How does the career you had before becoming a designer inform your tastes and techniques?I think my engineering background informs my mind-set and design philosophy more than anything. My starting point for a new design is typically, “How is this piece going to work?” Function is not an afterthought — it is central to the design.
Does being based in New York have an impact on your creations? Absolutely! I am a born and bred New Yorker, and the energy of the city is incomparable. The architecture, urban nature and people of New York provide endless inspiration. The collection is also fully crafted in New York.
What are your other sources of inspiration? My design process is definitely not linear. I would say I’m perpetually in design mode. By that, I mean inspiration is everywhere, so I’m constantly trying to keep my eyes and mind open to generate new ideas. While at times I might design with certain stones, materials or techniques in mind, I typically start with more of a concept and then develop how I want to implement and realize that concept.
How are diamonds used in your creations?
Diamonds are central to many of the pieces in our collection. They are timeless, and diamond jewelry is very often purchased to symbolize milestones — including engagements, graduations, push presents, etc. But there has been a gradual shift in the fine jewelry market where an increasing percentage of fine jewelry sales are self-purchases. As the self-purchases have increased, we have experienced a broader universe of milestones being celebrated, including promotions, raises, or just because. This gives diamonds an increased relevance in the current market. In our latest collection, called Aria, we have moved toward pieces featuring a mix of larger diamonds, rich gold and occasional pops of color.
Who is the Melissa Kaye client?
Our client is accomplished and confident — she has a refined ease to her. Although her style is luxurious, it transcends labels. More importantly, she appreciates quality and meticulous craftsmanship. She is sophisticated, yet unassuming — she pairs the collection effortlessly with a white T-shirt as well as with black-tie attire.
You don’t design bridal lines yet. Why is that?
We have had a number of brides purchase our rings as wedding bands and have created some custom engagement rings. However, we haven’t formally ventured into the bridal market yet, though this is certainly on the horizon.
What’s your favorite personal jewel?
Ironically, my engagement ring. It’s a classic style with a beautiful emerald-cut diamond center stone. My husband and I got engaged while I was still working in finance. Now that I’m a jewelry designer, my husband has encouraged me to redesign my ring. Perhaps this personal project will be the starting point of a more formal bridal line in the future.
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Image: Melissa Kaye and her Aria ear wrap in 18-karat yellow gold with diamondsArticle from the Rapaport Magazine - August 2018. To subscribe click here.