Name: Anna Hu
Company: Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie
anna-hu.com
Can you tell us about the extraordinary jewels you presented at the Biennale in Paris in September?
As this year is the transition of my journey into the 10th anniversary of my career, I’d like to take the audience back to the time tunnel and see where I began. All pieces I presented at the Biennale this time showcase the best essence from my first book, Symphony of Jewels: OPUS 1, surrounded by the theme of Eastern art, literature and culture. The pieces are more in the vein of metaphorical representations of experiences, and each piece is painstakingly crafted with the highest-quality materials that come with a story.
How would you describe your creative process?
When I start my creation process, I like to indulge myself in my own world of imagination to associate the things I see with the way I’d like to interpret them.
After design rendering is done, I spend time playing with colors by combining different stone layouts. I have a strong sense of colors, and I always believe in my gut feelings on how to make the most harmonious color combination. After I finalize the stone layout for my creations, I will bring my ideas and rendering to the workshops to discuss with the artisans. Most of my pieces are created in my French workshops, while some of them are created by French artisans based in New York. They are all well-seasoned artisans who have been working for big jewelry houses for years. What I like about my French workshops is that every time I visit the workshops, I feel so touched by how those artisans pay close attention to every detail — from 3D computerized simulation of where to set each stone, waxing, molding, actual stone-setting, polishing, engraving. You can see how they don’t let go of any step, and how they treat my work with respect. It’s always been a beautiful symphony that is mutually orchestrated by both the artisans and myself.
What inspires you most?
Nature and music are the two most important elements that inspire me the most. For me, every color that I use in my creations can be linked to a classical symphony that is composed by my favorite musicians. Every time I create, I always visualize myself in a certain natural environment that puts me in the right mood. For example, when I created my Siren’s Aria Collection, I would imagine myself deep-diving in the ocean, like a fish enjoying its carefree underwater life.
What’s the difference between working with diamonds and with colored gemstones?
When I work with diamonds, I love to play with and combine different cuts in my design and stone layout. The shape of different diamond cuttings not only complements the design of my creation, offering more liveliness, but also composes a beautiful reflection of lights, giving the creation the best [of the stones’ brilliance]. On the other hand, when I work with colored gemstones, I use them as my pigments to create art. Working with colored gemstones is just like how those Impressionist artists work with oil colors. It’s like my color palette, offering me tons of imagination to create the most beautiful jewels in the world.
What’s your favorite personal item of jewelry?
Every one of my jewelry creations is unique and special to me, so it’s really hard to pick a favorite. But the most meaningful and personal piece of jewelry to me is definitely my one-of-a-kind creation, the Monet Water Lilies necklace. It not only means so much to me, but also symbolizes the start of my journey. I was inspired by Claude Monet’s “Water Lilies” paintings during my visit to the Giverny Garden, when I finally made the decision to start my own namesake brand. It’s a very special and meaningful moment for me, as that is where everything started. And instead of using oil paints, I used beautiful gemstones that my father gave me to create this beautiful piece and pay my respects to Impressionism. This Monet Water Lilies necklace would always be the heart and soul of my brand.
What do you see as a big trend in magnificent jewelry for 2018?
One-of-a-kind creation is still what every high-net-worth client is seeking. Exclusivity and storytelling are still very important to this clientele. Other than this, I’d say an innovation of materials used for magnificent jewels, as well as a progression of complexity in these creations (in terms of being multi-functional), would still be the trend for 2018, as clients nowadays are constantly looking for lighter jewels which they can wear in different ways.
Image (clockwise): Artemis Butterfly brooch pendant; Athena Siren Aria brooch pendant in tanzanite; designer Anna Hu wearing her favorite piece of jewelry, the Monet Water Lilies necklace; Snake Ying Yang bangle.Article from the Rapaport Magazine - October 2017. To subscribe click here.