Between the eternal and the ephemeral

Boasting 400 jewels, watches and precious objects, the “Van Cleef & Arpels: Time, Nature, Love” exhibition presents the 114-year-old French maison’s high-jewelry creations in Italy for the first time. Here are some of the highlights.

Ballerina Clip, 1945

Louis Arpels’s passion for ballet and the opera inspired the creation of the first ballerina clips in 1941 in New York, and in Paris the following year. This motif is repeated on a variety of objects, from bracelets, earrings and necklaces to cufflinks, boxes and corset buttons. The face, always made with a rose-cut diamond, lightens the ballerina’s silhouette, with her elaborate dresses of golden tulle or precious-gem pavé.

Zip Necklace, 1951

One of the most iconic jewels by Van Cleef, the Zip necklace also represents one of the jeweler’s most avant-garde creations. Its origins go back to the 1930s, when the duchess of Windsor apparently suggested the idea of a zipper-inspired jewel to Renée Puissant, the maison’s artistic director. Sliding the necklace’s gem-set tassel transforms it into a bracelet. This specific piece is among the first of its kind that Van Cleef & Arpels created.

Spirit of Beauty Fairy Clip, 1941

This is the first example of a fairy clip by Van Cleef & Arpels, representing the house’s enchanted universe and symbolizing joy and hope. This piece was acquired by Countess Haugwitz-Reventlow, otherwise known as Barbara Hutton.

Pivoine Clip, 1937

An example of a Van Cleef & Arpels mystery setting, this platinum and yellow gold clip features rubies and diamonds. Formerly part of the collection of Princess Faiza of Egypt, it was acquired by Jacques Arpels at Christie’s in 1985.

Minaudière Volute, 1935

The inspiration for this daytime/nighttime clutch was Florence Jay Gould, the wife of railroad tycoon Frank Jay Gould. After seeing her put all her vanity items in a cigarette case, Charles Arpels had the idea of creating a luxurious case with an ingenious compartment system. Its features include space or a compact, a lighter, a tortoiseshell comb and a pill box.

Image: Patrick Gries

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - February 2020. To subscribe click here.

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