Rapaport Magazine
Retail

By Women For Women

When it comes to jewelry, the women at boutique jewelry design house Gumuchian know what other women want.

By Amber Michelle
The Carousel by Gamuchian
The story starts in 1979 when Anita Gumuchian, who moved to New York City from Antwerp, realized that there was a need for jewelry in the U.S. with a European flair. She invited her two daughters, Myriam and Patricia, to join her in opening a jewelry design house. Both were in college at the time — Myriam was studying art history at Tufts University and Patricia was at Boston University majoring in Italian studies and art history — but they jumped at the chance to launch a company. When her two daughters agreed to come into the business, Anita — who had been chief financial officer (CFO) of her husband’s diamond and colored gemstone business in Antwerp — launched Gumuchian.

Woman Run
   From the beginning, the designing and the business were run by all three women, while the artisans in the workshop were all men. “The end consumer loves that the company is run by women; it makes them feel empowered,” says Myriam, who handles marketing and sales and is co-owner of the firm with her sister Patricia, who does the designing.
   Over the years, retailers who put Gumuchian jewelry in their stores kept mentioning that the jewelry “felt right.” One store owner noted that the reason was because the jewelry was “designed by women for women.” That one comment became the company’s tagline and is integral to its marketing. “Over the past several years, a lot more of our customers are women-owned stores,” explains Myriam. “They know how to sell to women, they know what women want because they can relate to the end consumer. They understand jewelry.”
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The Look
   Myriam says that retailers and consumers recognize their design aesthetic, which she describes as curvy, soft, sexy and sensual. The company offers a range of pieces, with a starting price point of under $1,000 retail ranging to over $50,000 retail.
   “We have a huge design aspect to our line. We are constantly adding new pieces to keep it fresh,” comments Myriam. “What we’ve done in the past five years is to add smaller price-point items. When we develop a collection, it can appeal to anyone from 20 years old to 80 years old.”
   Versatile pieces that can be worn in multiple ways are very successful for the company, including The Ring Cycle, a flower ring that with a couple of twists turns into a bracelet, and a necklace, from the Carousel collection, shown right, that can be worn seven different ways. Customers love this double-duty jewelry because not only does it give them different options on how to wear a piece, but also on when a piece can be worn. A quick shift can take an item from the office to a dinner party.
   Having this versatility now is particularly important, as more women are purchasing their own jewelry rather than men buying for their wives. It’s a trend that Myriam has been noticing more and more when she does a personal appearance in a store. “Women are choosing what they want to wear,” she says. “When they feel and touch our jewelry, they have a sense that it is made by women. We know what we want jewelry to do. They can feel the weight, the softness and it feels timeless and luxurious. When a piece is well made you will notice immediately.”

Personal Touch
   Partnering with their retailers is important to Myriam because it allows the firm to give the customer a deeper connection to the jewelry. “People want experiences today,” she observes. “Our retailers send their customers to our workshop so they can see how the jewelry is made. Consumers love that.”
   Personal appearances have become more and more important in the past several years. Sometimes, Myriam says, women retailers host events in their homes. “I did an event with one of our retailers where I cooked at a party in her home. Then the customers see you, a businesswoman, wife and mother.” Concludes Myriam, “When consumers see more of you as a person, they can relate to you more.”

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - October 2016. To subscribe click here.

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