Rapaport Magazine

Designer Lines

By Amber Michelle
A one-of-a-kind handcrafted sensibility was a key element in jewelry designs found at the NY NOW show held at Javits Center in New York City. The overall trends for jewelry at this show were pieces with a handmade feeling, tribal flair, minimalist modern, vintage and eco-friendly. Opaque diamonds and rose cuts were popular choices for designers. Julie Romanenko, designer for Just Jules, launched a collection of bridal featuring opaque diamonds or rose-cut diamonds in settings created from antique bar pins, a nice alternative for brides who want something distinctive that is not too blingy. Ila&i showcased opaque gray diamonds in vintage-with-a-Mughal-twist inspired jewelry. The collection also featured blue sapphires and emeralds. Jennifer Dawes at Dawes Design showed some new diamond rings that use ethically sourced diamonds and metals. She also continues to highlight opaque diamonds in her jewelry. Delphine Leymarie has sprinkled her signature heartbeat pieces with diamonds and introduced a chunky gold snake ring with diamond accents. LMc Private Label, a firm based in New York City’s West Village, focused on vintage diamonds set in recycled gold with a Victorian influence. Barbara Heinrich brought her luxurious, highly detailed diamond and gold jewelry to the mix. San Francisco–based Rebecca Overmann debuted a new spin on the diamond solitaire necklace with a single diamond bead on a chain — delicate, feminine and very wearable.
Elizabeth Garvin bowed the Cyclone series of one-of-a-kind rings that wrap like a ribbon on the finger and have an off-shape opaque diamond as a focal point. Cynthia Gale put the spotlight on her DharmaChakra collection based on the Wheel of Transformation, one of the oldest Buddhist motifs in spiritual art. The oxidized silver jewelry is highly detailed with an ethnic feeling and the pieces have components that move like a wheel. Metalsmith Sarah McGuire, in from Chicago, offered her contemporary, minimalist pieces accented with diamonds. Suzy Landa brought in a new collection of cabochon aquamarine jewelry with diamond accents. The lush blue opaque gems had been cut especially for Landa’s collection from a large hunk of aquamarine that she had acquired. Many other designers were featuring colored gemstone jewelry that has a unique artisan direction, crafted in smaller sizes for stacking or layering.

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - March 2014. To subscribe click here.

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