The fourth quarter is calling, and the industry is readying an answer to the perennially important question of what to stock for robust holiday sales. This year’s offerings bear a resemblance to 2017, in part due to their long earrings and stackable styles, but big cuffs and über-feminine numbers are joining the ranks. Plus, there are unusual pearls and more daily-wear pieces. The market also seems to favor either attainable price points (under $1,500) or higher-end ones, with less interest in mid-range products, according to interviewees.
The biggest takeaway for jewelers? Never stop offering newness to bring the next generation into stores. Read on for further instruction.
Stackables, femininity and fancies In the more classic arena of fine diamond jewelry, design houses and fashion experts are touting layerables, feminine styles, and fancy-shaped diamonds. To wit, Forevermark’s Tribute collection will be a focus for the holidays, with looks such as stackable bangle bracelets and hoops retailing largely for $498 to $4,000. Also of note: fancy shapes in fashion and bridal looks.
“The 2017 De Beers Diamond Insight Report found that 60% of brides are choosing a fancy-shaped diamond,” notes Kristen Lawler-Trustey, Forevermark’s public relations manager.
Los Angeles firm Rahaminov, with its Movál collection of modified oval shapes, has been enjoying the spike in fancy sales. Ovals are popular for their more feminine silhouette, and price points for Movál range from $10,000 to $50,000.
Meanwhile, bangle bracelets between $2,000 and $5,000 that are ideal for stacking are also expected to be a top holiday seller for jeweler Simon G.
Even Boston-based Hearts On Fire, known for its branded, squarish-shaped Dream cut, has seen a jump in requests for mountings to hold customers’ oval diamonds.
Alongside ovals, marquise cuts set in both east-west and north-south configurations are gaining popularity, notes Amanda Gizzi, director of public relations and special events for Jewelers of America (JA). And there’s a lesser-known shape that’s catching on as well, she says: “Shield cuts are bringing out the superhero vibe in women and men.”
Krista Beermann, Hearts On Fire’s vice president of product development, is seeing interest in delicate classic styles with understated feminine twists like scalloping. Best-selling price points for these range from $5,000 to $10,000. That’s why the brand’s Lorelei bangle is shaping up to be a favorite for the holidays: At $5,500 retail, the piece is classic in design, sporting enough soft detailing to demonstrate personality without a loss of timeless appeal.
“Women can layer it in multiple metal types, and it creates an outstanding stacking story,” she adds. In fact, as of press time, the Hearts On Fire store in Las Vegas had already sold multiple Lorelei bangles, though they had only been in-store for a month, according to Beermann.
Daily wear and statement earringsThe trends among more attainable fashion-forward styles of diamond jewelry include pieces ideal for everyday wear, as well as statement earrings and (not surprisingly) more fancy diamond shapes — particularly in cluster varieties. Zoë Chicco of the eponymous Los Angeles diamond- and gold-jewelry house maintains that clients are seeking out “giftable styles in the $500-and-under range.”
Her customers are “in search of pieces that can be worn every day and that layer well with styles they or the person they are buying for already have in their wardrobe,” she says. Her thick curb-chain styles are also popular for their elegant boldness and ability to layer well with more everyday items.
Shoppers with bigger budgets tend to invest in larger, more aspirational styles. These include modern mixes of pears, trillions, marquise, princess and round cuts in Chicco’s Paris collection of mixed fancy-shape diamond jewels, as well as charm necklaces and personalized pieces like initials, engraved discs, or other meaningful symbols.
“Our retailers like the idea that their customers can build a custom necklace or purchase charms à la carte to add to an existing necklace,” she explains. A case in point is Chicco’s Mantra line, with pieces featuring “inspiring phrases that resonate with each person a little differently.” Her own personal mantra? Work hard, stay humble, be kind. “This phrase has kept me grounded through life’s ups and downs,” she says.
For Melissa Kaye, best sellers will most likely hail from her Aria collection of diamond-intense, melody-inspired styles — graceful numbers executed in 18-karat gold, some with pops of color, starting at $950 retail. So far this year, Kaye is noticing a softening middle market: “Lower price points for easy giftables and self-purchases are on one end, and high-price-point, luxurious fine-jewelry splurges are on the other end.”
At this higher end, New York-based jeweler Gumuchian is still selling its convertible pieces starting at $15,000 retail, and is increasing its statement-earring offerings. Look to its new Black Tie style, with its graphic outline and bead-set diamonds. “They have a lot of movement because the bottom portion swings freely,” explains company co-owner Myriam Gumuchian.
Pearls, cuffs and bold necklacesIn the non-diamond jewelry category, pearls of all types, long earrings, and cuffs are having a prominent moment.
Gizzi notes the strength of pearls in the market, as do Hisano Shepherd of pearl-centric jeweler little h, and Lika Behar of the eponymous firm of Turkish-made designs. Unusual shapes like baroques are getting the most attention, while preferred styles include long strand necklaces, statement pendants, unusual settings, and dangling, dramatic earrings.
“We always sell out of one-of-a-kind mountings that complement the shapes of large freshwater pearls with their color nuances,” explains Behar. She even points out a commonality between turquoise — one of her favorite gems — and pearls: “They flatter every color complexion.”
Behar continues to do well with turquoise, especially the Sleeping Beauty variety, which is rare and in demand due to the closure of its namesake mine. “The veined Kingman turquoise is also popular due to its more casual, denim-friendly aesthetic,” she says.
In general, price points under $3,000 are strong. “It is all about fitting in with casual dress,” says Behar. Her best advice to that end is going with large cuffs and long, big, bold necklaces, as well as necklaces accented with diamonds and colored stones in dainty but unusual layering, and versatile oxidized silver and gold that work well for both casual and dress attire.
For Shepherd, a price structure similar to Kaye’s is at play, with the popular gift-giving range of $800 to $1,200 at the lower end (including her tiny gemstone-set, Tahitian pearl keshi earrings) and one-of-a-kind, gem-studded pearl geodes from her Grotto collection at the higher end for $5,000 to $6,000. Gems of choice include blue sapphires and rubies.
“People continue to be captivated by the Soufflé pearls carved and set with gemstones at many different angles and sizes,” she comments.
Gizzi, meanwhile, predicts that hoop earrings and longer drop earrings will replace the studs of seasons past, while huggies have the potential to fill second-ear-piercing spots as upsells. Long styles and convertible looks characterize the top necklace designs, and line bracelets could stage a comeback. But no matter what style speaks to your shopper’s tastes, she says, “the $500 to $1,500 price range is key for gift-giving.”
Image: melissakayejewelry.com; heartsonfire.com; gumanchian.com; littlehjewelry.comArticle from the Rapaport Magazine - October 2018. To subscribe click here.