How do you blend your Hawaiian heritage with your New York location in your creations?I was raised in Hawaii, but I am not native Hawaiian. My Chinese family immigrated to Hawaii two generations ago and has been there ever since. Hawaii is inside of my soul and always will be; it has shaped how I think and the energy that I put out into the world. In many ways, New York has as well, but in a different way. Being a New Yorker now, with roots in Hawaii, allows space where things are usually dense. The visual translation of that is easily seen in my designs; open spaces and simple yet surprising interactions between two elements tend to be a part of each of my pieces. I love to design jewelry that interacts with itself as well as its wearer. That is why I work with multi-piece rings or flexible chains. I want my jewelry to be an experience for my clients.
What are your sources of inspiration?Inspiration comes from two different elements. I always have the feel and the visual. I start with how I hope you will emotionally connect with the design, the experience of wearing it, and how the design will engage you over the years you view it. My Minimalist ring is one that does this. I designed it so that you, the owner, will enjoy the experience of it more than anyone. This is why the diamonds are set in the front and back rather than only on the top, because when we look at our hands, they are usually seen from that angle. The visual inspiration is the artist Richard Serra. His giant steel sculptures made from simple slabs of metal are powerful, but also can engage your senses visually, audibly and emotionally. I love his work.
What is the Bliss Lau woman like?They are impossible to describe in one single line. They are often meticulous and thoughtful. They care about the environment and how the products they buy are made. Many...live in a world of New York neutrals, but others love color. And that is why they are drawn to our love of colored gemstones as centerpieces. I like the diversity of people we have passing through the studio. It’s exciting to meet a wide variety of people and know they are attracted to the things we are creating.
How would you describe your custom work? For our custom clients, we ask them a series of questions to learn about their love, how it came to be and what types of things interest them individually and combined. Then we take inspiration from components of their individual personalities and try to meld them with their shared moments to create a ring that represents both of them and the joining of their lives. This process is a bit more esoteric, but truly beautiful and collaborative. It is one of my favorite parts of the design process. I come up with two or three concepts and sketches and send them for approval, then we refine it from there.
For our customized clients, once they choose a stone, they usually already have a style in mind that is in our collection or they have seen us create before that they just want to make a minor change to, in order to accommodate their personalities. This is a bit more straightforward and easy to visualize.
For both versions, we often send sketches or 3D CAD [computer-aided design] renderings to help clients know what they are getting before it is made, but the truth is, it always looks better in person.
Is there a diamond creation you’d like to discuss more in-depth, from concept to realization?We recently made a beautiful ring for a couple. They were really special. They met in a bar and fell in love so quickly that it makes you believe in destiny. He is a mathematician, and they both were interested in the psychology of human behavior. We had been thinking about designing a ring based on The Constitution of Man, and then when the client suggested it as well, we knew it was perfect that we got to make their ring. The pear-shaped diamond was chosen based on its alignment to the Golden Ratio, and his idea as a mathematician. We discussed how I have made several pieces based on the Fibonacci sequence in the past.
The ring ended up being one of [our most diamond-heavy pieces], but we kept [the diamonds] sparingly dispersed as well, each stone placed intentionally to represent a part of the constitution of man — i.e., wisdom, inspiration, instinct, passion, desire, soul. All elements of a relationship meant to be shared and coveted. This was one of my favorite projects to date, and it ended up such a beautiful representation of them!
How do you define ethical jewelry and source your materials accordingly? I strongly believe in the importance of mindful luxury. What we do is a tiny luxury that you get to wear every day, and the provenance and intention around how those materials are found is very important. We use recycled metal and make items with trusted people who treat their employees respectfully and pay them fairly. When we begin vetting our artisans, we have a series of questions that we ask them, and either visit their location, or ask for pictures and videos of their workshops if we cannot travel there yet. We also request credentials and references if possible. Gemstones and materials...take nuance and determination to find. My teaching partner and brand strategist Jasmine Takanikos always says, “We live in a trust economy,” and that holds very true for the process of sourcing. It is important to trust and work with ethical people who cultivate a network of equally trustworthy people.
What are your most iconic pieces?The design style that I use is unique in that I design wedding rings in two pieces, intended to be worn interlocking. Therefore, my clients receive a design intended to symbolize the balance and synchronicity of their relationship. Two rings join together to become one.
What is your latest collection about? Most recently I designed a very personal, autobiographical collection that I very simply called Life. It was in reaction [to] and inspired by the cycle of life and how powerful that is. Much like my traditional work, it had an element of duality within; the birth and death cycle [was] inspired by the loss of my father and the birth of my daughter. I ethically sourced Arkansas crystal quartz to represent new beginnings and birth, and Australian black jade to represent protection and memory. The jade also holds a special place in my heart because I am half Chinese-American and will always have an affinity for it as an ancestral material.
The collection was only three pieces — two pendants and a bracelet. I launched it on the day of my daughter’s birth in celebration of her. It was beautiful.
What is your most cherished personal item of jewelry?Must I only choose one?! Of course, it is my wedding ring, the piece I designed that was the doorway to finding my true passion. The design that I now have a patent on, and the jewelry that represents the bond and love between myself and my partner.
blisslau.com Article from the Rapaport Magazine - December 2018. To subscribe click here.