Vibrant fashion accessories, often asymmetric or solo earrings, were a key look at recent runway shows by Miu Miu, Diane von Furstenberg and Sonia Rykiel. While color is easy to inject into costume jewels — bright silk cords, leather, feathers, acrylics, silicone — it can be more challenging in fine jewelry, but advances in science and consumer tastes have led to a rainbow of experimentation.
Kaleidoscopic sapphires will definitely create the burst of color this trend demands, but chromatic metals — particularly titanium — are where the real excitement lies. This non-precious metal is now in use at nearly every haute joaillerie house, from Chopard to Giampiero Bodino. Stronger than gold and lighter than platinum, it is ideal for setting diamonds, even though it is tricky to work with.
While titanium’s natural color is a silvery grey, the application of heat can transform it into a chromatic chameleon. Blues, greens, pinks, purples, or a mixture of these shades are all achievable, and the metal can serve to contrast or blend in with gemstones. More commercial options are also emerging from the likes of Diane Kordas.
Some jewelers, like Noor Fares, are experimenting with precious metals as well, applying rhodium plating to gold or tweaking alloys to create colors like grey, black, green, purple and fuchsia. Hi-tech ceramic and enamel can also be used to introduce color to fine jewelry, and are more affordable alternatives.
In a world of digital experiences, endless production lines and copycat products, there emerges a renewed respect for the authentic skill of the artisan. Jewelry is one industry that has really held on to its traditional skills, and now is an apt time to celebrate them.
Ancient crafts like filigree, millegrain, granulation, rubover settings, gold etching, enamel and gemstone carving all fit here. Alice Cicolini is a good example of a modern jeweler embracing these traditional skills, using enamel work created by one of the last Jaipuri meenakari, as well as gemstones or ebony hand-carved into floral shapes. Italian designer Amedeo, meanwhile, is leading a revival of the classic cameo, with carved portraits of pets and modern skull motifs fixed to rings, bracelets and necklaces.
Yet this trend is not just about what happens on the bench; it also shows up in the shop window, with jewels that appear to have the hallmarks of an artisan’s touch (even if this is purely aesthetic) — quirky, organic styles that look handmade, personalized elements like engravings and intricate metalwork.
Jewelry is also picking up on some of the artisanal trends in other parts of the fashion world. The most recent Dolce & Gabbana and Fendi catwalks were a temple to genuine couturier skill, with intricate lacework, fringing and embroidery. In jewelry, that has translated to designs that mimic dressmaking skills or luxe fabrics.
Catwalks have also been reacquainting themselves with the cosmos for next year — be it through an entire Thierry Mugler show dedicated to its jagged-star motif; Maison Margiela’s metallic, dystopian view of the future; or the angular shoulder pads, moon boots, burnished gold and sequin bodysuits at Jean Paul Gaultier and Atelier Versace.
Jewelry is also having a moment among the stars. Commercially, this trend has been astronomically successful and shows no sign of a descent next season. Pendants with star signs mapped out in diamonds have been hugely popular, as have crescent-moon and shooting-star motifs, and gemstone orbs masquerading as planets. Then, of course, there is the silver-knee-high-boot Barbarella vibe. While today’s space travel looks nothing like the romantic visions of the future dreamed up in the 1960s, we are no less in love with it. Silver or white gold sculptural pieces, such as cuffs and chokers, work well for this, with abstract shapes that twist and jut in unexpected ways. Geometric cage shapes created by CAD and 3D printing are a perfect blend of science and style.
Finishes may be either highly polished, or roughly textured like the surface of an asteroid. Along with the star-like twinkle of diamonds (particularly a clash between black and white, or included rough cuts), gemstones of choice include otherworldly opals, and lapis lazuli that appears to be flecked with stardust. Moonstones, too, offer a subtle shimmer.
With the rise of normcore, boyfriend jeans, athleisure and anything with a relaxed (even dropped-crotch) silhouette, dressing down has long been the new dressing up. However, the tide is shifting, and sharp, ladylike tailoring and timeless elegance once again looks fresh and new.
In recent catwalk shows, fashion designers such as Armani Prive and Gucci presented looks that were more elegant than edgy, dusting off woolen suits, nipped-in waists, frills and tulle, and modest hemlines. These styles call for a comeback of classic jewelry: simple drop earrings, necklaces that hug the collarbone, cocktail rings, diamond line bracelets.
Palettes should be kept soft and feminine. Rose gold works well for this, as do blush-toned gemstones such as pink opal, chalcedony, rose quartz and diamonds. Pearls are of particular importance, in creamy white, pink or golden shades, adorning everything from earrings to brooches, or forming classic strings around the neck. Diamonds should be kept light, in fluid shapes, and botanical themes will add a touch of romantic whimsy.
There is also a tongue-in-cheek element to this trend, as Marc Jacobs perfectly captured in his recent show populated with models in prim-and-proper fur-trimmed coats, elegant cloche hats, and chunky hip hop-inspired gold jewels. For women who want to play dress-up rather than adopt a refined look, the same rules apply — but with amplified sizes. Imagine a little girl elbow-deep in her grandmother’s jewelry box — a vision that Chanel mastered with exaggerated clip-on pearl earrings under demure hats, worn with outsized woolen suits.
Image (clockwise): Nanis, Transformista nanis.it; Alice Cicolini, Temple Lotus earrings and ring alicecicolinil.com; Muscari Jewellery Full Moon ring muscarijewellery.com; Nanis, Amarcord bracelet nanis.it; Sutra Jewels, The Angel Skin and Pink Spinel collection bangle sutrajewels.comArticle from the Rapaport Magazine - September 2017. To subscribe click here.