It’s been more than a year since much of the world went into seclusion because of the coronavirus pandemic. For many, being stuck at home, separated from loved ones and friends, fostered a sense of nostalgia and provided time to reflect on what was truly important. This has led more women to express themselves through bespoke jewels, designers say.
“Jewelry is incredibly personal,” says Renna Taher, founder of New York-based brand Renna. “We wear it to feel something. It reminds us of someone or something. It provides a sense of protection, or it represents a hope we have for the future. We are all looking for solace during these challenging times. Taking the time to create something truly personal, especially now, will have meaning for generations to come.”
The southern-California native — whose creations are inspired by pieces she’s handled as a Sotheby’s jewelry specialist — has found that the growing demand for bespoke spans generations: She has requests coming in from both old and new clients.
She’s not the only one. Several other designers are attributing their surprising increase in business during the pandemic to bespoke commissions.
“I am currently creating pieces for clients in the US, Europe, Asia and the Middle East. Most of my loyal and new clients commission two or three pieces at once,” says Ana-Katarina Vinkler-Petrovic, founder of US brand AnaKatarina, which offers custom work and collections with sustainably sourced materials. “The one character similarity in all of our clients is their independent, creative spirit and design aesthetic, which transcends trends [and becomes more about creating] classic objets d’art with a ‘wrinkle.’”
What feels right
London-based designer Theo Fennell, known throughout the world for his eclectic, avant-garde styles, affirms that the complex emotions arising from the pandemic have played into the appetite for personalized jewels.
“Emotion is at the very core of bespoke work, along with the aesthetics, of course,” Fennell says. “You are making something unique for a person, and done properly, it should be a portrait of that person in precious materials, as it were. In fact, we do make many pieces that actually are portraits. A bespoke piece should be so redolent of its wearer’s character that it is truly theirs, and in generations to come, it will be known as their piece — Aunt Mary’s ring, the Jones necklace — however humble [it is].”
London-based design house Robinson Pelham began exclusively as a custom jeweler. Creative director Vanessa Chilton and director Zoe Benyon work closely with clients to ensure that the styles and emotional aspects of the pieces reflect their wishes.
“We know what to ask,” says Chilton. “Do they want the jewel to transition from day to evening? Does it need to be versatile — for example, have an extra sleeve (ring), or the ability to transform into drop earrings for the evening? Emotionally, we can then incorporate meanings — hidden or overt — sentiment, details and dates. These can sometimes be part of the design, or they can sometimes be a hidden compartment [or other element].”
The types of bespoke work vary from client to client, notes Vinkler-Petrovic. “Currently, we are creating a statement diamond cuff, a statement diamond ring, three different pairs of emerald earrings, a statement diamond locket, and a custom Lover’s Eye necklace.”
The upcycling factor
“Upcycling” has become a trendy term in the jewelry industry, but the practice of getting old jewels — often heirlooms — redesigned to match the new owner’s style is far from new; it’s been going on since people started handing down or purchasing previously owned jewels. In the past, it was largely limited to the wealthy and the well-educated in the arts. Recently, this trend has become more widespread, and the pandemic has expanded it further.
“We often use stones that our clients already have to create new pieces,” Taher says. One customer, for example, “had a vintage brooch and ring that she loved because they reminded her of her aunt, but she wasn’t wearing [them] because the style wasn’t quite her. We took the stones out and created two rings and a bracelet for her specifically to wear every day.”
Upcycling jewelry involves both emotional and ethical issues, according to Chilton and Benyon.
“We have seen an increase in the younger generation wanting to use jewelry from grandparents and reimagining the style into a modern piece,” Benyon says. “This sits well with the desire to be sustainable and to recycle or upcycle what they already have.”
Working together
All of these designers say the pandemic has created new ways for jewelry lovers and creators to work together on meaningful pieces.
“Traditionally, bespoke jewelry has a very high barrier to entry,” Taher says. “With the growth of our Instagram account, clients are able to interact with us and contact us very easily to explore bespoke options.”
Vinkler-Petrovic says the rise in bespoke commissions has spurred her to become a better designer. “The more you create individual pieces that push your aesthetic and creative boundaries, the more people resonate with your work. Bespoke work is a wonderful avenue to challenge one’s aesthetic. Many of my bespoke pieces become the inspiration for new collections.”
Fennell is among those who see custom and commission pieces becoming mainstream as more women choose to express themselves through jewelry. “It has been happening for some time, and I think even the most cynical of the international brands realize that great crafting and individual design is what people who know about jewelry now want,” he says. “This certainly doesn’t suit them, but it does give a wonderful opportunity to young, talented people and small workshops in this great trade.”
Article from the Rapaport Magazine - May 2021. To subscribe click here.