The Mouawad Splendour
Sotheby’s Geneva, November 14, 1990, Lot #642
$12,760,000
Estimate: $12 million
Named by the buyer, Mouawad, the 101.84-carat DIF diamond is a unique, 11-sided, pear-shaped mixed cut. It was the largest DIF diamond ever offered at auction.
YELLOW DIAMONDS BY TOTAL PRICE
Top lot
The Sun-Drop Diamond
Sotheby’s Geneva, November 15, 2011, Lot #506
$12,361,558
Estimate: $11 million to $15 million
A stunning fancy vivid yellow pear-shaped VVS1 diamond weighing 110.03 carats, newly mined in South Africa. It is the fourth diamond weighing more than 100 carats to be sold at auction, all of them at Sotheby’s Geneva.
Second highest
The Vivid Yellow
Christie’s New York, October 18, 2011, Lot #334
$6,578,500
Estimate: $6 million to $8 million
A pear-shaped fancy vivid yellow VS2 diamond weighing 32.77 carats. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) documented the rarity of this vivid yellow diamond.
Third highest
Pair of Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond Earrings
Sotheby’s Hong Kong, October 6, 2010, Lot #1992
$4,994,748
Estimate: $3.3 million to $3.8 million
Emerald cut fancy vivid yellow diamonds weighing 21.17 and 20.77 carats are suspended from two oval DIF diamonds, each weighing 2.02 carats, set into frames of round cut diamonds.
PINK DIAMONDS BY TOTAL PRICE
Top lot
The Graff Pink
Sotheby’s Geneva, November 16, 2010, Lot #550
$46,158,674
Estimate: $27 million to $38 million
Round-cornered rectangular step-cut, fancy intense pink VVS2 type IIa diamond weighing 24.78 carats. From a private collection, sold to Laurence Graff. This gem had not been on the market since it was first sold 60 years earlier by Harry Winston.
Second highest
The Perfect Pink
Christie’s Hong Kong, November 29, 2010, Lot #2103
$23,165,968
Estimate: $15 million to $19 million
Rectangular cut, fancy intense pink VVS2 type IIa diamond weighing 14.23 carats, set in a ring and flanked by two DIF rectangular diamonds.
Third highest
Fancy Intense Pink Diamond
Sotheby’s Geneva, May 17, 2011, Lot #491
$10,841,222
Estimate: $9 million to $16 million
Emerald cut, fancy intense pink VS1 type IIa diamond weighing 10.99 carats. Purchased by Leviev.
BLUE DIAMONDS BY CARAT PRICE
Top Lot
Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond
Sotheby’s Hong Kong, October 5, 2011, Lot #2851
$10,135,897
$1,686,505 per carat
Estimate: $9 million to $11
million.
A fancy vivid blue cushion-shaped 6.01-carat diamond set in
a ring, flanked by oval pink diamonds.
Second highest
The Bulgari Blue
Christie’s New York, October 20, 2010, Lot #448
$15,762,500
$1,439,497 per carat
Estimate: $12 million to $15 million
The Bulgari Blue, a 10.95-carat triangular-shaped vivid blue diamond, is set in a ring, circa 1972, with a 9.87-carat triangular cut G, VS1 diamond.
Third highest
Star of Josephine
Sotheby’s Geneva, May 12, 2009, Lot #357
$9,488,754
$1,349,752 per carat
Estimate: $5.8 million to $8.5 million
A fancy vivid blue IF modified rectangular round cut diamond weighing 7.03 carats. The stone was cut from a 26.58-carat rough recovered at the historic Cullinan mine in South Africa in 2008.
GREEN DIAMONDS BY CARAT PRICE
Top lot
Fancy Vivid Green Diamond
Sotheby’s Geneva, November 17, 2009, Lot #408
$3,078,914
$1,221,791 per carat
Estimate: $3.2 million to $5.4 million
An unmounted, cushion modified round cut fancy vivid green VS1 diamond weighing 2.52 carats was sold to an Asian private.
Second highest
Fancy Vivid Green Diamond
Sotheby’s New York, October 21,1999, Lot #730
$662,500
$736,111 per carat
Estimate: $600,000 to $650,000
A round cut fancy vivid green VS2 diamond weighing .90 carat. The stone was described by the GIA as the largest of its type ever graded by the lab.
Third highest
Fancy Vivid Yellowish Green Diamond
Sotheby’s Hong Kong, April 6, 2011, Lot #1810
$782,600
$692,566 per carat
Estimate: $500,000 to $580,000
A fancy vivid yellowish green pear-shaped VS2 diamond weighing 1.13 carats, set in a ring, surrounded by round white and pink diamonds.
ORANGE DIAMONDS BY CARAT PRICE
Top lot
The Mandarin Orange
Sotheby’s Hong Kong, October 5, 2011, Lot #2669
$2,956,410
$705,587 per carat
Estimate: $2.4 million to $2.95 million
A cushion-shaped 4.19-carat fancy vivid orange VVS1 diamond mounted on a shank set throughout with round cut diamonds. Sold to an Asian private.
Second highest
Fancy Intense Pinkish Orange Diamond
Sotheby’s New York, April 20, 2010, Lot #557
$3,106,500
$405,019 per carat
Estimate: $2.5 million to $3.5 million
A rectangular modified round 7.67-carat fancy intense pinkish orange IF type IIa diamond was set in a ring, framed by small round white diamonds.
Third highest
The Pumpkin Diamond
Sotheby’s New York, October 30,1997, Lot #657
$1,322,500
$238,718 per carat
Estimate: $500,000 to $550,000
Fancy vivid orange cushion-shaped 5.54-carat type IIa diamond was dubbed the Pumpkin Diamond. Purchased by Ronald Winston for Harry Winston. It was the largest diamond of this color ever graded by the GIA.
BLUE DIAMONDS BY TOTAL PRICE
Top lot
The Wittelsbach Diamond
Christie’s London, December 10, 2008, Lot #212
$24,311,190
Estimate: $15 million to $20 million
Seventeenth-century, cushion-shaped 35.56-carat, deep grayish blue VS2 diamond. Two top bidders for this historic stone stated they would recut the stone to achieve better color and to close a very large open culet. The diamond was later recut by the buyer, Laurence Graff, to 31.06 carats to achieve fancy deep blue color.
Second highest
The Bulgari Blue
Christie’s New York, October 20, 2010, Lot #448
$15,762,500
Estimate: $12 million to $15 million
The Bulgari Blue, a 10.95-carat triangular-shaped vivid blue diamond, is set in a ring, circa 1972, with a 9.87-carat triangular cut G, VS1 diamond.
Third highest
Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond
Sotheby’s Hong Kong, October 5, 2011, Lot #2851
$10,135,897
Estimate: $8.9 million to $10.9 million
A fancy vivid blue cushion-shaped 6.01-carat diamond set in a ring, flanked by oval pink diamonds.
GREEN DIAMONDS BY TOTAL PRICE
Top lot
Fancy Green Diamond
Christie’s Hong Kong, May 28, 2008, Lot #2340
$3,485,291
Estimate: $2 million to $3 million
A square-shaped fancy green diamond weighing 10.36 carats, set in a ring within a pear-shaped and round cut pink diamond surround.
Second highest
Fancy Vivid Green Diamond
Sotheby’s Geneva, November 17, 2009, Lot #408
$3,078,914
Estimate: $3.2 million to $5.4 million
A modified cushion round cut fancy vivid green VS1 diamond weighing 2.52 carats.
Third highest
Fancy Yellowish Green Diamond
Sotheby’s New York, April 19, 1988, Lot #412
$1,705,000
Estimate: $1.5 million
A pear-shaped fancy yellowish green diamond weighing 3.02 carats, set as a pendant, featuring two rows of fancy pink diamonds, suspended from a neck chain of fancy pink and white diamonds.
ORANGE DIAMONDS BY TOTAL PRICE
Top lot
Fancy Intense Pinkish Orange Diamond
Sotheby’s New York, April 20, 2010, Lot #557
$3,106,500
Estimate: $2.5 million to $3.5 million
A rectangular modified brilliant cut 7.67-carat fancy intense pinkish orange IF type IIa diamond was set in a ring, framed by small round white diamonds. It was the largest diamond of this color ever graded by the GIA.
Second highest
The Mandarin Orange
Sotheby’s Hong Kong, October 5, 2011, Lot #2669
$2,956,410
Estimate: $2.4 million to $2.95 million
A cushion-shaped 4.19-carat fancy vivid orange VVS1 diamond mounted on a shank set throughout with round cut diamonds. Sold to an Asian private.
Third highest
Fancy Intense Pinkish Orange Diamond
Christie’s New York, December 7, 2010, Lot #56
$2,378,500
Estimate: $2 million to $3 million
A pear-shaped fancy intense pinkish orange VVS1 diamond weighing 10.91 carats, set in an 18-karat rose gold ring, flanked by half-moon diamonds and round diamond shoulders.
RED DIAMONDS BY CARAT PRICE
Top lot
Fancy Purplish Red Diamond
Christie’s Geneva, November 15, 2007, Lot #356
$2,667,567
$1,180,340 per carat
Estimate: $1.3 million to $1.6 million
An octagonal fancy purplish red SI2 diamond weighing 2.26 carats, set in a ring with white and micropavé pink diamonds. Purchased by Laurence Graff.
Second highest
The Hancock Red
Christie’s New York, April 28, 1987, Lot #408
$880,000
$926,315 per carat
Estimate: $100,000 to $150,000
An unmounted round cut fancy purplish red diamond weighing .95 carats, sold to the European trade. The rarity of red diamonds is evident in the price achieved by this stone more than a quarter-century ago.
Third highest
Fancy Red Radiant Cut Diamond
Phillips New York, October 24, 2001, Lot #112
$1,652,500
$860,677 per carat
Estimate unavailable
A fancy red radiant cut VS2 diamond weighing 1.92 carats.
RUBY BY CARAT PRICE
Top lot
Ruby and Diamond Ring
Christie’s New York, December 13, 2011, Lot #77
$4,226,500
$512,925 per carat
Estimate: $1 million to $1.5 million
An oval cut 8.24-carat Burmese ruby set in a ring with a round diamond surround by Van Cleef & Arpels. The ring was a gift from Richard Burton to Elizabeth Taylor for Christmas 1968. Sold to a U.S. private.
Second highest
The Graff Ruby
Christie’s St. Moritz, February 15, 2006, Lot #352
$3,637,480
$421,981 per carat
Estimate: $400,000 to $600,000
A ruby ring by Bulgari set with an 8.62-carat cushion-shaped Burmese ruby, purchased by Laurence Graff.
Third highest
A Ruby and Diamond Ring
Christie’s Hong Kong, November 29, 2010, Lot #2037
$2,970,128
$421,893 per carat
Estimate: $1.5 million to $1.9 million
An oval 7.04-carat Burmese ruby ring. Sold to an Asian private.
SAPPHIRE BY CARAT PRICE
Top lot
Sapphire and Diamond Earrings
Christie’s Hong Kong, May 31, 2011, Lot #3275
$4,114,570
$145,339 per carat
Estimate: $2.6 million to $3.8 million
A pair of ear pendants featuring cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphires weighing 14.84 carats and 13.47 carats, suspended from pear-shaped diamond clusters. The lot was sold to an Asian private.
Second highest
A Sapphire Ring
Christie’s Hong Kong, December 1, 2009, Lot #2453
$2,396,820
$143,953 per carat
Estimate: $725,900 to $1,037,000
A cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire weighing 16.65 carats set in a ring by Van Cleef & Arpels. The ring was bought by an Asian private.
Third highest
Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet
Christie’s Hong Kong, June 1, 2010, Lot #2388
$6,915,624
$139,399 per carat
Estimate: $3.1 million to $5.1 million
Nine cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphires weighing a total of 49.61 carats alternate with marquise cut diamonds in a bracelet by Cartier, circa 1960.
RED DIAMONDS BY TOTAL PRICE
Top lot
Fancy Purplish Red Diamond
Christie’s Geneva, November 15, 2007, Lot #356
$2,667,567
Estimate: $1.3 million to $1.6 million
An octagonal fancy purplish red SI2 diamond, weighing 2.26 carats, set in a ring with white and micropavé pink diamonds. Purchased by Laurence Graff.
Second highest
Fancy Red Radiant Cut Diamond
Phillips New York, October 24, 2001, Lot #112
$1,652,500
Estimate unavailable
A fancy red radiant cut VS2 diamond weighing 1.92 carats. It is rare that a diamond receives a rating of pure red, with no modifiers.
Third highest
Purplish Red Diamond
Christie’s New York, April 25, 2007, Lot #256A
$958,400
Estimate: $600,000 to $800,000
Rectangular cut fancy purplish red VS2 diamond weighing 1.59 carats.
RUBY BY TOTAL PRICE
Top lot
A Ruby Ring by Chaumet
Sotheby’s New York, October 26, 1989, Lot #47
$4,620,000
Estimate: $800,000 to $1 million
A ruby ring by Chaumet, Paris, set with a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 32.08 carats, from the collection of Luz Mila Patino, Countess du Boisrouvray. With a Gübelin report stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin.
Second highest
A Ruby and Diamond Ring
Sotheby’s Geneva, May 17, 2011, Lot #484
$4,265,586
Estimate: $2 million to $4 million
A ring set with a cushion-shaped Burmese ruby weighing 30.20 carats and flanked by two pear-shaped DIF diamonds weighing 2 carats and 2.02 carats.
Third highest
A Ruby Ring
Sotheby’s Geneva, May 17, 1995, Lot #464
$4,036,250
Estimate: $1 million to $1.5 million
A ruby ring set with a cushion-shaped ruby weighing 27.37 carats. The Gübelin lab reported the stone to be of Burmese origin, with no indications of heat treatment.
SAPPHIRE BY TOTAL PRICE
Top lot
A Sapphire and Diamond Brooch
Christie’s Geneva, May 18, 2011, Lot #321
$7,122,742
Estimate: $850,000 to $1.3 million
A sapphire and diamond brooch set with a cushion-shaped 130.50-carat Burmese sapphire surrounded by rose cut and old cut diamonds. The brooch was sold to Ben Mellen & Sons.
Second highest
A Sapphire and Diamond Sautoir
Christie’s New York, December 13, 2011, Lot #72
$5,906,500
Estimate: $600,000 to $800,000
A cabochon Burmese sapphire weighing 52.72 carats, set in a diamond and sapphire pendant. Neckchain by Bulgari. A gift from Richard Burton for Elizabeth Taylor’s fortieth birthday.
Third highest
A Sapphire and Diamond Necklace
Sotheby’s New York, October 26, 1989, Lot #58
$3,520,000
Estimate: $1.5 million to $2 million
A Van Cleef & Arpels necklace, from the collection of Luz Mila Patino, the Countess du Boisrouvray. Five emerald cut and cushion-shaped sapphires ranging from 10.96 carats to 36 carats were set with 170 diamonds with a total weight of 36 carats.
EMERALD BY CARAT PRICE
Top lot
Bulgari Emerald Pendant Brooch
Christie’s New York, December 13, 2011, #29
$6,578,500
$280,000 per carat
Estimate: $500,000 to $700,000
A 23.46-carat rectangular cut Colombian emerald set within a pear-shaped diamond surround, signed Bulgari. Richard Burton gave the brooch to Elizabeth Taylor on their engagement in 1962.
Second highest
Muzo Emerald Ring
Sotheby’s Geneva, November 15, 2011, Lot #467
$1,440,219
$119,918 per carat
Estimate: $400,000 to $600,000
A very fine 12.01-carat hexagonal-shaped Colombian emerald from the Muzo mine was set in a ring with kite-shaped diamonds and spessartite garnets.
Third highest
Emerald Ring
Christie’s Hong Kong, May 2, 2000, Lot #1571
$1,149,850
$113,733 per carat
Estimate: $800,000 to $1.2 million
A rectangular cut emerald weighing 10.11 carats set in an 18-karat white gold gentleman’s ring. The SSEF certificate stated the intensely saturated emerald shows no indication of clarity enhancement.
SINGLE PEARL
Top lot
La Peregrina
Christie’s New York, December 13, 2011, Lot #12
$11,842,500
Estimate: $2 million to $3 million
The historic La Peregrina, a natural pearl drop weighing 202.24 grains, can be traced back to the era of Spanish King Philip II in the sixteenth century. It was purchased by Richard Burton for Elizabeth Taylor at Parke-Bernet Galleries in New York on January 23, 1969. In 1972, she had it transformed by Cartier into a necklace set with cultured pearls, rubies and numerous diamonds.
Second highest
La Perle Napoléon
Christie’s Geneva, November 16, 2005, Lot #354
$2,516,360
Estimate: $532,000 to $837,000
La Perle Napoléon, also known as La Régente. An oval drop-shaped natural saltwater pearl weighing 302.68 grains, capped by a mounting of silver and gold that was set with old cut diamonds. The pearl was sold to an Asian private. It can be traced back to the French Crown Jewels and was previously sold at the same venue on May 12, 1988 for $859,100.
Third highest
The Luna Pearl Ring
Christie’s Hong Kong, November 28, 2007, Lot #2323
$945,295
Estimate: $516,000 to $775,000
The Luna pearl ring, set with a button-shaped pearl measuring 2.15-21.45 x 15.25 mm, was named by the consignor for its association with the glow of moonshine.
EMERALD BY TOTAL PRICE
Top lot
Bulgari Emerald Pendant Brooch
Christie’s New York, December 13, 2011, #29
$6,578,500
Estimate: $500,000 to $700,000
A 23.46-carat rectangular cut Colombian emerald set within a pear-shaped diamond surround, signed Bulgari. Richard Burton gave the brooch to Elizabeth Taylor on their engagement in 1962.
Second highest
Emerald Ear Pendants
Christie’s Hong Kong, November 29, 2011, Lot #2724
$4,036,318
Estimate: $2 million to $3 million
A pair of cushion-shaped Colombian emeralds, weighing 25.38 carats and 23.12 carats, set a world record for a pair of emerald ear pendants. Bought by an Asian private.
Third highest
Cartier Emerald Necklace
Sotheby's New York, October 26, 1989, Lot #65
$3,080,000
Estimate: $1.5 million to $2 million
An emerald and diamond necklace made by Cartier, London, 1937, from the collection of Luz Mila Patino, the Countess du Boisrouvray, comprising 12 large emeralds spaced by pairs of old European cut diamonds.
LOT OF PEARLS
Top lot
The Baroda Pearls
Christie’s New York, April 25, 2007, Lot #262
$7,096,000
Estimate: $6 million to $8 million
The lot comprises a two-strand natural pearl necklace of 68 graduated pearls, a brooch set with an oval natural pearl, a ring set with a button pearl weighing approximately 87.72 grains and a pair of ear pendants, set with natural drop-shaped pearls weighing approximately 124.40 grains and 125.60 grains. The lot was the property of an Indian family of maharajas and was sold to an Asian private.
Second highest
The Gulf Pearl Parure
Christie’s Geneva, November 14, 2006, Lot #316
$4,189,320
Estimate: $4.2 million to $6.3 million
The lot comprises four pieces of natural pearl jewelry containing a total of 193 pearls: a fringe necklace suspending 11 drop-shaped pearls from an elaborate diamond and pearl necklace, a fringe bracelet, ear pendants and a ring. All four pieces are marked Jacques Timey for Harry Winston. From the collection of a royal house, sold to the European trade.
Third highest
Natural Pearl Necklace
Sotheby’s New York, December 4, 2007, Lot #364
$3,625,000
Estimate: $1.5 million to $2 million
A single strand of 28 very large natural pearls graduating in size from 9.2 mm to 16.8 mm. The necklace is completed by an oval clasp set with two emerald cut and two fancy shape diamonds, totaling 3 carats, and signed Cartier, Paris. From the collection of Kelly and Calvin Klein, formerly from the collection of the Duchess of Windsor.
TIARA
Top lot
Antique Emerald and Diamond Tiara
Sotheby’s Geneva, May 17, 2011, Lot #443
$12,736,927
Estimate: $5 million to $10 million
The tiara is formed as a crown. The base is set with 11 large cushion-shaped diamonds, and numerous small diamonds topped by 11 polished pear-shaped Colombian emeralds, totaling approximately 500 carats, graduated in size. The emerald drops were said to be from the French Crown Jewels. Formerly in the collection of Princess Katharina Henckel von Donnersmarck and first offered at auction at Sotheby’s Zurich in 1979.
Second highest
Diamond, Pearl and Ruby Crown
Christie’s Geneva, November 16, 2005, Lot #353
$6,138,440
Estimate: $3.7 million to $5.3 million
An opulent tall crown set with 46 variously cut white diamonds and yellow diamonds ranging in size from 2.21 carats to 45.27 carats, as well as 564.75 carats of oval and cushion-shaped rubies, topped by natural pearl drop finials and a row of pearls at the base. Sold to the American trade.
Third highest
The Mike Todd Diamond Tiara
Christie’s New York, December 13, 2011, Lot #79
$4,226,500
Estimate: $60,000 to $80,000
An antique diamond tiara set with old mine cut diamonds in a latticework design, mounted in platinum and yellow gold, circa 1880. A gift to Elizabeth Taylor from Mike Todd in 1957.
JADEITE
Top lot
Single-strand Jadeite Necklace
Christie’s Hong Kong, November 6, 1997, Lot #2843
$9,394,566
Estimate: $7 million to $10 million
Single-strand jadeite necklace comprising 27 beads measuring 15.09 mm to 15.84 mm, formerly the property of a Burmese collector. The lot was sold to a private.
Second highest
Single-strand Jadeite Necklace
Christie’s Hong Kong, June 1, 2010, Lot #2488
$7,303,791
Estimate: $6.4 million to $10 million
A single-strand jadeite bead necklace comprising 51 jadeite beads of even, vivid emerald green color measuring from 9.80 mm to 11.18 mm, with an 8.80-carat star ruby clasp.
Third highest
Single-strand Jadeite Necklace
Sotheby’s Hong Kong, April 7, 2010, Lot #1457
$5,567,168
Estimate: $4.9 million to $6.4 million
A single-strand jadeite necklace comprising 35 beads measuring from 12.55 mm to 15.04 mm. with a clasp set with diamonds and signed Cartier. The jadite beads were described as highly translucent, vivid emerald green in color, with fine texture.
CARTIER
Top lot
La Peregrina
Christie’s New York, December 13, 2011, Lot #12
$11,842,500
Estimate: $2 million to $3 million
The historic La Peregrina, a natural pearl drop weighing 202.24 grains, can be traced back to the era of Spanish King Philip II in the sixteenth century. It was purchased by Richard Burton for Elizabeth Taylor at Parke-Bernet Galleries in New York on January 23, 1969. In 1972, she had it transformed by Cartier into a necklace set with cultured pearls, rubies and numerous diamonds.
Second highest
Cartier Panther Bracelet
Sotheby’s London, November 30, 2010, Lot #19
$7,036,874
Estimate: $1.5 million to $2.3 million
An onyx and diamond panther bracelet by Cartier, 1952, originally from the collection of the Duchess of Windsor. The articulated body is made to curve around the wrist. The piece is pavé-set with round and single cut diamonds and calibré cut onyx, with emerald eyes.
Third highest
Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet
Christie’s Hong Kong, June 1, 2010, Lot #2388
$6,915,624
Estimate: $3.1 million to $5.1 million
Nine graduated cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphires weighing a total of 49.61 carats alternate with marquise cut diamonds in a bracelet by Cartier, circa 1960.
HARRY WINSTON
Top lot
Diamond Necklace
Christie’s London, June 11, 2008, Lot #228
$7,083,739
Estimate: $3.5 million to $4.3 million
A necklace set with a 38-carat pear-shaped diamond suspended from marquise cut diamonds, made by Jacques Timey for Harry Winston. From the collection of Christina Onassis, it was sold to a Middle Eastern private.
Second highest
Diamond Pendant Earrings
Sotheby’s Hong Kong, April 6, 2011, Lot #1829
$4,823,077
Estimate: $4.1 million to $4.8 million
A pair of diamond pendant earrings set with DIF pear shapes weighing 14.42 carats and 14.04 carats suspended from two smaller DIF pear shapes, each weighing exactly 4.01 carats.
Third highest
Diamond Necklace
Sotheby’s New York, April 14, 1994, Lot #533
$4,402,500
Estimate: $4 million to $5 million
The diamond necklace by Harry Winston is the property of a private collector. The V-shaped cascade necklace is set with ten large pear-shaped diamonds weighing a total of 44.65 carats, 38 marquise-shaped diamonds totaling 34.93 carats and 85 round diamonds weighing 59.74 carats.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Top lot
Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond Ring
Sotheby’s Hong Kong, October 6, 2010, Lot #1990
$7,738,379
Estimate: $6 million to $7 million
Rectangular modified round cut fancy vivid pink VS2 type IIa diamond weighing 6.43 carats, set in a ring by Van Cleef & Arpels.
Second highest
Ruby and Diamond Ring
Christie’s New York, December 13, 2011, Lot #77
$4,226,500
Estimate: $1 million to $1.5 million
An oval cut 8.24-carat Burmese ruby set in a ring with a round diamond surround by Van Cleef & Arpels. The ring was a gift from Richard Burton to Elizabeth Taylor for Christmas 1968. Sold to a U.S. private.
Third highest
Sapphire and Diamond Necklace
Sotheby’s New York, October 26, 1989, Lot #58
$3,520,000
Estimate: $1.5 million to $2 million
A sapphire and diamond necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, from the collection of Luz Mila Patino, the Countess du Boisrouvray, with four Kashmir and one Sri Lankan sapphires ranging in weight from 10.96 carats to 36 carats, set with round, marquise-shaped and baguette diamonds totaling 36 carats.
JAR
Top lot
Diamond ‘Thread’ Ring
Christie’s New York, October 10, 2006, Lot #102
$1,808,000
Estimate: $800,000 to $1.2 million
Diamond ‘thread’ ring by JAR is set with a D,VVS1 elongated oval cut diamond weighing 22.76 carats. From the collection of Ellen Barkin, sold to an American private.
Second highest
Pair of Ear Pendants
Christie’s Geneva, November 18, 1998, Lot #711
$1,630,000
Estimate: $450,000 to $550,000
A pair of diamond and natural pearl ear pendants by JAR set with a 6.68-carat pear-shaped fancy deep blue VS1 diamond and a 5.71-carat pear-shaped E, VVS2 diamond. From the estate of Jacqueline Delubac.
Third highest
Pair of Diamond Bangles
Christie’s New York, October 10, 2006, Lot #100
$1,136,000
Estimate: $350,000 to $500,000
Pair of diamond and faint pink diamond bangles by JAR. From the collection of Ellen Barkin, sold to an American private.
TIFFANY & CO.
Top lot
Diamond Pendant Necklace
Sotheby’s New York, December 9, 2010, Lot #479
$3,666,500
Estimate: $3.2 million to $3.8 million
A DIF type IIa diamond pendant necklace by Tiffany & Co. centering a rectangular-shaped diamond weighing 27.19 carats. The pendant detaches to be worn as a brooch.
Second highest
The Rockefeller Sapphire
Christie’s New York, April 11, 2001, Lot #435
$3,031,000
Estimate: $3 million to $5 million
A 62.02-carat Burmese rectangular cut sapphire, formerly in the collection of John D. Rockefeller, set in a ring by Tiffany &. Co. Purchased by an Asian private.
Third highest
A Diamond Ring
Sotheby’s New York, December 5 & 6, 1988, Lot #468
$1,705,000
Estimate: $900,000 to $1 million
A ring by Tiffany & Co. set with a rectangular-shaped D, VS2 diamond weighing 29.30 carats. The stone is flanked by two triangular-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 2.45 carats, in a fitted box stamped Tiffany & Co.
BULGARI
Top lot
The Bulgari Blue
Christie’s New York, October 20, 2010, Lot #448
$15,762,500
Estimate: $12 million to $15 million
Property of a private collector, The Bulgari Blue, a 10.95-carat triangular-shaped vivid blue diamond, is set in a ring with a 9.87-carat triangular cut G, VS1 diamond.
Second highest
Bulgari Emerald Pendant Brooch
Christie’s New York, December 13, 2011, #29
$6,578,500
Estimate: $500,000 to $700,000
A 23.46-carat rectangular cut Colombian emerald set within a pear-shaped diamond surround, signed Bulgari. Richard Burton gave the brooch to Elizabeth Taylor on their engagement in 1962.
Third highest
Bulgari Emerald and Diamond Necklace
Christie’s New York, December 13, 2011, Lot #28
$6,130,500
Estimate: $1 million to $1.5 million
A dramatic necklace set with 16 square and rectangular cut emeralds, 15 of them Colombian and one classified as Sandawana, each emerald surrounded by round diamonds. A gift from Richard Burton to Elizabeth Taylor upon their marriage in 1964.
SINGLE OWNER SALE
Highest total
The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor, Christie’s New York, December 13 and 14, 2011. This 270-lot three-session event captured a global audience for the exquisite gems and jewelry, as well as the beauty and personality of the actress who amassed the pieces. Thanks to her absolute love of jewelry and the generosity of her husbands, she acquired the very best colored stones and the rarest of jewels.
The sale was 100 percent sold by lot, with each lot fought over in long, drawn-out bidding sessions. The evening sale alone took four and a half hours to hammer down 80 lots. At the end of the two-day event, the sale totaled $137,235,675, a figure likely to stand for many years. All of the sale proceeds went to Elizabeth Taylor’s trust.
Second highest total
The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, Sotheby’s Geneva, April 2 and 3, 1987. This 304-lot sale was a landmark at the time and remained so for more than two decades, until the Elizabeth Taylor sale in 2011. It earned $50,281,887 for a collection of the finest signed jewels and memorabilia belonging to the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. The sale had been estimated to bring about $11 million.
Third highest total
Private collection from a Royal House, Christie’s Geneva, November 14, 2006. The sale totaled $31,360,932; the estimate was $22 million. Filled with brand-name jewelry, it was topped by the four-piece Gulf Pearl Parure that alone sold for more than $4 million.
Article from the Rapaport Magazine - February 2012. To subscribe click here.