As a new generation comes of age, a decade that might still seem fresh for some suddenly becomes nostalgia. Fashion, music and culture have all zeroed in on the 1990s as a bubble of carefree freedom, experimentation and positive change, and the jewelry star of that decade was the choker.
Every self-respecting ’90s teen strapped a thin length of black material around their necks, and this model has made the transition to 2017 seamlessly. Along with the classic velvet and grosgrain ribbon, leather bands are giving the look a modern update, and delicate diamond charms sit at the center.
This time around, the choker is not just for teeny boppers. Runway shows from the FW17 and SS18 collections have presented the choker as an elegant accessory for both day and evening looks. For customers who might want to avoid the youthful connotations of all-black chokers, precious-metal versions offer a more grown-up alternative.
Chokers are a bold style statement, so for daytime, people may prefer to dial down the glamour. Diamond accents on precious-metal chokers, as opposed to full pavé, work well, as do chokers that appear lighter on the neck. This can be achieved by keeping widths thin, or using negative space to show off more of the neck, as archaeologist-turned-jeweler Polina Sapouna Ellis has done with gold and brown diamonds in her Tethrippon collection, inspired by the Greek statue of the same name.
Open-ended chokers in a torque style are a more relaxed take on this trend, and can give an unexpected edge to an otherwise low-key outfit. Asymmetry can play a role here with, for example, a diamond on one end and a baroque pearl on the other, as Mizuki did in its collections this year.
Some retailers have reported success with simple adjustable-length chain necklaces bearing a diamond solitaire. Wearable as a short pendant or tightened to create a subtle choker, delicate diamond necklaces like these can also be stacked to capture the hippie vibes of the 1990s. LA-based Carbon & Hyde has a diverse range of 14-karat-gold and diamond chokers, from rigid metal hoops and thin tennis-bracelet designs to soft chains jingling with charms. It styles them in stacks of as many as five, starting from high on the neck and cascading into longer pendants that hug the collarbone.
Chokers have also become a staple on the red carpet this year, with a diverse range of stars, from Nicole Kidman to Kim Kardashian, elevating their neckwear. Of course, how one wears chokers to formal events can differ from outfit to outfit, ranging from quirky twists to chin-to-chest full wattage.
Chokers are not restricted to strapless dresses; they have also been successfully matched with high necklines and feminine tuxedos, and are surprisingly versatile. For a truly show-stopping look, the formula is the same as for all red-carpet jewels: volume + carats — in other words, big chokers with loads of diamonds. Messika’s Paris est une Fête collection, which was on show at Baselworld, perfectly embodies this, with heavy-duty diamond neckwear throughout. The brand has supersized its flexible Skinny diamonds concept to create the Art Deco-inspired Flappers choker, which is both comfortable and formidable with geometric lines of round brilliant- and emerald-cut diamonds, plus a 2.06-carat emerald-cut at the center.
To create volume with less diamond content and thereby reduce the final price tag, other brands, such as Copenhagen’s Ole Lynggaard, have deferred to precious metals. Its Shooting Stars choker stretches from collarbone to just below the chin, with small diamond charms hanging from swathes of slender yellow gold chains.
Pearls can also add drama, be it in large sizes to mimic traditional strings of pearls, or as an accent. Colored gemstones, too, have a place. One of the many chokers in Sutra Jewels’ latest presentation was a thin, diamond-set, 18-karat black gold choker with a 7.50-carat Colombian emerald at its center.
While elaborate diamond chokers deliver star power to an evening look, they can also feel fussy. For younger consumers, there are more contemporary options available that still raise the style above the simpler daytime chokers. Noor Fares taps into the geometry vogue with its Akasha choker. Its scale makes it too bold for daytime wear, yet rainbow-hued, triangular gems edged by diamond-set blackened gold give it a playful edge.
Still, youth doesn’t necessarily equate to quirky. Millennial French jewelry designer Anissa Kermiche created a capsule collection of chokers for Net-a-Porter this summer, and the result is a cool but elegant style that plays with circles and negative space while incorporating classic combinations of gold, diamonds and white pearls.
Image (clockwise): Noor Fares, Fly Me To The Moon Wing chocker noorfares.com; Djula, Cleveland gold and diamond chocker djula.fr; Anissa Kermiche, gold, pearl and diamond chocker anissakermiche.com; Sutra Jewels, Rose Cute and Rose Gold collection sutrajewels.com; Diane Kordas, black leather star chain chocker dianekordasjewellery.comArticle from the Rapaport Magazine - October 2017. To subscribe click here.