Rapaport Magazine
Style & Design

Fashion forecast


What’s in store for the design world in 2021? Analyst Paola De Luca shares insights from The Jewellery Trendbook.

By David Brough


Clean lines, a spotlight on cameos and skulls, and modern reinterpretations of old jewelry-making techniques are among the highlights of The Jewellery Trendbook Forecast 2021+.

A forecasting bible for creative directors and designers, the book launched at the VicenzaOro trade show in northern Italy in September. Its editor, jewelry analyst Paola De Luca, identifies four broad trends from the volume and discusses how they will impact designs in the coming seasons.

Art activism

During times of global political and economic turmoil, activism often manifests through art and creativity. The “artivist,” says De Luca, will combine the visionary power of the arts with the critical planning of activism in an effort to bring about social change.

In jewelry design, this can be expressed through “a new minimalism which is very colorful, happy and peaceful,” according to the editor, who predicts that “clean lines in jewelry will reflect a need for simplicity.”

Communication plays a particular role, with messages more clearly delineated. “There is more jewelry with writing or lettering — writing and calligraphy communicating art. This is a very strong movement among Middle Eastern designs,” she notes.

Ancient wisdom

Themes of the past, such as mythology and archaeology in both Western and Eastern cultures, will gain importance as design inspirations, the Trendbook predicts. In a digital era, the appeal of exploring old ways of interpreting what is around us shows a desire to disconnect, to incorporate mystery in a world that glorifies science.

In jewelry, cameos and skulls with a dark edge will return to fashion, as will carved gemstones and minerals such as jade, and old- and rose-cut diamonds, De Luca says.

The tale of tales

A celebration and reinterpretation of half-forgotten old craft techniques is on the horizon as well, with graphic and colorful effects coming through in new types of finishes and enameling methods.

Extremely detailed pieces are being shaped via ancient jewelry-making techniques like filigree and carving as well, telling impactful stories.

“Nature continues to be very popular, but done in a very graphic way, with a craft effect,” adds De Luca. She anticipates seeing “new types of fauna” in design, and artists “getting inspired by local cultures and fables.”

Digital dharma

The idea of “digital dharma,” interpreting spirituality through jewelry in the digital age, includes celebrating imperfection: using unfinished rough stones, for instance, and mixing and matching materials.

In addition, as we mark 50 years since the moon landing, we can expect a focus on the constellations. “In times of turmoil, the moon and the sky become the direction of the next journey,” says De Luca.

In jewelry, this can be expressed as pavé with an organic finish; translucent opals with undefined color; fluorescent diamonds; and other gemstones that give off a futuristic glow.

“Glowing stones — opals and moonstones — will clean the soul and heal the mind,” the book states. “Shades are designed to restore calm and energy in the body.”

thefuturist-pdlg.com

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - December 2019. To subscribe click here.

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Tags: David Brough