Rapaport Magazine
Style & Design

Their chance to shine


These 16 up-and-coming creators were supposed to showcase their works for the first time at the Couture show’s Designer Atelier in Las Vegas. Here they share their stories, their influences, and the jewels they were most looking forward to presenting.

By Sonia Esther Soltani


BareDesigner: Dries Criel

Style: “Redefining classics in a contemporary form. Shapes are studied, reimagined and revived to enhance beauty and blend the timeless with the contemporary.”

Jewelry career:“I started working, as a student, in the diamond and jewelry business in Antwerp when I was 20 years old. Work became passion; combined with a natural aesthetic and self-study, [this led me to take] the leap to telling my own fine-jewelry story.”

Design icons: “To combine fashion and jewelry and to celebrate a unique family, I would say Hubert and James de Givenchy.”

Sourcing: “Every piece of the Bare collection is handmade (or finished) in Antwerp. I am blessed to be able to work with the finest ateliers and diamond dealers in the world.”

Your planned Couture headliner: “Because the collection really captures the essence of the brand, I was really looking forward to presenting my new Bond Signature Collection, a collection around the redefined gourmette link, celebrating ‘freedom of mind.’”


Walters FaithDesigners: Stephanie Abramow and Mollie Good 

Style: “Bold jewelry that is classically modern yet simple, consisting of clean lines with an everyday wearability.”

Jewelry career: Good says, “Starting from college at the University of Michigan, I enrolled in metalsmithing classes and immediately fell in love with jewelry design and manufacturing. I expanded on my studies after college, attending the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), and after that I got the best [hands-on] education you can get working for Fred Leighton.”

Abramow says, “Mollie and I met when she hired me working for another fine jewelry brand. We overlapped for only six-plus months but formed a nice friendship and rapport. Years later, we decided to partner to create a collection of fine jewelry that is both accessible and wearable. Walters Faith is the combination of our middle names, showing just how personal this collection is to both of us.”

Design icons: “JAR, Taffin, Suzanne Belperron, Aerin Lauder.”

Favorite cuts: “Our favorite cut is a toss-up between round brilliants, emeralds and ovals. ”

Your planned Couture headliner: “We were most looking forward to introducing our newest Thoby collection to buyers. Thoby is an updated version of our Clive collection, which is inspired by architectural columns. As a brand, we love versatility, and the Thoby rings can be worn with the opening face-up to expose a glimpse of diamonds or face-down as a cigar band ring.”


Luciana & Yasmim Designers: Luciana Narciso and Yasmim Passos

Style: “A combination of our visual memory and interpretation of historic references such as curves, edges, color palettes from inspiring works of art, monuments and even nature.”

Jewelry career: “We began as friends who united their passion for/obsession with art and history to create wearable art. Our first pieces were made by our own hands in goldsmith classes in [Brazilian capital] Brasilia. After that, we graduated in jewelry design at the European Institute of Design in São Paulo. We are constantly drawing and experimenting with new techniques of art [in] our routine, and that has a great influence on our pieces.”

Design icons: “Fernando Jorge, Ara Vartanian, Ana Khouri and Silvia Furmanovich.”

Sourcing: “Today, most of our gemstones come from São Paulo. We choose each one personally and very carefully; we can say it’s one of our favorite parts of the process. Brazil is very abundant in terms of gems, so we are very privileged to have such a great variety of marvelous gems here.”

Your planned Couture headliner: “Our Venus ring. For us, it is an important symbol for the brand and what it represents. A combination of art and architecture translated into wearable art in its minimal details.”


AzleeDesigner: Baylee Zwart

Style: “Influenced by the French Art Deco era combined with ancient civilizations, interpreted through a minimal, approachable lens.”

Jewelry career: “I interned at Glamour and Allure magazines in New York, then moved to Guatemala to work for a fair-trade nonprofit with local artisans. It was there on the shores of Lake Atitlan that I began to study the art of jewelry metalworking and was immediately enamored...of being able to sculpt pieces from the ground up that can be worn every day and passed down from generation to generation. I was living there alone, so aside from work, I had endless time to explore my new passion, which was such a blessing.”

Design icons: “The ancient Greeks, Blakstad interior design, Cate Holstein of Khaite, [and] I’m obsessed with Art Deco furniture designers.”

Sourcing: “I source [my rare-cut diamonds] from collections I’ve built relationships with that are all over the world. I’ve fallen in love with the notion that I can give clients high-quality white diamonds that are in completely nontraditional shapes and cuts, and that are truly one of a kind. Many of the stones I offer clients are vintage, and I love that we can put them in modern, clean settings to create a relevant piece.”

Your planned Couture headliner: “We were designing some really unusual one-of-a-kind pieces with our signature rare-cut diamonds that I was very excited to debut! These were a bit more elaborate than some of our previous one-of-a-kind pieces.”


Dale HernsdorfDesigner: Dale Hernsdorf

Style: “I’m drawn to the sensuality of gold — the way it feels in the hand and on the skin — so there’s an abundance of it in my jewels. My pieces feel decadent and special, yet still comfortable, as fitting with jeans and a T-shirt as they are on a red carpet.”

Jewelry career: “I began as a painter and photographer, then worked for some time as a graphic designer and illustrator. When I stumbled upon my first metalsmithing class, however, I knew I had found my art form.”

Design icons: “I admire Hemmerle’s sheer inventiveness and existence utterly beyond trend.”

Sourcing: “I have close relationships with my gem dealers, who are directly connected to responsible mines and cutters, thus ensuring traceability of each gemstone’s journey into my hands.”

Your planned Couture headliner: “The Harness necklace, hand-wrought in 22-karat gold with a deep blue, 19.7-carat tanzanite that is just incredible, really embodies my design aesthetic and appreciation for detail.”


ArtemerDesigners: Tanya and Tomer Mikaeilyn

Style: “Elegant, geometric, unexpected, balanced.”

Jewelry career: Tomer says, “I knew I wanted to work with physical materials and acquire a craft that combines [different types of] art. I loved the possibility of working with natural substances like gold, copper, silver and gemstones — so this is what drew me to apply to the Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design in Jerusalem, [Israel,] to gain a BFA in jewelry design. Tanya went to the same academy, but studied fine art. I am the one who pulled her into jewelry design, after graduation.”

Design icons: “Dan Alsberg, a Jerusalem-based jewelry designer, was our very first jewelry design icon and a major inspiration.”

Sourcing: “We are very lucky to be located in one of the world’s largest diamond centers [in Israel], so we have our pick of suppliers.”

Your planned Couture headliner: “The Crescent Moon ring, which features a combination of diamond cuts that you’d never expect to go together. We love the sharp baguettes with the organic shapes of the round diamond.”


RennaDesigner: Renna Brown-Taher

Style: “Easy elegance with a quirky twist.”

Jewelry career: “I started as an administrator at Sotheby’s American Art department, all the while finishing my gemology degree on the side, before moving to the jewelry department. Initially, I dabbled in costume jewelry before creating my signature gold shell collection inspired by a bracelet that my mother had made for me out of coffee bean shells — the most beautiful and meaningful piece of jewelry I own.”

Design icons: “James de Givenchy, who pushes the boundaries of what we expect to see in jewelry, rewriting the rules while still being elegant.”

Sourcing: “Our workshop works with a US-based company that does the whole recycling process, from start to finish, in-house.”

Your planned Couture headliner: “I was most excited to show everyone the intricate shells that we create. They are 360-degree works of art.”


Meredith Young Designer: Meredith Young

Style: “Built on opposed visual aesthetics: positive and negative space, historical forms and modern forms, the geometric and the organic. The resulting style is ethereal and provocative.”

Jewelry career: “My high school had a silversmithing program and art history program. I started making jewelry at age 16, learning to fuse fine silver and solder fairly complex architectural sterling silver boxes. I planned to go back to art school for painting after going to college for art history, but instead I went for jewelry making.”

Design icons: “Alexander McQueen — his pieces were heavily researched, which allowed him to utilize historical fragments, subject matter and techniques but put them into a modern, edgy context — [and] Renee

Lewis, who also fuses the past with the present. I was exposed to her work during the end of my college years. Her work propelled me to become a goldsmith.”

Sourcing: “I ask a lot of questions and get a lot of references. I support companies like Columbia Gems and Parlé Gems, [which] make the mining and cutting process very transparent.”

Your planned Couture headliner: “My dot medallion in the Controlled Chaos collection. The combination of different-shaped diamonds and their resulting pattern creates an outward movement like the birth of a star.”


ShiharaDesigner: Yuta Ishihara

Style: “With minimal decorative elements, the unconventional yet functional structures seamlessly connect [with] the body to enhance beauty.”

Jewelry career: “I studied jewelry design in Tokyo, and in 2008 began designing and producing custom jewelry. In 2010, I established my jewelry brand Shihara.”

Design icons: “I’m a fan of functional design and tend to be drawn to things that have both a beautiful form and a functional purpose, where everything makes sense together.”

Sourcing: “The gold and diamonds of my jewels are all sourced from Japanese vendors.”

Your planned Couture headliner: “The Un-Signet Rough Diamond ring, based on the classic Shihara Signet ring style but incorporating a naturally octahedral uncut rough diamond that is set in such a way that allows all eight sides of the stone to be seen.”


AnanyaDesigner: Ananya Malhotra

Style: “Timeless yet bold in color, texture and combination of precious materials.”

Jewelry career: “I grew up in India, where jewelry holds significant importance at ceremonies and in culture. For me, it is personal and carries great sentiment, and I went on to discover my true passion when studying at Central Saint Martins [in London] and the GIA.”

Design icons: “Maharani Gayatri Devi; I admired her style and boldness. She was a true change maker. Marina Bulgari, another industry tastemaker; she was revolutionary, and her jewelry was way ahead of her time with her bold and brave use of color and cuts.”

Sourcing: “My sourcing process is unique to each of my designs. I believe honesty is key [to] the process, as well as understanding the origin and certifying my gemstones, and thus I have long-standing relationships with gemstone experts who support me [throughout] the entire sourcing process.”

Your planned Couture headliner: “The Panjshir, a ring featuring a 15.35-carat Afghan emerald from the Panjshir mine, set in hand-cut crystal and diamonds.”


Campbellian CollectionDesigner: Bella Campbell

Style: “Colors complementing each other, creating fresh, bold and unexpected results.”

Jewelry career: “I have always designed jewelry for myself and my sisters, then for my close friends and their friends. I was getting lots of compliments. Eight years ago, I decided to [submit] my piece to AGTA’s Spectrum Award competition — and I won! Since then, I have won eight Spectrum Awards.”

Design icons: “JAR, Wallace Chan and Fabergé.”

Sourcing: “I have been a gem dealer for most of my life and have a deep-rooted love for colored stones. They are necessary for my creativity; they do inspire me. I design around them, so I always look at gemstones, and I have developed a vast knowledge of the market and many true friendships. I source gemstones through them.”

Your planned Couture headliner: “The Rainbow Moonstone and Denim Blue Sapphire bracelet in 18-karat gold, accented with diamonds, that won first place at AGTA’s 2019 Spectrum Awards in the bridal category.”


M. SpaltenDesigner: Melissa Spalten

Style: “Playful, colorful, joyful.”

Jewelry career: “I studied retail merchandising in college, and realized around the time I was graduating that I was much more interested in designing things and making them than I was in the business side of things. So I moved to Los Angeles to study jewelry design at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising (FIDM). There, I fell in love with fine jewelry design, and founded M.Spalten just after graduating.”

Design icons: “Tony Duquette, Victoire de Castellane, Lydia Courteille and Arunashi.”

Sourcing: “I absolutely love opals. It’s really difficult to buy an opal without seeing it in person, so I source my opals in Tucson, [Arizona,] during the gem shows.”

Your planned Couture headliner: “I was really looking forward to showing the expansion of my Gemdrop collection, which debuted last summer and has since become my best-seller.”


Lizzie MandlerDesigner: Lizzie Mandler

Style: “Structural minimalism. My pieces are meant to be your favorite white T-shirt: comfortable, familiar, the perfect fit and a staple in your wardrobe.”

Jewelry career: “I designed my first piece of jewelry when I was 12, for my middle school graduation. After diving into beading and semi-precious jewelry for four years, I took a soft-wax carving class when I was 16 and never really looked back.”

Design icons: “Elsa Peretti was a huge influence on me growing up. My mom had several of her pieces, and they all seemed to have a certain flow to them.”

Sourcing: “I’m lucky enough to have developed some amazing relationships throughout the years with various diamond and gem dealers, many of which I’ve worked with since I was 16 — most of whom I only get to see twice a year (in Tucson and Vegas).”

Your planned Couture headliner: “I created a series of new cuffs with half-carat stones in them. The stones stagger so that when layered, they all stack and fit together, and when worn alone, the stones are off-center.”


Alina AbeggDesigner: Alina Abegg

Style: “Bold, playful, with a touch of nostalgia.”

Jewelry career: “I have always been captivated by gemstones, but at first kept it as a side passion. While studying fashion business, I started to notice that I was having lots of jewelry ideas. So I decided to give it a serious shot by applying for the design course at the GIA in New York. After my first day in the course, I knew this was my calling.”

Design icons: “At the moment, I am in love with the work of Mexican artist Pedro Reyes. I am fascinated by the way he combines geometric shapes and turns them into something practical.”

Sourcing: “When I first started the brand, I quickly realized the enormous environmental footprint of the jewelry industry. Wanting to change the direction, I soon became dedicated to finding sustainable solutions for every part of the design, production and even business process.”

Your planned Couture headliner: “The Maxi Rainbow Pfefferminz earrings in 14-karat rose gold set with peridot, pink opal, yellow agate, lavender chalcedony and rubellite.”


Carolina NevesDesigner: Carolina Neves

Style: “Jewelry with meaning. The woman on the go [is] my main inspiration.”

Jewelry career: “I started as a designer in college. I had access to the market and first decided to personalize a few [ready-made pieces of] jewelry. After that, my inspirations and imagination started to fly naturally.”

Favorite stone: “Emerald is my favorite one. We look for gemstones that have their own shine, and the possibilities that it can have together with other gemstones.”

Your planned Couture headliner: “An emerald earring which was a redesign made as a collaboration with Muse Showroom and Gemfields. It is one of our best-sellers, redesigned specifically [for] Couture 2018. It was a success.”


NevernotDesigners: Nina Dzhokhadze and Natia Chkhartishvili

Style: “Very colorful and very easy to wear, both during the day and during the nighttime.”

Jewelry career: “After many, many years in the jewelry and fashion industry, we have always wanted to create a brand that resonated with our style and [was also accessible at] fine-jewelry price points. The idea came in 2017, and since designing our first pieces, we’ve never stopped, and enjoy each day of working together.”

Design icons: Chkhartishvili picks Victoire de Castellane, Christian Dior’s creative director for fine jewelry, while Dzhokhadze says, “I really love Fernando Jorge pieces. He is a true talent, and each piece is like a work of art.”

Sourcing: “We make most of our pieces in our hometown, with our workshop in Tbilisi, Georgia, where Natia lives at the moment and oversees the production and design process. Many pieces we create are hand-enameled in London, UK.”

Your planned Couture headliner: “The Eye ring, which was designed and fresh from the workshop in March, would have been a new piece at Couture.”


Images: Dale Hernsdorf, Lizzie Mandler, Ananya

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