Thelma West’s new Embrace collection is her creative response to the first lockdown in the UK last year. Made out of recycled gold and featuring ethically-sourced diamonds in unusual shapes — either special cuts or trapezes — the bracelets sit snugly around the wrist. The series is harmonious, emotionally charged and highly covetable. It’s signature West.
“Embrace was born out of the need to feel such closeness and warmth. It’s a bracelet that hugs you,” says the Nigeria-born, London-based designer. “The name is full of meanings that a lot of people can relate to. It is for anyone who is open to embracing life and others.” She plans to introduce colored diamonds and gemstones, as well as ceramic, in future pieces of the collection.
West’s style stands out in its intriguing use of materials to offset spectacular, carefully selected diamonds. Her Rebel Black ring in 18-karat gold and ceramic, with its pear-shaped, 5-carat diamond clutched in a dark and dramatic claw setting, turned our Instagram followers’ heads in 2020 and became the year’s top post on Rapaport Magazine’s account. West admires architects known for their bold works, such as Frank Lloyd Wright, Antoni Gaudí and Frank Gehry, and aims to emulate their visions in her smaller-scale but equally impactful creations.
An eventful journey
Hailing from Lagos, West moved to Antwerp at age 17 to study gemology. She worked as a diamond dealer before cofounding wholesale business Yeraua Diamonds and opening her own gemological lab, IGR London, both in the British capital. In 2012, she launched her Thelma West Diamonds design house, and today devotes most of her ebullient energy to it. “I have reduced my time in the diamond wholesale side of things, with the exception of sourcing for a very few clients and my creations. I’m choosing to focus on designing, creating inspired jewels, and building beautiful relationships with clients, suppliers and beyond,” she says.
This stronger emphasis on jewelry making comes with a recent move to a new studio, a quirky townhouse spread over four floors in the heart of Soho. The all-female team at her lab has also relocated to the London district known for its appeal among creative types. “The new location has helped the people around me stay more upbeat and have a more positive outlook,” West rejoices.
Meanwhile, her diamond trading office is still in British diamond center Hatton Garden, toward which West feels strongly affectionate — although it hasn’t always been the most welcoming place for a Black diamantaire. “My 17 years there have not been smooth sailing, and I have had my fair share of issues with acceptance, belonging and more, but challenges are part of the journey. Hatton Garden’s very long jewelry and gem history is, without a doubt, not
just enchanting, but central to gem trading
still nowadays.”
Supportive environment
Her own experiences and natural empathy have influenced her management style. “I set out to create a safe space for women regardless of race, age or sexual orientation. In our team, there are a couple of Israelis, a Kazakh, and a couple of Nigerians,” says West, who is involved in many philanthropic projects.
The entrepreneurial designer is not only an advocate for women in the industry, but a strong voice in promoting responsibly sourced diamonds — a priority for all her businesses since their inception. “I source from legitimate channels not involved in conflicts, and this is important to our clients. Diamonds do not only have to be exceptionally beautiful, they must also be ethically produced. The responsibility goes further into ensuring that diamond-powered revenues are used to improve lives by investing in infrastructure locally. Natural diamonds are made to last forever, making recycled diamonds another great option for my clients.”
thelmawest.comArticle from the Rapaport Magazine - March 2021. To subscribe click here.