Symbol of power, representation of royalty, talisman against evil…these are just some of the many roles the snake has played in various cultures through the ages. But it was during the Victorian era, which stretched from 1837 through 1901, that the snake motif became a part of the modern jewelry vocabulary.
“There is a myth that the popularity of the snake in the mid-nineteenth century originated from Queen Victoria’s wedding ring from Albert, an Ouroboros or snake biting its own tail, which was a symbol of eternity and renewal,” explains Lisa Stockhammer-Mial, president,
The Three Graces, an online retailer of fine antique and estatejewelry. “However, according to the late jewelry historian Christie Romero, who performed detailed research, that ring has never been located and no record of it exists.” Whether the story is real or apocryphal, the fact remains that Victorians embraced the idea of the snake in all its glory.
According to jewelry historian Judith Anderson, president of Bijoux Extraordinaire and the Jewelry Experts, Manchester, New Hampshire, the snake was considered “a talisman for luck and a symbol of love,” represented by the full circle made when the snake is shown biting its tail. Another type of snake theme, which was very significant, she points out, was two entwined snakes.“Wrapped together, they loosely translated as a man and woman, a couple, who would be together forever.”
Suzanne Martinez, Lang Antique & Estate Jewelry, San Francisco, California, says “snake jewelry has had an appeal over time for many different reasons. During the Georgian and Victorian periods, the snake represented the cycle of life and death and was a popular motif.”
Moreover, says Jeff Russak, owner, Lawrence Jeffrey Estate Jewelers, Litchfield, Connecticut, “Snakes in Victorian parlance represented truth and fidelity and were symbolic of friendship. Rather than the more modern evil connotation, serpent jewelry then had a very positive meaning.”
Difference is in the Details
While some serpent motifs were borrowed from classical antiquities, the Victorians reinterpreted them, says Stockhammer-Mial, often embellishing them with gems and diamonds. “Some, in fact, have a surprising mid-twentieth-century abstract form,” she says. “Others are quite realistic, with details including the pattern of the snakeskin, depiction of eyes or tongues.”
Victorian snakes are full-bodied and more naturalistic, says Anderson. “They differed from Art Nouveau examples, which were more romantic and free flowing, and from Art Deco serpents, which were attenuated with harsher, more dramatic lines, with influences from Chinese and Asian art styles.”
“We see snake jewelry being made again in the 1940s,” points out Martinez, in what was a Victorian retrospective period. “Plain gold as well as gemstones, diamonds and enamel embellishments were used in both the old and newer snake jewelry.”
In fact, some 1940s bracelets look almost identical to late Victorian pieces, points out Audrey Friedman, owner, Primavera Gallery, New York City. But, she says, you can tell them apart. “The 1940s bracelet was done with casting and it would be a lot heavier. Another giveaway is that the granulation and the wirework, rather than being applied by hand as it would be in a Victorian piece, might be incorporated into a casting,” something you can see, she says, with a loupe.
The Glitter of Gemstones
Experts agree that almost all types of gemstones were represented in snake jewelry — precious to semiprecious. “You see a lot of the serpent necklaces set with cabochon turquoise, and sometimes the heads are sapphires, or it might have some diamonds and/or sapphires and rubies interspersed,” says Friedman.
“You saw kite-shaped emeralds and diamonds used in the head,” says Russak. “And for the eyes, rubies or emeralds, or occasionally tsavorite garnets. The body of the snake most often was gold.”
Anderson points out the use of coral, turquoise, garnet and natural pearls, “and, quite often, enamel work. And during the later Victorian period, you’d see diamonds used in the eyes and along the back.”
Snakes show up in all types of jewelry, in all degrees of complexity. Gold Victorian serpent rings might wrap once, twice or three times around the finger, says Friedman, adorned with detailing that included “the wiggly end of the tail, or the fangs and tongue coming out.”
In some of the jewelry, points out Stockhammer-Mial, the serpent motif is worked into the design in such a subtle way that it isn’t readily apparent until you look at the piece for a while. And then there are “exquisite snake necklaces with the snake biting its tail, usually enamel and gem studded, many bracelets and rings. A bit more scarce are earrings.” Stickpins were also common, says Anderson, and cufflinks with serpents.
In the Marketplace
There are still a number of fine examples of Victorian snake jewelry available, says Stockhammer-Mial, “in almost every price range: from hair jewelry with snakes to base metal jewelry to the finest diamond and precious gem-set snakes. Frequently you see whimsical and fine snake rings inset with diamonds or gems.” But she admits that “it is harder to find gold and enamel gem-set necklaces and their prices have risen dramatically.”
In terms of price points, Russak says he’s sold “Victorian snake pieces anywhere from $300 or $400, all the way up to $12,000 to $15,000. And, certainly, there are pieces that are much more expensive.”
Perennial Favorite
Stockhammer-Mial finds rings are “a perennial favorite, and we always try to have bracelets and rings. But really, any form of snake-themed jewelry is sought after. It resonates in a strong way with individuals. Clients seem either to love snake jewelry, or not want anything to do with it.”
Anderson finds snake jewelry “turns very quickly, we can’t really maintain a stock. When we come across snake jewelry, we’ll buy it, because it sells. Some designs, like the multiple snakes, are very desirable.” And, she points out, the appeal is broad. “We will sell pieces to couples who are getting married.
The woman gets a ring and the man might get cufflinks.”Victorian snake jewelry, says Russak, “is very popular — it always sells. I rarely have fewer than three or four pieces in stock at any given time. Used as friendship gifts in the Victorian era, today, serpent jewelry is perceived as unusual or exotic.” Moreover, he points out, “You continually see snake jewelry in photographs in major fashion magazines. Whether it’s a modern Bulgari piece or Victorian jewelry being worn, snake jewelry is very relevant to today’s fashion.”
*Pictured: Victorian coiled snake bracelet with light yellow diamond, ruby, blue enamel and 14-karat gold, circa mid-1800's. Photo courtesy Lang Antique & Estate Jewelry.
Article from the Rapaport Magazine - April 2011. To subscribe click here.