Can you tell us about your latest collection?My latest bridal collection, Adstrum, was inspired by classic diamonds updated for the modern woman using my signature geometric cuts. I use angular halos/borders and side stones to change the shape of the central stone and create something elegant, but with an edge.
What are your sources of inspiration? My work is very geometric, so I love looking at architecture and following the clean lines of buildings for inspiration. There’s an Art Deco influence in my work, but I simplify it so it’s modern and more minimal. I’m also very influenced by my environment of London, where I grew up. There’s a very relaxed elegance here which I love and try to incorporate into my own designs.
How do you work with diamonds? I have two ready-to-buy engagement-ring collections: Adstrum, which uses white, high-clarity diamonds, and Without Beginning, Without End, which is designed around one-off imperfect gray diamonds. I love working with both types of diamonds, from internally flawless to highly included “salt-and-pepper” material. I especially like mixing the two together for a balance of high-low. A huge proportion of my customers now want salt-and-pepper central diamonds because they love the uniqueness of the stone. It’s a rebellion against fitting the norm of society’s standard for a “perfect diamond.” The gray coloring of the diamonds makes them really timeless, and I love combining them with small, white diamonds for a subtle contrast.
What’s so special about creating jewelry for brides? For a lot of people, the most treasured piece of jewelry they’ll ever own is their engagement ring. It’s a huge honor to be chosen by an individual as the designer that they would want to wear for the rest of their life and create a ring with so much symbolic sentiment. I love the bespoke process, especially because it’s so creatively fulfilling to meet with a couple or individual, learn their story and then create something that they’ll treasure always. It’s a really happy time in people’s lives, and I’m very happy to be a small part of it.
Which of your creations is your favorite and why?It’s such a tough question, I feel like I’m choosing a favorite child! I think it would have to be my own engagement ring. I always wanted to design and make my own, but I was married for over a year before I actually finished it. It took a long time to find the diamond — it’s very difficult to make a choice when you see beautiful stones every day. In the end I found a 2.16-carat, icy, imperfect, asymmetrical hexagon diamond, which I just knew was the one. I loved how unusual the diamond was, and I felt like I’d never seen anything like it. Designing it was difficult, because I wanted to try so many different things. I’m contemplating redesigning the mount every 10 years so I can try out all my ideas for it.
What personal pieces of jewelry do you cherish the most? I was a big fan of Elvis growing up. His was the first album I ever bought, and while most children had clowns or magicians, I had an Elvis impersonator at my birthday party. I had a brass Elvis identity necklace I wore for years, and was heartbroken when it broke in two. Then, when I was 18, my parents presented me on my birthday with a solid-gold replica they’d had made for me of the same necklace. We’re not really a family for surprises, so it came as such a shock, and I was so touched by the thoughtfulness of it. I’ll keep it forever.
What do you see as the big jewelry trends of 2018?I try to keep away from jewelry trends, as I think it’s important for bridal jewelry to have longevity and not be seasonally based. Saying that, I have definitely noticed an increase in consumers asking for salt-and-pepper diamonds and inquiring about moissanite.
Image: Rachel Boston, bridal-jewelry designer and her collections.Article from the Rapaport Magazine - February 2018. To subscribe click here.