Creative expression can take many forms. While Vincent Perugini had studied painting and drawing, he knew he didn’t have the skill set to be an artist. Instead he focused his talent on “creating an intimate environment that emulates a city experience in the suburbs” at Vincents Fine Jewelry in Pelham, New York.
“Right from the start, I decided that the brand and ambience would convey relaxed luxury,” says Perugini. “Music is playing, we’re wearing jeans — not suits — and my dog, Cooper, a cavapoo [poodle and cavalier King Charles spaniel mix] is a fan favorite. The clients appreciate a luxurious experience with concierge service, but in a laid-back setting. And it’s how I like to shop, too.”
Pelham is also a place where Perugini, a city dweller, feels “very much at home.” Located in Westchester, about 30 minutes from Manhattan, the diverse community is “more urban than suburban.” Many of the residents are originally from New York City (pre-pandemic) or from elsewhere around the country. Perugini describes their style as “understated elegance that often flies under the radar.”
Back to his roots
Perugini honed his brand-building skills as part of fashion house Fendi’s internal marketing team. However, at a crossroads in his career after losing his job during the Great Recession, he accepted a marketing position at a jewelry retailer. He eventually decided to channel his efforts into a business of his own. In 2017, he opened Vincents.
His career journey brought him back to his roots. The store is named in honor of his grandfather, who opened a jewelry store after emigrating from Italy. And Perugini’s father, Thomas, is a diamond manufacturer.
Always guided by what appeals to his clients, Perugini applies a fine eye to selecting and curating assortments. There is a caveat: He has to be passionate about the jewelry as well. He chooses pieces that give clients an “advance look at what hasn’t yet come to the ’burbs,” but tastes — not trends — are the top criteria. “A lot of my clients are looking for everyday wear. We carry special-occasion pieces, but not in-your-face bling.”
Streamlined space
“Streamlining” takes precedence over “overwhelming” clients. Perugini is adamantly against “flooding” cases with items piled on top of each other. But he keeps an eye on the bottom line. “I want to bring in lines that already have traction in the market, but I don’t want to take away from the lines we already carry,” he explains. “Sometimes, it’s a double-edged sword.”
The decision of whether to use memo or direct purchase often depends on how fast he believes the jewelry will move. “When you are making a hard investment, you want to know that you can turn the product. If I have some hesitation, I’ll start by bringing in a small memo assortment or test the jewelry on our website. Then the designer and I can revisit it in 90 days.”
He has also taken the pulse of his clients regarding trunk shows. “We’re not a trunk show-driven space. We would rather take in a line for five days without the designer or rep here. It’s less pressure for our clients, who can come in at their leisure.” However, he makes an exception for designer Ray Griffiths, who “really puts on a show.”
Special events often have a more sophisticated feel. Select clients were recently invited to a fashion show and private shopping night at the Bronx’s Bartow-Pell mansion. The museum’s Greek revival architecture was the backdrop for personal style consultations with Tibi designer Amy Smilovic.
Shifting shopping patterns
Perugini is “forging ahead” and trying to be optimistic about the holiday season. He hasn’t observed any post-shutdown trends that would necessitate bringing in new inventory, but he has noticed a shift in shopping patterns. “Clients used to pop in and browse. But now they’ve become accustomed to using the website. Then they come in and say, ‘I know exactly what I want. It fits. I like it. I’m buying it and getting out of here.’”
Perugini has seen a “huge uptick” in traffic since Vincents opened, observing that “the client is getting more familiar and comfortable with us.”
He recalls one couple shopping for wedding bands. International and well-traveled, they had decided to get married after living together for 25 years. The woman selected a “misshapen” tourmaline band. But what resonated most was their telling him the store reminded them of Fragments, the now-shuttered SoHo store that launched many new designers. “It meant so much that they felt that vibe,” he says. “Vincents was built from the ground up. I didn’t know where it would go, and it has been truly humbling to see the response.”
vincents-ny.com
Images: Ray Griffiths; Vincents; Amy Glaswand; Storrow
Article from the Rapaport Magazine - October 2020. To subscribe click here.