How popular is antique/vintage pearl jewelry today? Really beautiful and period-appropriate pearl jewelry is desirable. An example is a Victorian split-pearl collar. The Victorian-era styling has the details collectors find appealing — fringe, clusters of split pearls, removable pendant and an original clasp.
What are the finer points of natural pearls and the prices they can command?
Rarity dictates the price, followed by demand. Natural pearls are extremely rare; a strand made up entirely of natural pearls is not easily available. Although [it is] a gemstone prized throughout history for its warmth and versatility — daytime- or nighttime-appropriate, and worn by both sexes and all ages — natural pearls are oftentimes very small, uneven, and not particularly lustrous. That is why natural pearl jewelry tends to be about the piece overall versus the pearl alone. More recent pearl jewelry features pearls differently than in antiques, where the pearl is often bead-set like a gemstone. An example is the Victorian split-pearl collar discussed previously. The variance in shape and luster of the natural split pearls is accommodated with elaborate gold work to make a striking but wearable design.
What factors should one consider when choosing pieces to stock in this category?
Quality of design and condition followed by wearability are the main things to consider. I look to see if there is evidence of lead solder, which will slowly eat away at the piece, and if there have been replacements, such as a glass pearl, substituted for missing stones.
What type of pearl jewelry is most popular? Unusual and wearable pieces sell. A beautiful example is a vintage wide and articulated Tiffany & Co. sapphire and akoya pearl bracelet. This is a sinuous and heavy piece that is laborious to produce yet comfortable on the arm. It is unique and very sexy. Women want to wear comfortable things that also express their personality. In terms of jewelry categories, I would say earrings are always popular, and a nice Edwardian dog collar always gets a second look.
Where are the best places today to source antique and vintage pearl items?
Finding prime examples of antique and vintage pearl jewelry is a labor of love — you need to scour everywhere! I travel to jewelry shows and am in touch with other dealers across the globe, but I mainly buy across the counter from the clients that come to see me. I prefer always to handle the jewelry in person, so auctions and online are not my first choices as sources. You can tell so much from how the piece feels, and you can more readily assess the condition.
Do you have to educate clients about choosing and
caring for this type of jewelry?
Certainly — for example, with a lovely Edwardian three-pearl ring, I would encourage the client to avoid chemicals and cosmetics to help preserve the luster. Another consideration is to make sure the fit is accurate so the ring does not rotate on the finger. Having said all that, antique and vintage jewelry has already stood the test of time and tends to be more durable than one might expect. The best practice is no steam, no ultrasonic, and a gentle hand to clean. A little tenderness and care goes a long way.
Article from the Rapaport Magazine - May 2021. To subscribe click here.