RAPAPORT... The lapidaries’ art is best showcased in intricate carvings with appeal for jewelry connoisseurs.
The more things change, the more they remain the same, penned the renowned nineteenth-century journalist Alphonse Karr. And while the phrase may sound more profound, or at least more sophisticated, in its original French, the application is, of course, broad. When admiring the growing trend toward gemstone caving, this expression appears spot on. From the Tucson Gem and Mineral Shows to regional trade shows touring the U.S., both tony designers and high-volume manufacturers are offering stunningly carved jewels in their latest collections.
The earliest efforts in gem carving took the form of engraving the names of rulers or religious sayings into rare stones. A most extravagant example of such work is found in a superb engraved diamond upon which an elaborately decorative Arabic script covers the entire elongated oval-cushion face, which is surrounded by a row of jade and then encircled with a row of ruby. The carved jewel belonged to Mumtaz-i-Mahal, the legendarily beloved wife of Shah Jahan, builder of the Taj Mahal that honors her. This important seventeenth-century carved diamond eventually found its way into the collection of Elizabeth Taylor, a gift from Richard Burton. Little speculation is needed to sort out that it took a diamond stylus to engrave upon the other diamond.
From the first to third centuries, Roman jewelers relied upon the stones available to them, but also selected stones that lent themselves to dimensional workmanship. Carnelian and shell were particularly favored gem choices when depicting Roman rulers and various gods and mythological heroes. Most early cameos were carved from shells; the layers of color found in the shell itself work with the carvings to further enhance the impression of depth and showcase minute details.
MARKET VALUEA jewelry auction is an ideal place to inspect the intricate workmanship and the attention to detailing found in older carved gems. Auctions sell one-of-a-kind jewelry that is, for the most part, impossible to replicate today. Leslie Hindman Auctioneers, Chicago, offers high-quality estate jewels that occasionally include carved gemstones. Recently, a unique Victorian-era carved malachite and 18-karat yellow gold brooch hammered out at $1,400 against a preauction estimate of between $600 to $800. Director of Fine Jewelry and Timepieces Alison Neumann was very pleased with that particular sale. Noting the variety of collectors who are drawn to carved gemstones, Neumann comments, “I would say that our buyers range from different ages and professions, especially for carved jewelry. It depends greatly on how a piece is carved; the detail and precision of a carving will obviously demand higher prices.”
Contemporary high-end designer Gumuchian Fils is known for top-notch jewelry favored by the international set, offering fresh-looking designs that are always elegantly styled but never trendy. Designer Myriam Gumuchian displays her flair for whimsy with a carved piggy brooch interpreted in a fine pink tourmaline. Her realistically carved doggie brooch proves that wearing fine classically styled jewels needn’t be a somber affair.
Olivia Behar, in marketing and public relations for Gumuchian, offers insight into the backstory behind creating each unique carved gemstone jewel in the Gumuchian Fils collection. “The inspiration of those carved gems started with Ms. Gumuchian’s trip to Egypt, when she visited a temple and after which created a brooch in black onyx. We sold it immediately — not only to the store, but also to the consumer right away! She decided to create more brooches using carved gems.”
WHAT’S IN A STONE?Behar affirms that the gemstone itself is instrumental in determining just what carved jewelry piece evolves from each stone. Myriam Gumuchian selects only the carved gem that inspires her. When seeing the gem, she already knows what unique piece she will create from it. “Collectors are not often aware of the laborious process involved in creating a carved stone piece,” she notes. “The hardest part with the carved gems of our brooches is that they need to sit well on your blouse. For instance,” she points out, “with the piggy, we had a really hard time deciding where to put the pin, because we really wanted the carved gem to sit perfectly on the person.”
Each natural gemstone has its own particular set of physical, optical and chemical properties unique to its species. These characteristics that provide important clues in making an identifying separation include the way in which a stone fractures. For example, while carving a gemstone, it may create a conchoidal or splintery fracture. These crucial traits affect how an artisan will be able to work a jewel into a sculptural creation.
Award-winning gem sculptor-jewelry designer Helen Serras-Herman has more than a quarter-century experience in unique gem sculptures and jewelry art. Her one-of-a-kind distinctive gemstone work has been featured in numerous trade magazines and books. Serras-Herman finds that gem carvers are forced to deal with a wide range of challenges associated with the physical properties and limitations of diverse gemstone materials. She adds, “They have to take into consideration the gem’s hardness, as harder gems usually require more time for carving, sanding and polishing, which will lead to a higher selling price for the finished work. The quartz family, with about 100 different varieties, is the most popular gem material utilized by carvers worldwide. A gem material harder than quartz is rarer and, therefore, usually more expensive.”
Appealing to the sculpture lover in every carved gemstone jewelry customer, Serras-Herman offers Wearable Sculptures. A part of her gem sculpture lifts out and is worn as jewelry, bridging the world of Fine Art and Wearable Art.
With so many jewelry choices facing today’s collector, an extra quality must appear on the horizon to captivate the connoisseur. That something might just be the hunt for original carved gemstones to expand on an already fine jewelry collection. Serras-Herman has an insider’s take on this burgeoning trend for carved gem jewels. “Jewelry featuring sculptured gems is usually one-of-a-kind art that appeals to a clientele that is sophisticated and educated; a combination of art lover and gem enthusiast, often a collector of rare artwork.”
Article from the Rapaport Magazine - October 2007. To subscribe click here.