RAPAPORT...
Drawing inspiration from Turkish history, Atelier Minyon showcases diamond jewelry with an exotic flair.
By After many years as a manufacturer and designer, Turkish-born Alp Sagnak was at last ready for the big step: a retail shop in New York. The location, as luck would have it, turned out to be one of the city’s hottest addresses: Spring Street in SoHo. Atelier Minyon had a “soft opening” in December 2008 — Sagnak plans to wait until later in 2009 to stage a formal “grand opening” — so it’s a bit early to have a lot of selling history. But the designer says he’s pleased and optimistic with the reception he has received from his customers, who are a mix of stylish downtown types and tourists. And while he’s not yet ready to launch an advertising campaign, Atelier Minyon has been discovered by a number of fashion stylists who are attracted by the rich colors and dramatic details of the jewelry.
Setting Up Shop
As a second-generation designer, Sagnak is no stranger to the jewelry business. In his native Turkey, the Sagnak family has manufactured and retailed jewelry for 43 years. The company, known as Jewel House of Minyon, has the capability to produce any type of jewelry, from machine-made production to handmade novelties. The half-dozen Turkish retail outlets carry a mix of their own styles and other brands, but the New York shop is stocked exclusively with handmade pieces.
To create his retail venture in the U.S., Sagnak partnered with two American entrepreneurs, Elizabeth Genel and Mark Nyman. They met several years ago when the couple traveled to Turkey and fell in love with the designs from the Jewel House of Minyon. The three formed a partnership to bring the designs to the United States. Sagnak had already laid the groundwork for a wholesale business by exhibiting his jewelry at the New York JA show and at the Basel and Dubai shows. He traveled the world for several years, building the international aspect of his family’s business.
The design of the Atelier Minyon shop was inspired by Istanbul’s Topkapi Palace, the home of the sultans who ruled Europe and Asia for more than 600 years during the Ottoman Empire. Everything in the shop is handcrafted by Turkish artisans, including distinctive tiles, one-of-a-kind lanterns and furniture. Sagnak says he keeps his workbench in the front window so passersby can watch him at work making jewelry.
Exotic StyleThe jewelry Sagnak creates is 18- and 24-karat gold, set with diamonds and gemstones. The gold is melted, forged and fabricated by hand, after which the stones are set. Diamonds are a favorite, but they are generally small in size, from 1 to 5 points. “We have always used diamonds,” says Sagnak, because he believes diamonds create a “higher level” of jewelry. Qualities vary, depending on the collection. For example, in heritage-inspired designs, the designer uses old mine cut diamonds in SI quality. Some larger pieces use a number of diamonds, often in pavé settings.
The designs from Atelier Minyon are quite different from what one finds in other jewelry stores. They rely on Turkish history, artifacts from the Ottoman Empire and classical architecture for their exotic flavor. Sagnak has a degree in industrial engineering from a top university in Turkey and combines his love of engineering and Turkish architecture in his jewelry.
The shields and masks worn by Trojan warriors were one inspiration for his designs. The Pasha Collection uses actual-scale designs from the domes of mosques, as well as other architectural details. The first few pieces in a new collection of skulls are meeting with so much enthusiasm that the designer is busily producing several dozen additional pieces. Overall, the design pace is fast: Two to three new collections are introduced every six months.
In his position as an international retailer, Sagnak has had time to observe the differences between American and Turkish shoppers. “Americans want everything big – and different,” he says. But they were slow to warm up to the richness and weight of 24-karat gold. “Turkey’s heritage is rich color,” he says. “Twenty-four karat gold was too heavy for the American customers so I had to mix it with 18-karat.”
Also, there is the matter of the buying. “In Turkey, people buy jewelry by emotion. In America, they plan the future and buy for occasions. Sometimes, they come in and look, ask for a card and don’t buy anything. Then they come back later on to buy for the special occasion.” Already he has begun attracting enthusiasts who purchase a selection of his designs for their personal collections. Generally, the reaction to his unusual designs has been enthusiastic at both the wholesale and retail levels. “American buyers love the historical style,” he says. “People are most appreciative in the U.S. It is a wonderful thing for a designer.”
A number of American retailers carry the Minyon collection. Usually, Sagnak says, they buy about 20 pieces, display them together in a separate showcase and merchandise them as a collection so customers recognize them as being from the same designer. Wholesale prices range from $500 to $20,000. Sagnak supplies his clients with distinctive, carved wooden display fixtures and boxes. Sometimes, he is invited to visit the stores for personal appearances and trunk shows.
Right now, Sagnak says he is enjoying the challenge of his new venture. The five-year plan includes opening as many as ten additional boutiques, primarily in upscale East Coast locations, but he does not rule out some West Coast expansion when the time is right.
Article from the Rapaport Magazine - May 2009. To subscribe click here.