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Auction report & results


Swiss hits, Swiss misses

Christie’s and Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewelry auctions in Geneva bring a mix of new world records and surprise failures.

By David Brough


Christie’s: The results
   The highlight of the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale on November 14 was the Art of de Grisogono, Creation 1 — a stunning, highly publicized emerald and diamond necklace set with a rectangular-cut diamond weighing 163.41 carats. It set a world record for a D-color, flawless diamond sold at auction, fetching $33.7 million.
   The de Grisogono necklace attracted a frenzy of bidding at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues before the hammer went down on a telephone bidder who wished to remain unidentified.
   “I was a bit nervous before the auction. It’s a fantastic result,” Fawaz Gruosi, founder and creative director of de Grisogono, told reporters after the sale.
   The salesroom was packed with industry figures from around the world, including jeweler Glenn Spiro, who recently exhibited at the Biennale Paris, and dealer Oded Mansori. The auction featured 225 lots and achieved strong prices throughout the day, bringing the November total for Christie’s Geneva jewelry sales to $144.9 million, said Rahul Kadakia, the New York-based Christie’s auctioneer who led the sale. The Art of de Grisogono met expectations for such an outstanding piece of jewelry, he added.
   “The de Grisogono necklace was almost a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. We were very proud and happy to offer it for sale and to make a great price for de Grisogono,” Kadakia told Rapaport Magazine. “It is a very healthy result. At around $200,000 per carat, it is in line with where the market should be for a stone of this quality and size.”
   Other highlights of the sale included Le Grand Mazarin, a 19.07-carat, light pink diamond of royal French provenance, which was the auction’s final lot and sold for $14.5 million. Le Grand Mazarin has been in the collections of four kings, four queens, two emperors and two empresses. This was its first time going up for public auction since the sale of the French Crown Jewels in 1887, Christie’s said.
   Another Christie’s sale on November 13 saw a pendant necklace by René Lalique sell for $978,480, setting a new world record both for an Art Nouveau jewel sold at auction, and for a piece of jewelry by Lalique.
   After the November 14 auction, the glitterati of the diamond world mingled over drinks and canapes at the Four Seasons, and some went on to a lakeside de Grisogono after-party to celebrate the sale of necklace.

Sotheby’s: The results
   Sotheby’s had a mixed bag of results at its November 15 auction after the top lot — the 37.30-carat Raj Pink, the world’s largest known fancy intense pink diamond — failed to sell. Bidding for the ring at the Mandarin Oriental reached only about $14 million (CHF 14 million), falling short of the piece’s low estimate of $20 million (CHF 19.6 million).
   Two other highlight items went unsold as well: the Donnersmarck diamonds — two magnificent and historic fancy intense yellow stones — and a Moussaieff ring with a fancy vivid blue diamond weighing 7.41 carats. However, the Moussaieff ring sold straight after the auction, a Sotheby’s source said. Details of that sale are unknown.
   In addition, the auction saw a world record for a fancy light pink diamond when a 33.63-carat stone in a Harry Winston ring from around 1970 sold for $12.8 million.
   A tough international economic and political climate may have been a contributing factor in the failure of some standout lots to sell, but the pre-sale estimates were “very fair,” according to David Bennett, worldwide chairman of Sotheby’s international jewelry division. “There is fear and political uncertainty. There is a wait-and-see attitude,” Bennett told Rapaport Magazine after the sale, in a reference to anti-corruption crackdowns in Saudi Arabia and China.

Quality sells
   The strong demand at the Christie’s sale may have impacted the buying momentum at Sotheby’s a day later, according to jewelers and dealers who attended both. A common denominator throughout was that high-quality items did well, sometimes topping pre-sale estimates — an indication that the market for exceptional diamonds remains robust.
   The Geneva results for both Christie’s and Sotheby’s were positive, considering the international economic and political challenges, said Marijan Dundek, author of the widely distributed book Diamonds, who attended the auctions. “The demand for exceptional gems is still there, and the sale of The Art of de Grisogono at Christie’s is a good example.”

Photos: Christie’s Images Ltd. 2017/ Sotheby’s

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - December 2017. To subscribe click here.

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