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Retail
On The Cuff
Cufflinks express the personality of a well-dressed man.
By Amber Michelle
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| Sheryl Jones
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There’s a special something about a man wearing cufflinks. He looks sophisticated and interesting, dashing and dapper. Think of the ad executives on AMC television network’s “Mad Men” or Cary Grant in any of his movies. The cufflinks those men are wearing add another dimension to their personalities.
Cufflinks have a long history dating back to the Egyptian era. The modern cufflink, however, was inspired by the elaborate cuffs of men’s shirts in the Renaissance era, which gave way to a plainer cuff that was held together by decorative ribbons in the 1600s. Aristocracy on both sides of the Channel in France and England are credited with making what we now know as cufflinks fashionable during the 1700s, when they replaced ribbon ties with pieces of painted glass or gems called sleeve buttons. Because they were handmade as well as time-consuming and expensive to produce, it was only the blue bloods who could afford these little luxuries.
That all changed in the 1800s, when the Industrial Revolution began and cufflinks were mass-produced more easily and inexpensively. This opened the way for the middle class to afford cufflinks. It was de rigueur for a gentleman to wear cufflinks well into the 1960s. After that, more casual lifestyles and changing social values led to a less formal sense of style. But now, in some circles, cufflinks are making a comeback.
The one thing that can be counted on is change and once again, cufflinks are finding a following. “Twenty or thirty years ago, cufflinks were something executives in their thirties to sixties would wear. It was not fashion; it was a staple for getting dressed up,” says Robert Tateossian, chief executive officer (CEO) and designer of his London-based eponymous firm that includes retail stores around the world. “Now, cufflinks are fashion. We launch our cufflink line with men’s fashion collections every January and June. Now, 18- and 19-year-olds wear cufflinks, guys in their twenties will wear a shirt, cufflinks and jacket but no tie.”
Designer Sheryl Jones of Sheryl Jones Inc., based in New York City’s jewelry district, finds that a variety of men are buying cufflinks, from the Wall Street mogul to the young professional. “There is a timeline for cufflinks,” Jones says. “Men get their first pair when they graduate from high school or college. Those cufflinks will be something basic. Then they get another pair as a wedding gift or to mark a special occasion. By the time they are in their thirties, men will start to collect cufflinks.”
Cufflinks from the mid-twentieth century tended to be basic monogrammed gold discs, black onyx or a simple knot design. Now, cufflinks are more of a way for men to show their personality. “A man is attracted to wearing cufflinks to show his personality, in a way that is not pedestrian,” notes David Zyla, Emmy-award-winning stylist and author of the book Color Your Style. “Men wear cufflinks as a way of showing the world who they are. A man will find a cufflink that is very personal and it becomes a conversation starter, whether in business or socially. Wearing cufflinks can crack the ice and start a conversation.”
Tateossian incorporates all kinds of elements in his cufflink designs that appeal to special interests. To attract a younger audience, he uses fossils, gears that rotate, meteorites and, for a more mature crowd, gemstones that include rough diamonds for a rugged look. “Men who wear cufflinks want to be noticed,” comments Tateossian.
Michael O’Connor, celebrity stylist and principal of consulting firm Style & Substance in New York City, has seen an uptick in men wearing larger cufflinks with gems as a show of status. “Men are wearing cufflinks as a marker of success and as a way to wear jewelry,” says O’Connor. “The cufflinks are getting bigger and bolder in style and more showy. There are also more choices in stones — diamonds, topaz, chalcedony and other stones.”
Like choosing any accessory, selecting cufflinks is an art. When a customer comes into Tateossian’s stores looking for cufflinks, he has his staff ask several questions about the person who will be wearing them: How old is he, is he conservative, funky, is he tall? “Once you can visualize the person, you can show the cufflinks that will work. It can be very individualistic,” explains Tateossian.
Zyla suggests that when purchasing a first pair of cufflinks one should think about the metal used. “Look at the metal he wears the most in a belt buckle or watch. That is what he is attracted to and feels handsome wearing. Then look at whether he is wearing the cufflinks with a suit and tie or jeans and blazer. That will dictate if the stone is clear and shiny or opaque. Take a cue from hair color or shoe color. Pick a stone that matches one of them for a neutral look. The second pair of cufflinks can be themed to a hobby or something that he is passionate about.”
Beyond self-expression, cufflinks take a man’s image one step further, showing that he takes extra care in his grooming. “Men should wear cufflinks,” concludes Tateossian. “Cufflinks show the meticulous care of going one extra step, they make a person more interesting. And a cufflink does not go out of fashion.” Article from the Rapaport Magazine - April 2014. To subscribe click here.
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