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| Alishan |
Art and design reflect the world that we live in, and there
can be no doubt that these are turbulent times. The economic nosedive of the
past few years — and the uncertainty that has come with it — has greatly
influenced jewelry design. Consumers have wanted to be more understated and
less flashy in their jewelry choices and designers have needed to keep price
points as appealing as their creations look. As a result, more silver is being
used. Creativity always rules and savvy jewelry designers addressed the times
by blackening silver to add a whole new dimension to their pieces while at the
same time keeping their jewelry wallet friendly.
Up until the past couple of years, blackened silver jewelry
was pretty much the exclusive domain of rockers, bikers and Goth girls.
However, Oliver Smith, designer and owner of the store Oliver Smith Jeweler in
Scottsdale, Arizona, points out that black jewelry was historically important
in another era: “Mourning jewelry in the Victorian days was black and it was
part of their fashion. Things cycle around and now black jewelry is back, with
a twist for our times.”
Fast forward to 2012 and blackened silver jewelry comes in
such a wide range of styles that there is something for everyone from teens to
grannies. The look resonates with the trendsetter who always wants to be first
with something different, as well as with the more traditional, conservative person
who is branching out to try something new.
“People wear a piece of jewelry not because it is
blackened,” says Alishan Halebian, designer of the Irvine, California–based
firm Alishan. “They wear a piece because it is attractive and black is part of
the design. The black background allows you to construct on top of it by adding
textures and colors to create contrast and dimensionality.”
For contemporary designers, blackening jewelry is all about
creating fabulous style. “I love the contrast of the black on silver,” says New
York City–based designer Annie Fensterstock, who creates jewelry under her
name. “Blackened silver has a great look. It’s casual, but edgy; you can dress
it up or dress it down.”
Designer Catherine Iskiw of Catherine Iskiw Designs in
Brooklyn, New York, also likes the contrast of silver and black. “Blackened
metal adds drama to a piece so easily with the contrast against nonblackened
metal or gemstones. Blackening metal adds another element to the design.”
Turkish-born designer Alp Sagnak, who has a store, Atelier
Minyon, in New York City’s Soho neighborhood, creates very sculptural jewelry.
He believes that blackening metal adds dimensionality to a piece. “Blackening
silver makes it more three dimensional. It allows you to give shadings to a
piece to show texture or details because of the contrast. It adds romance.”
Blackening silver is usually done in one of two ways: by
dipping the metal into a liver of sulfur solution or by plating it with black
rhodium. Iskiw explains that “whichever method is used, the blackening will
appear darker and adhere better on a surface with more texture.”
Halebian adds that blackening silver is a time-consuming,
exacting process. “When you use a liver-sulfur solution, it’s a long process.
The water temperature has to be a certain level, the solution-to-water ratio
has to be correct. Then you have to give the piece a finish. It’s very labor
intensive.”
It’s wise to treat blackened jewelry with tender loving
care. “Matte black will wear and
you have to be comfortable with that,” says
Iskiw. “You can get a piece rhodium-plated again, but first you have to take
off the original rhodium and replate the piece or the finish will be uneven.”
But the wear is also part of the beauty of the piece. “As it
fades, it becomes its own look,” comments Halebian.
Still, it is advisable to store blackened jewelry pieces
carefully. When putting the piece in your jewelry box, it is best to keep it in
its own pouch to avoid scraping against other pieces and scratching the finish.
“Don’t put the jewelry in your change purse while you are out,” says Smith, who
finds that most blackened pieces that get scratched up were mistreated after an
evening of partying, when the piece is thrown into a change purse with a bunch
of coins for “safekeeping.”
Diamonds look extra special in blackened silver — whether
white or color, the diamonds get more pop. “Black is such a good background
color. You can use a lot of color with it, you can use opaque or brown diamonds
and they pop. You can also use any quality of diamonds,” adds Smith, who notes
that to take full advantage of the contrast between the diamonds and the metal,
it is best to leave some space between the stones.
Halebian finds that the world of diamonds opens up for him
when he uses blackened silver. “My repertoire in diamonds expands. Instead of
basic white, I can use rose cuts, opaque and colors of diamonds; it creates a
different look. It creates another understanding of what a diamond is. The 4Cs
don’t matter anymore; it’s about the color combination.”
“Putting diamonds in blackened silver creates a really
strong contrast and really highlights the diamonds,” says Fensterstock. “It
gives the diamonds a less formal, more everyday feel. Diamonds become more of a
design element than the central focus of the piece.”
Blackened silver jewelry looks just right with today’s
fashions that are brimming with color and patterns. Shimmering with diamonds or
accented with gold, blackened silver holds its own when paired with brights or
accompanying the animal prints that are prowling wardrobes everywhere. It
redefines the meaning of jewelry with dramatic impact in a fresh, contemporary
way.
Article from the Rapaport Magazine - October 2012. To subscribe click here.