Pearls are being touted as the hottest gem in jewelry, accessories and fashion design today. A favorite on runways and red carpets, they are versatile enough to accent business- and beachwear, cocktail dresses and jeans.
Harper’s Bazaar pointed to pearls in 2017 as “having a major moment in beauty” because of their popularity in hair accessories, makeup and skincare. Just this past December,
The Wall Street Journal laid out for its readers “How Classic Pearls Became Improbably Hip.”
By incorporating the gems in apparel and accessories, fashion houses such as Gucci, Dior and Chanel, Stella McCartney, Oscar de la Renta and Prabal Gurung have contributed to their popularity worldwide. Designers have reimagined pearls on everything from denim and jackets to shoes and handbags, influencing consumers’ shopping choices.
The world is their oyster
Fashion influencers, celebrities and royalty are championing pearls as appropriate to pair with any outfit, posting photos of themselves sporting the gem on social media, especially on Instagram.
“Millennials in particular are so in tune with pop culture and constantly connected with social media, where they are repeatedly seeing these fabulous figures wearing pearls,” says Dana Cali, who is in charge of marketing and communications for New York-based pearl jeweler Mastoloni. “One way they can feel more connected to or like the figures they admire is to dress like them, buy the same jewelry as them, use the same products and brands.”
Kathy Grenier, vice president of business development at Imperial Pearls in Providence, Rhode Island, finds talk about pearls being “back in style” ridiculous. “Pearls have never disappeared. They have never been out of fashion,” she stresses. “What has happened and continues to happen is that designers have rethought jewelry design, from classic to cutting-edge, creating new looks that have introduced us all to a new era of design.”
Noteworthy examples of pearl design turned on its head are the creations of Little h by Hisano Shepherd. The Los Angeles designer slices freshwater “soufflé” pearls and lines the inside with precious gemstones to mimic a geode, hollows them out to arrange gems in a manner that resembles a crystal-lined grotto, or sets a gem sprouting out from the pearl, as in her Point collection.
“I am attracted to the idea of jewelry taking different roles other than simply ornamentation,” Shepherd shares. “Ideas such as jewelry suggesting garment, taking over the body of the wearer, and breaking out of the traditional role of adornment enthrall me. The shift in scale and the use of traditional and non-traditional material in jewelry-making allows me to challenge these ideas. I explore forms and ideas of jewelry through texture, color and composition.”
Grenier considers pearls the only gem that can effortlessly shift from casual to couture. “Pearls are not about flash, never upstaging the wearer or out of place for the situation,” she comments. “Pearls draw people in, radiating a warmth and life that cannot be found in any other gemstone.”
She celebrates the multiple personalities pearls possess — from powerful to poised to playful and more. “There isn’t any situation that’s not good for pearls. I don’t think you can say that about diamonds.”
A penchant for versatility
Pearls effortlessly complement any metal, gem or design elements paired with them, underscores Grenier, and they can easily layer with other jewels, contributing to their popularity. The variety of pearls offers wearers the opportunity to create something fun, wearable and affordable.
In particular, she notes the versatility of long necklaces, lariat styles, and transformable jewelry that connects in a variety of ways or has moving parts. “Taking things apart and putting them back together or moving design elements on a chain allows the wearer to customize her look,” she says.
The jewelry trending today is more convertible, everyday and fashion-forward, concurs Mastoloni’s Cali. Among the most popular items are hoop earrings in all sizes and styles; simple, chain necklaces for layering; geometric cage pendants with removable pearls; and tassel earrings and pendants with black and white diamonds. She also cites unusual shape and color combinations, and open-style rings that can be worn stacked or on their own.
Colorful and casual
Jewelry designer Julie Romanenko of Just Jules in Scottsdale, Arizona, is a huge fan of pearls. “I’m in awe of the process of how they are created and the amazing shapes and colors they come in,” she enthuses. “I love how they take on the warmth of my skin after I wear them. They are so classic, but also such a great canvas for modern designs.”
One of her most popular designs is a long Tahitian baroque pearl necklace she creates in a range of grey colors that can be worn as a single or double strand. “I love the baroque shapes because they are more casual and contemporary,” Romanenko explains. “These Tahitian pearls convey subtle beauty in their warm luminescence — that’s what makes them so versatile!”
While pearls set in silver are a mainstay in the market, there’s more demand for those paired with yellow and rose gold.
“Our fashion jewelry is predominantly in yellow gold, but we’re creating more designs in rose gold,” says Cali.
Simplicity and nature, with organic and geometric influences, are inspiring Mastoloni’s current design directions. “Nothing too busy or impractical; traditional or classic designs updated with a modern twist. Customers want pieces that are more everyday, as opposed to special-occasion,” she says. She hints at a new collection coming out in June that combines moonstones with pearls.
Grenier says Imperial Pearls is creating more designs in rose gold as well, with a new series featuring morganite and akoya or pink freshwater pearls and diamonds. The brand is also launching new akoya and yellow-gold contemporary and classic designs, with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires.
“We’ve been introducing a ton of new gold pieces that are light, airy, fresh and priced right,” she says.
For designer Brenda Smith of Woodstock, Georgia, the pairing of pearls with gemstones is a signature design direction. “My designs use pearls in unexpected ways, with dimension and gemstone enhancements,” she relates.
She is especially fascinated by the gems’ history and journey. “I find that as I educate my clients about pearls and their growth process, they gain an even greater appreciation for the gem. Pearl is the only gemstone from natural, organic origin. Each one is as unique and fascinating as you and me.”
Image: Little h 14-karat yellow-gold freshwater souffle pearl pendant with emeralds / Imperial Pearls ring with white baroque freshwater cultured pearl and white topaz, set in sterling silver. Article from the Rapaport Magazine - February 2019. To subscribe click here.