Oval shapes, three-stone rings, halos and rose gold are captivating brides this year, according to top bridal jewelry makers, with an emerging preference for detailed vintage styles such as Art Deco. For men, wedding bands with two-tone metals are making their way into the limelight.
Ovals making the rounds
Oval-shaped center stones and solitaires have become fashionable — a trend partly influenced by celebrities such as tennis star Serena Williams and actresses Ashley Greene and Kirsten Dunst. Not only are oval-cut diamonds a distinctive alternative to rounds, they also seem larger than square or round-cut diamonds of the same size. And the elongated style makes the fingers look longer.
Christopher Designs introduced a new oval cut this year called the L’Amour Crisscut Oval, which takes the look to a whole new level. “Because of the unique faceting, there is a more even distribution of the brilliance across the stone, making it brighter and whiter,” says Michael O’Connor, the designer’s chief marketing officer. “Also, the cut is broader in format, so it produces a silhouette size approximately 30% larger than a generic oval.”
Another advantage of the cut, according to O’Connor, is that it does not exhibit the “bowtie” effect that one usually sees through the table of a generic oval cut.
“Though round is still the most popular diamond shape for engagement rings, fancy shaped diamonds have been growing in popularity in recent years,” reports Kristen Lawler-Trustey of Forevermark, citing De Beers’ 2017 Diamond Acquisition Study. “Of all fancy shaped diamonds, princess and cushion are the most popular shapes, and oval-shaped diamonds have also seen a recent rise in popularity.”
Hello, halos
Halos have been dominating the US bridal jewelry market for a while now, partly because they are a big look compared to a plain solitaire. There is a trend toward making the diamonds in the halo even bigger, according to Josette Patterson of California-based Mark Patterson Design.
There are also some design variations taking place. Lyndsay Hirsch of Parade Design, another California-based jeweler, says halos are getting “more artistic and intricate, with interesting shapes that evoke snowflakes or vintage design.”
Rule of three
Classic three-stone rings are making a comeback. That’s partly thanks to the stacking trend, which lends itself to the three-stone style, and partly because of the UK’s Prince Harry’s marriage to Meghan Markle, who wore a center cushion-cut engagement ring. The style is also versatile, notes Danhov Diamonds: “You can choose any diamond shape and color combination, as it gives you a wide scope of options.”
Vintage year
Meanwhile, jewelers Gabriel & Co. and Kirk Kara both see an emerging demand for Art Deco styles.
“Our latest styles include solitaires with beautiful heads, exquisite floral elements and dainty edges reminiscent of vintage styles — a nod to bohemian chic with a hint of Art Deco charm,” says the latter brand’s Angela Karaguezian.
A rose by any other name
Rose gold is also a favorite among brides looking for something different. As Danhov points out, “rose gold is trendy in everything, even smartphone accessories.”
Many of the Hollywood elite, including Blake Lively, Alison Brie and Lauren Conrad, have been seen wearing rose gold. Parade’s Lumiere bridal collection pairs rose-cut diamonds and rose gold for a fun twist on the theme, a look popular among millennials “and Instagram-obsessed brides of any age,” says Hirsch. “We see more of this moving in the coastal areas of the US, and in larger/hip cities.”
Lawler-Trustey comments that “white gold and platinum bridal settings have seen a decrease in popularity, while rose gold is seeing an increase in popularity.”
Time and place
Age seems to be a factor in ring preferences. “Brides in their 30s come in knowing exactly what they want, and often they want to redesign an heirloom,” says Patterson, whereas women in their 40s and older prefer larger diamonds.
“Some of these women are getting married for the second time, and they are very interested in designing their rings,” she elaborates. “They like the addition of colored diamonds, and a play of metal. Design becomes a priority, and larger bands are a must.”
Location makes a difference as well, according to Karaguezian: “The big cities are more minimalistic, whereas the smaller towns and the southern states appreciate more detail and decorative rings.”
The way to a man’s heart
On the men’s side, there is an emerging preference for more interesting personalized designs, and for Mark Patterson, that means two-tone. “We have been working on Pure, a men’s collection that features wedding bands that combine 24-karat gold and [platinum],” says Josette Patterson. The gold gets an etched finish for a look that is less flashy and more masculine. It’s the more decorative element of the rings, while the platinum surrounding it provides the tough, everlasting element.
Karaguezian notes that engraving is popular — “bands that are either engraved all around, or just a touch to match the fiancé’s engagement ring” — as is the addition of gems: “We are seeing men put colored gemstones in their bands to go with colored or two-tone metals such as rose and white. Some are rose gold on the inside and white gold on the outside.”
Image (clockwise from top left): Christopher Designs christopherdesigns.com; Forevermark Tribute collection ring stack forevermark.com; Parade Design paradesign.com; Mark Patterson markpatterson.com; Kirk Kara kirkkara.comArticle from the Rapaport Magazine - August 2018. To subscribe click here.