Fashion in 2021 is split between escapism and safe havens. Designers left listless in lockdown have exploded out of it with collections embracing bold colors, pop-art motifs and cartoonish cuts. Others are retreating into well-trodden territories by dusting off classic shapes, patterns and wardrobe staples that will pickle well should future seasons be canceled out the way they were last year.
Bold shades
Colorful jewelry was already spreading joy and optimism in the darkness of 2020. Versace’s spring/summer 2021 collection, which Donatella Versace describes as having “an upbeat soul,” is filled with trippy prints and neon jewels. Missoni’s chunky chain lariats with long, colorful tassels are another sign that this trend will continue to hold strong this year.
“Now we desire something that gives us energy. Something completely different,” Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri told Vogue following the release of the company’s leopard print-packed pre-Fall 2021 line. “After this year — so intense, so depressing — I would like to come back to the fashion that started my career: the playfulness that attracted me and my generation to fashion.”
That sentiment also rings true in fine jewelry. As Jenny McCrane-Hugh of Charlotte + Campbell notes, “2020 has been a rough year,” and her New York-based brand is a purveyor of bright gems and quirky motifs such as rainbows and dinosaurs. “People need a refresh, and they need things that make them feel happy. I think jewelry lovers genuinely feel happy when they see bold, colorful combinations. Now seems like an appropriate time to update and liven up your jewelry collection with happy pieces.”
In terms of which color combinations to select, we return to the runways for clues. In 2021 collections, there was plenty of color to be found in the accessories. Danish success story Ganni contrasted patterned bags with bright straps in a rainbow of shades, while Salvatore Ferragamo splashed block primary colors on its boots.
“Fashion and jewelry evolve together, with color bringing new life to both,” says Graziela Kaufman, founder of Chicago-based fine-jewelry brand Graziela. She uses titanium and colored gemstones to achieve that in her collections. “With the rise in popularity of prints and bold colors, we’re seeing consumers wanting to extend this boldness to their jewelry and accessories as well. When it comes to colored jewelry, there’s really nothing too out-of-the-box these days.”
Playful pop art
Another 2021 catwalk trend that perfectly sets the scene is the black-and-white, ’60s-inspired pop art prints at houses such as Carolina Herrera and Issey Miyake. The bold enamel jewelry of trend pioneers like Bea Bongiasca and Melissa Kaye are a perfect extension of this whimsical dress-up style.
“Our clients have embraced our Neon collection to inject some playfulness into their jewelry wardrobe, taking some of the formality out of fine jewelry and making it more approachable and wearable in everyday life,” says Kaye. The Neon line features 18-karat gold and diamonds alongside enamel in bright shades like shocking pink and highlighter yellow. Prices start at $1,100 for a pair of huggie earrings, and peak at $10,850 for enamel and gold Ada bracelets containing more than 1 carat of diamonds. While some might write this collection off as a bid to lure editors and Instagram followers rather than sales, it has proved a commercial success. International retailers such as Net-a-Porter, Threads Styling, Saks Fifth Avenue and Harrods have picked it up, as have a host of independents across the US.
“I knew injecting neon enamel into my collection would be a risk and potentially disrupt the way people looked at fine jewelry,” admits Kaye. “It was important to me that the collection remain elevated in these new, striking enamel colors. We found that combining the neon enamel with rich 18-karat gold, diamonds and high-quality craftsmanship was the perfect representation of fun luxury.”
Lifting the spirit
Color is also an emotional need; as Kaye puts it, shoppers are seeking out “mood-boosting jewelry” after the strain of 2020. Recognizing the desire for a restorative spiritual lift, New York trend forecaster Fashion Snoops believes the craving for color will continue to shape what consumers buy in 2021.
Fashion Snoops highlights five micro-trends within this wider one. “Soft Power” references pastels — morganite, soft amethyst, pink sapphire, aquamarine, labradorite. “Fun-damentals” is a youthful, radical take on color that ties in nicely with neon enamel or the electric hues of titanium. “Tintedcore” is described as non-binary, with nostalgic and calming shades that offer a subtle vibrancy, such as soft grey tourmaline or the sandy shimmer of unplated white gold. “Transformers” are colors that are unexpected or hard to classify; they include alternative jewel tones such as the raspberry red of spinels, and jade that’s a shade darker than you’d anticipate. The final color trend is “Natural Dyes,” covering spicy shades like Le Vian’s Cinnamon Citrine.
“Right now, more than ever, fashion and jewelry are there to cheer us up, brighten our mood and bring positivity to our lives,” says designer Emily P. Wheeler, whose bold gemstone creations provide an instant hit of dopamine. “I think jewelry is especially capable of lifting spirits through inherent value, deeper meaning, and timelessness. It’s often a piece of jewelry that marks a momentous occasion, but it can also bring us strength and joy in difficult times. I think that we’re going to see a very celebratory world this spring and summer once we are all feeling safer. One where people are excited to get dressed up and aren’t afraid to pile on the things that make them happy.”
For retailers intrigued by chromatic looks but wary of how to sell them in more traditional luxury environments, Kaye has some advice.
“It’s all about sharing styled content and...when possible, getting the pieces directly on clients,” she says. “It’s important to show how these bright hues can work for even the most color-shy clients. Like many New Yorkers, I tend to substantially dress in black and grey. However, it’s always fun to inject a little pop of color into an otherwise neutral wardrobe, and jewelry is the perfect opportunity to do so.”
Article from the Rapaport Magazine - January 2021. To subscribe click here.