It was our best year ever,” says Alex Harris, principal of A. Harris LLC in New York City. “No small things sold. We have little parties during the season and that brings in clients. It forms a much more personal relationship.” Harris noted that Art Deco did well; he sold a particularly nice bracelet that sported a 45-carat, cushion-cut sapphire, a 5-carat, cushion-cut diamond mounted in an original setting and a sapphire and intense yellow diamond ring. Cocktail rings from the 1940s, ’50s and ’60s priced between $2,000 and $4,000 were snapped up quickly.
Camilla Bergeron, of the Manhattan salon bearing her name, found that expensive pieces were the focus for her clients. “We sold a number of fabulous big earrings for five and six figures.” Platinum and diamond jewelry, such as a 1930s Cartier bracelet, also sold. Bill Drucker of Drucker Antiques in Mount Kisco, New York, agrees that there was increased interest in better pieces, more so than in the recent past: “There were more sales in pieces for $5,000, $6,000. Our customers had no interest in less expensive things. They were spending the money more wisely by buying the better item.” Drucker sold many necklaces and bracelets that were signed by studio designers of the twentieth century. He also sold a great pair of 1950s Van Cleef & Arpels turquoise, gold and diamond earrings. In general, Drucker noted that Georg Jensen, Tiffany from the 1940s and 1950s and mid-century Bulgari were particularly successful.
“Business was strong this season, customers knew clearly what they wanted,” notes Malcolm Logan, principal of Nelson Rarities in Portland, Maine. “One client even asked specifically for a collet-set diamond necklace.” Logan says he sold mostly Edwardian, Art Deco and engagement rings. “Art Nouveau was also surprisingly strong,” he adds. “Generic or unsigned pieces didn’t do as well.”
DESIGN RENAISSANCE
Jewelry with strong, identifiable design seems to be having a renaissance. Russell Fogarty, principal of Kazanjian & Fogarty in Beverly Hills, California, sells mostly to the trade and the items that left his inventory may speak to the future of collecting. “1960s sells well, Oscar Heyman rings and earrings. We even sold a high-domed ’60s ring. We also sold a sculptural, swivel ring with diamonds — it was very well made, beautifully done and whimsical.”
Fashion trends seem to have had a positive effect on holiday sales too. Elle magazine did an entire spread on cameo jewelry in its December issue. “The sale of so many cameos this season was surprising,” says Elizabeth Doyle of Doyle and Doyle in New York City. “Victorian opal jewelry also did really well and lockets were big.”
Both Logan and Harris observed that there wasn’t as much interest in pearls, normally a reliable seller in past holiday seasons. Brooches, bracelets and earrings seemed to be the gift of choice, with necklaces and rings a close second. “People were not as conservative,” says Joan Boening, principal of James Robinson. “They wanted bigger, more important, wearable pieces. We sold a wonderful Wiese circa 1890 wide gold bracelet for $48,000.”
In terms of spending, much depended on who was doing the buying. “Women bought things for themselves in the $5,000 to $25,000 price range and men bought gifts ranging in price from $2,000 to $100,000,” says Louis Tenenbaum of Louis Tenenbaum Estate Jeweler in Houston, Texas. “Because people aren’t familiar with market fluctuations and increased prices, they ended up spending more than they originally anticipated,” he adds. “But it didn’t put them off from buying.” In terms of consumer age demographics and spending, there were also surprises. “We saw a mix of age ranges in terms of customers,” notes Tenenbaum. “There were 35- to 40-year-old buyers spending anywhere from $50,000 to $100,000 while the baby boomers — ranging in age from 50 to 60 years old — were buying things for $2,000 to $100,000.”
WEB SET
Women seem to outnumber men when it comes to internet sales. “Although more men are coming into the marketplace,” notes online retailer Lisa Stockhammer of The Three Graces, thethreegraces.com. “In general, I have more clients buying online and buying higher-end things.” While Stockhammer said that November sales were brisk, she noted that December sales were a bit slower. “My holiday season is usually not as good as other months because my clients are busy buying for others, not themselves.” Stockhammer is already strategizing for the next holiday season. “I will be including more gem-set pieces and items that appeal to a broader audience while still specializing in collector-level jewelry.” Fay Cullen of Faycullen.com had “a fabulous season, the best we’ve ever had,” she reports. “We’re well established now and we’ve built up a reputation over the last two years.” Cullen also emphasizes that being high up in the search engine contributes to gift-givers finding her website. There was far more traffic for engagement rings than in the past.” In addition to selling a number of vintage engagement rings, Cullen also sold several eighteenth-and nineteenth-century pieces, such as a Georgian amethyst necklace and Victorian pins.
The holiday buying season wasn’t without its hardships — the New York City transit strike dealt a forceful blow to those who depend on last-minute, walk-in traffic, as well as inconveniencing retailers just trying to get their goods shipped off. Boening lost a major sale from a client who could not get to her gallery due to standstill traffic. “Normally right after Thanksgiving is good, but not this year. It started slowly, but gained momentum. There was a sharp drop after the strike — almost a complete stop,” she says. However, that was not everyone’s experience. With the Big Apple’s famous subway system shut down, gift-givers had to rethink purchases and work fast. “We have very loyal customers,” enthuses Doyle. “They didn’t shop around. They found what they needed here. We had people walking from Brooklyn and Wall Street to get to us. Because of the strike, people did their shopping earlier. We were busy throughout the entire strike.”
Hardships aside, there were touching stories about special sales recounted by retailers. “We send out Christmas cards to our clients every year,” relates Tenenbaum, “inviting them to celebrate the season with us. We have a little party. A couple came in and bought something from us and then the husband took me aside for a moment. He quietly told me that his wife has been fighting cancer for the last three years and wasn’t able to come to the shop and every year for the last three years, she’s been longing to come here for the holidays. This year, she made it here.”
Drucker’s tale begins in the 1930s, when a wife received a pendant cross for the holidays from her husband. It was crafted by renowned artisan Bill Panis. The husband went on to buy several more pieces of Panis’ work over the years and became a friend of the artist. Fast forward to 2005, when the husband sought out Drucker and asked him if he had a Panis pendant cross; this one was for his daughter. By now, Panis was no longer living and he had ceased work many years ago, making finding one nearly impossible. Drucker had one and sold it to the gentleman. Now, 70 years later, his daughter has the same pendant cross that was made by the same hand as the one worn by her mother. This year, period jewelry made for happy holidays.
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