Rapaport Magazine
Style & Design

Crazy for cameos


Carved in stone or shell, these textured classics are making a comeback.

By Rachael Taylor


So on-point was Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty lingerie show during New York Fashion Week that it was widely heralded as the death knell of that industry behemoth, Victoria’s Secret. Of course, the latter runway show was already facing accusations of being out of touch with real women, but the key takeaway from the music icon’s display was clear: Rihanna knows what’s trending. And her next move was a line of Fenty costume jewels starring cameos.

Cameos date back to 300 BCE in Alexandria, Egypt, and have fluttered in and out of fashion since. They were especially popular in the Victorian and Roman eras. Early examples show historic scenes or portraits carved into stone, but sardonyx seashells later proved to be an ideal canvas, with two layers of color.

Today, cameos are getting a new lease on life. The traditional Roman- and Grecian-style portraits remain popular; upcycled or repro cameos are often juxtaposed with contemporary settings. Modern iterations of the cameos themselves are also working their way in, such as photo-realistic portraits of kids or pets, or quirky scenes such as memento mori-inspired skulls. Materials are shifting as well: Artists are applying cameo-like carving to gemstones like chalcedony and coral, providing a refreshing facelift for this classic style.

Hannah Martin x Simon Teakle
Connecticut-based antique dealer Simon Teakle sourced an original cameo for this 18-karat white gold and diamond ring.


Daphne Krinos
One-of-a-kind coral cameo in an 18-karat yellow gold and diamond ring, for Tomfoolery’s Art Ring project.


Catherine Opie x Lizworks
Self Portrait Nursing sardonyx cameo in an 18-karat rose gold setting with orange sapphires, grey diamonds, rubies, labradorite and grey pearls.


Olithica
Hermes with Lyre ring in 18-karat yellow gold with a hand-carved chalcedony intaglio inspired by an ancient Greek original.


Lydia Courteille
Skull and crossbones cameo earrings in 18-karat white gold with diamonds and moonstones.


Amedeo
Endless Love sardonyx shell cameo necklace in 18-karat gold and silver with rubies, black diamonds and brown diamonds.


Anna Porcu
Leather bracelet adorned with an antique shell cameo depicting Mercury, in a gold, silver, onyx and diamond setting.


Image: Stocksy

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - February 2020. To subscribe click here.

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