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A Case For Custom
Diamonds and gemstones are on display in the art gallery ambience of Naifeh Fine Jewelry in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma.
By Joyce Kauf
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| Naifeh Fine Jewelry |
You don’t get many light bulb moments in your life, but the first time I sat at a bench carving a gold wedding band was certainly one,” says Valerie Naifeh, recalling how a fortuitous apprenticeship set her on her career path. “Within 30 minutes, I knew this was what I love.” She continues to channel that passion and skill every day as owner of Naifeh Fine Jewelry in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, known for its custom work, Naifeh Design and designer jewelry.
Naifeh was studying fine arts and English literature at the University of Tulsa when one of her art professors arranged an apprenticeship with Ann Garrett, a local jeweler. Naifeh continued to work for her after graduation and credits Garrett with introducing her to buying gemstones and pearls and to custom design. “I was so fortunate to have traveled to Asia and Europe and been exposed to different styles of jewelry design,” says Naifeh. In 1998, she leased 150 square feet of space at Balliets, a prestige women’s store in Oklahoma City.
Prompted by her success with just “two little cases,” Naifeh decided to open her own store in 2002. Her existing clients played a key role in determining the location. “I wanted something central, but also a place where my core clientele did not have to drive too far.” She selected Nichols Hills, an affluent area that was also in close proximity to three exclusive private schools. “People driving their children to school would see the store. This was very important since I went from a location with built-in traffic to having to attract customers on my own,” Naifeh explains.
Naifeh took a strategic approach to creating a “very specific niche,” focusing on custom design. “My retail philosophy goes hand in hand with my business model. We try not to be all things to all people. First and foremost, I am a bench jewelry designer,” she emphasizes. However, by her own admission, Naifeh did not have much exposure to diamonds early in her career. She enrolled in the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and eventually went on to win the De Beers Diamonds Today Award twice, first for her mother of pearl, diamond and onyx triton shell brooch and then for her hematite, diamond and platinum-beaded bracelet.
“The custom design business has carried us through. It is really impervious to economic ups and downs,” says Naifeh. Consisting of working with customers who want to update their jewelry or recycle a family diamond, custom has been the “backbone” of her business. She admits, however, that bridal presented a “tough learning curve.”
When Naifeh ran the leased department, her customers frequently asked why she didn’t carry engagement rings because they would gladly recommend family and friends. “I thought, ‘if I build it, they would come.’ I was a bit naïve,” she confesses. She eventually realized that her reputation for custom design and fine jewelry did not extend to bridal. “We had not created trust or set ourselves up as an expert in the area,” she points out. She added two graduate gemologists to her staff. “With the internet, people — especially men — are more knowledgeable about diamonds and we needed to be able to answer their most difficult questions about diamonds.” Naifeh also got very “aggressive,” placing an ad every week in the free local newspaper, The Gazette, which targets the 18- to 40-year-old demographic.
Naifeh introduced her own line, Naifeh Design, which consists of pearls, diamonds and gemstones set in high-karat gold or platinum. However, recognizing that “it does not make economic sense to create everything,” Naifeh added a carefully curated selection of designer jewelry. Her main criterion is finding designers “who cannot be shopped elsewhere.” Joshua J., JudeFrances, Armenta and Temple St. Clair are among her top designers. Earrings and rings — especially the right-hand ring — are most popular, followed by pendants and necklaces.
“I’m a firm believer that fine jewelry is an art and should be displayed as art with gemstones,” says Naifeh. The 4,000-square-foot store combines the ambience of an art gallery and a SoHo, New York City, loft — although Naifeh points out, “warmer and more inviting.” Recessed lighting imparts a polished glow on the custom-made glazed maple display cases and floor. Suspended from the ceiling, wood display cases with posters of jewelry look out onto the street. Two large, Art Deco–style mustard-colored armchairs framed by a brick wall create a comfortable sitting area. The store is divided into two separate sections — bridal and fashion alley. Bridal consists of three long curved cases; a fourth case at the end is dedicated to JudeFrances, while the other designers are showcased in fashion alley.
Naifeh’s merchandising technique varies from the more formal style of showcasing by gemstone, as in the case of emeralds, rubies and sapphires, to the eclectic of mixing high and low. “I might take a Temple St. Clair amulet on an 18-karat chain and display it next to a blackened silver Armenta chain with black diamonds,” she notes.
“My customer is sophisticated and well traveled. I can’t stop her from shopping anywhere in the world, but I can create a destination for the most unique merchandise in the state. And I can create an environment where people feel at home,” says Naifeh. “Friendliness may be cliché, but we’re there for whatever they need — whether it’s a battery replacement or a six-figure diamond. It’s all about happiness and we live and breathe it.”Article from the Rapaport Magazine - May 2015. To subscribe click here.
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