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Ahead of its time

Originally a luxury watch seller, Wempe embraces the modern, comfortable and feminine in its jewelry designs today.

By Joyce Kauf


Exquisite jewelry has its own language, and German-based jeweler Wempe’s pieces speak of quality, craftsmanship and innovative design. The company’s showstopper jewels have sparkled at international red carpet events; Academy Award winner Lupita Nyong’o showed off Wempe’s signature Sundance rings at this year’s British Academy Film and Television Arts (BAFTA) award ceremony in London.

“It was a seamless transition from watches to jewelry,” says Ruediger Albers, president of Wempe USA, which runs the company’s boutique in New York City. Citing the jeweler’s long history of producing and selling exceptional timepieces, he explains that “jewelry was compatible, complementary and a natural extension of our design language, [which is] rooted in our company’s strong tradition of goldsmithing.”

To each her own

CEO Kim-Eva Wempe set out to create jewelry that was distinctly identifiable. It had to be modern, feminine, comfortable and never overbearing. Wempe jewelry reflects her vision that a sparkling diamond, brilliant colored gemstone or shimmering pearl must enhance the wearer’s own personal aura.

That concept extends to the setting as well. Taking advantage of the company’s goldsmithing expertise, Wempe developed a specific shade of rose gold for its settings. That shade — the most universally flattering, based on the brand’s global retail sales — can also be customized to a woman’s skin tone.

“Jewelry should always be completely your own,” Albers emphasizes.

Cut out for innovation

The interplay between craftsmanship and technology is at the heart of the company. The Helioro line, for instance, features twisting strands of gold woven seamlessly into circles, aiming to create an image of infinity. The DreamDancer collection resembles “a flexible sculpture,” as the Wempe website puts it, with several freely movable rings entwined around one.

The company also developed the Wempe cut, a 137-facet round brilliant diamond. The company’s in-house diamond experts created the cut in conjunction with IGC Antwerp, and it became the foundation for the Splendora line of diamond jewelry. Like all Wempe diamonds, these are ethically mined and sourced.

‘Meant to be worn’

Another attribute of Wempe jewelry — possibly the result of a woman’s influence on design — is that it must be comfortable to wear. Diamond and emerald chandelier earrings must be luxurious, but also not too heavy. The Voyage collection was specifically designed with curved pieces that move together effortlessly so the bracelet does not bang against the watch on the wrist.

“Jewelry is meant to be worn. The attention to all details of design demonstrates Wempe’s emphasis on wearability, a quality that contemporary women look for in jewelry,” says Albers.

Extending its reach

Although 65% of the company’s clients in New York are male, Albers has noted a swift increase in female customers, but admits there is a “lot more ground to cover.” The company is planning a targeted advertising campaign with the goal of creating a “lifestyle brand.”

“Our design vocabulary is understood around the world,” says Albers. “Wempe jewelry speaks the universal language of infinite beauty and exceptional quality.”

Image: Wempe Jewelers

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - May 2018. To subscribe click here.

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Tags: Joyce Kauf