From the opulence of the Maharajas and the famous Golconda diamond mine, to Jacques Cartier’s game-changing love affair with the country’s jewelry style, India is a rich source of jewelry history, and the wide-reaching influence of its artisans continues to inspire designers today.
Traditional hallmarks of Indian jewels, such as carved gemstones or the enamel favored by designers like Alice Cicolini, are increasingly popping up in collections from Western creators. Juicy gemstone cabochons and beads — particularly emeralds and rubies — capture the colorful abandon that we associate with those early pieces from the Maharaja reign, while on-theme rose-cut gems offer understated antique-style sparkle. India’s landscape and culture, too, are inspiring creators like Flora Bhattachary, who spent time there as a child. The domes and archways of Mughal architecture are popular themes, as are Hindu gods and goddesses.
In addition to Western companies, there is a new wave of Indian jewelers — such as Ama Dhami, Munpreet and Harakh — looking to produce pieces that stray outside conventional Indian design parameters but still give subtle nods to their cultural roots. Considering there’s an estimated $800 billion stockpile of heavy, traditional 24-karat yellow gold jewels in Indian homes, the harmonious new blend of East and West appeals to both contemporary jewelry fans and younger Indian shoppers whose ties to the traditional styles are loosening.
Image: ShutterstockArticle from the Rapaport Magazine - April 2020. To subscribe click here.