RAPAPORT...
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Harry Winston
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Approximately 104,300 visitors from around the world
descended on BaselWorld 2012 from March 8 to 15 to view the latest, most
exciting unveilings by jewelry, loose-gem and watch exhibitors. The atmosphere
at this year’s fair was upbeat and attitudes — for the first time in years —
were positive. Retail attendance was strong, with key American buyers making
the rounds. Among those at the show: large U.S. specialty stores, such as Saks
Fifth Avenue and Tourneau, as well as a host of independent jewelers.
DIAMONDS IN DEMAND
Most of the diamond dealers and diamond jewelry brands
exhibiting reported increases in orders of anywhere from 10 percent to 25
percent, while those who saw less business transacted noted that shoppers who
didn’t buy in Basel showed strong interest in continuing talks at the upcoming
shows in Las Vegas. “We were selling a lot of colored diamonds, and more
sporty, chic diamond jewelry,” said Eve Goldberg, of New York City–based
William Goldberg, adding that “It is time to make diamonds more fun.” Indeed,
Goldberg noted that a white gold bangle with fancy cut diamonds that could
easily go from day to night was one of the company’s best sellers at the show.
She also stated that buyers seemed particularly interested in large fancy color
diamonds, in such colors as brown and orange, most likely because they are
easier to sell as large-ticket items. The average sale in these diamonds for
William Goldberg was about $15,000 at the show.
Other exhibitors also noticed the attention being paid to
multicolored diamond designs, including bangle bracelets containing powerful
mixtures of diamonds in a variety of colors. Additionally, fancy-shaped
diamonds were in higher demand. At Manak Jewels, based in San Francisco, where
natural fancy color diamonds are key, pear shapes and marquise cuts enjoyed
particular popularity. Diamond hues that stole the limelight were predominantly
yellow and brown. Similarly, at L.J. West, based in New York City, yellow
diamonds and pink Argyle diamonds were most popular.
Demand for diamond sizes at the show seemed to vary. New
York City’s Emco was displaying oval brilliant yellow diamonds of 10 carats, on
average, and said demand was strong for intense fancy pink diamonds that
averaged 3.5 carats. The company also showed some beautiful, colorless diamond
necklaces combining fancy-shaped, pear cut diamonds. For Israel-based A.A.
Rachimov, cushion and square cuts were the highlight, in sizes ranging from 4
carats to 8 carats on average. Of course, there were some impressive
showstoppers, too, with brands such as Belgium’s Pluczenik showcasing a $6
million pair of matching diamond earrings, each weighing precisely 15.28
carats.
Jacob & Co. of New York City unveiled some stunning new
floral ring designs with impressive center stones of blue or yellow diamonds
surrounded by pink and colorless diamonds. One ring, valued at $18 million,
showcased a 17-carat blue intense flawless diamond surrounded by vivid pink
diamonds in a shimmering masterpiece. Other beauties included an 18.5-carat
orange-pink diamond set as a center stone, and a 75-carat briolette waiting to
be set. “We keep all the big sizes in stock as well as the small sizes. I shop
everywhere to get the vivid colors because there is such a shortage of big,
rare colored diamonds,” said Jacob Arabov of Jacob & Co. “This is what
consumers want today in big diamonds — something uniquely different.”
TRENDS
The trend toward fancy colors and fancy shapes was
consistent not only in the diamond halls, but also in the finished jewelry
displayed by individual designers and big brands alike. Key words both buyers
and sellers used in describing this year’s trends include innovation, airy
designs, a return to nature and color.
According to Jay Mednikow, owner and president of Mednikow
Jewelers in Memphis, “The most important items in Basel are the one-of-a-kind
items, so I go with an open mind. My first stop in Basel is always Hall 3 —
predominantly the diamond hall — where I scout for the individual items.”
Mednikow said he was seeking special, impressive pieces at the show for his
store because it is expanding this year.
Many of the most impressive designs at Basel in 2012 came in
the form of color, Indian-inspired motifs, floral and animal themes. Pavé
diamond settings remain the strongest player in lower price ranges and for
certain designs, but the aforementioned fancy cuts and colors were also very
visible, particularly in the Indian-inspired and floral and vine designs. A
number of exhibitors showcased stunning animal and insect motifs — ranging from
sculpted diamond-adorned tigers, lions and other animals to eagles,
hummingbirds and other birds.
Even in watches, diamonds took center stage, sometimes
offset by colored gemstones. Harry Winston unveiled a dazzling convertible
necklace and brooch watch, named Ultimate Adornment (shown above), which
transformed mega-carats of fancy-shaped diamonds into a floral beauty. The
legendary French house of Boucheron released the Cypris Tourbillon watch, a
swan cuff bracelet watch created entirely of diamonds and gemstones. A
magnificent creation, the head and feathers of the bird wrap around the watch
dial and form the finished cuff extraordinaire.
ANTICIPATION
Next year, BaselWorld 2013 is slated for a six-week-later
date of April 25 to May 2, due to construction being done to overhaul and
expand the buildings. The much-anticipated opening of the new halls is expected
to bring even more traffic and greater brand visibility. Sylvie Ritter,
managing director of BaselWorld, said that both show management and exhibitors
have “great expectations for the new era that will be dawning for this world
show. I am delighted that BaselWorld 2013 will confirm the excellence of the
industry presented here.”
Article from the Rapaport Magazine - April 2012. To subscribe click here.