RAPAPORT... The Couture show, like most of this industry’s trade fairs, has morphed several times in its history. Despite grumblings about invitees, exhibitors and changes in venue over the years, the latest edition, held
May 28 to June 2 at the Wynn Las Vegas hotel, appeared to be back on track. The reason can be summed up by a trio of factors, all of which came into play at this year’s event. First, as everyone all over the globe knows, the U.S. economy is in free fall; second, the only stable consumer segments appear to be brides and the uberwealthy; and third, manufacturers and retailers know if they plan to stay in the game, they have to give their customer reasons to buy.
The 230 manufacturers and designers gathered at Couture ranged from the big brands to small boutique names. Buyers included a viable mix from “cornerstone retailers,” treated like visiting royalty, to accredited buyers from the JCK show, who made up the balance of the walk-by traffic. According to Couture exhibitors, most established clients made appointments in advance to see major vendors, and then maybe took a little time to stroll the aisles of the show. Substantial numbers of buyers who were not on the official list of Couture invitees but who were allowed in with their JCK badges stopped at Couture to search for new lines. Overall, exhibitors said they were satisfied with the results of Couture and with the caliber of clients they met.
Paula Crevoshay, Albuquerque, New Mexico, featured a collection of one-of-a-kind designs using colored gemstones and diamonds. She said she was very pleased with the outcome of the show. Along with repeat customers who had made appointments, others simply dropped by. Crevoshay noted that she picked up a number of new clients from Canada, probably due to the more favorable exchange rate. Her newest designs feature cognac, pink and rose shades in gemstones and diamonds.
Designer Susan Helmich, Monument, Colorado, observed,“Generally, big diamonds are what’s selling today. Color sells, but not to the degree we have hoped.” Most of Helmich’s designs are one-of-a-kinds using custom-cut gemstones, although she has begun using more white and colored diamonds as accents.
COLORED DIAMONDS SCORE BIGIf award-winning designs are any indication, now is the right moment to showcase natural colored diamonds. In the 2008 Town&Country Couture Design Awards competition, Erica Courtney, Los Angeles, captured a prize for her black diamond ring and Valente, Milan, won one for a dramatic diamond necklace with a waterfall centerpiece of multicolored diamonds.
Courtney, thrilled by her award, was equally excited about the positive reception to her newly launched bridal collection of diamond rings in platinum and yellow gold. Each ring can be personalized with the bride’s initials on either side of the setting surrounding the center stone.
Brian Sholdt, Seattle, introduced an expanded bridal collection at the show that includes both white and cognac diamonds. He said he has simplified the look of the rings and customers have responded favorably. “I’ve stripped down my designs to the essentials,” he explained. “With metals prices so high, why throw a lot of extra weight into a ring?” Many of Sholdt’s new designs are graceful and minimal, with prong-set diamonds on a thin band. He is also enthusiastic about palladium. “It’s selling like hotcakes,” he said, “and the price is 10 to 15 percent less than 18-karat white gold.”
Despite the steadily rising value of the euro, several European exhibitors reported strong show results. Sergio Antonini, principal of Antonini, Milan, was highly enthusiastic about his reception at Couture. He recently signed on with ViewPoint, a New York designer marketing company, to represent his collection in the United States and said he plans to cut back on all superfluous trade shows and instead put all of his efforts into Basel and Couture.
Damiani Group, Valenza, took a large exhibition space at the show in order to display the newest collections from its four brands. Wendel Ruiz, Damiani marketing representative, reported that the best-selling items were either very important pieces or those that were quite small. Balancing the diamond-encrusted Sophia Loren and Chignon collections are the company’s sporty Orbit series and its Bliss collection, both aimed at younger customers.
RETURN OF A CLASSICCarrera y Carrera, Madrid, has returned to the U.S. market after a few years’ absence, to the delight of its regular customers, said Nathalie Guedj, chief executive officer (CEO).
“We have hired a new team, have begun advertising and are now in 40 doors in the U.S.,” she said. In addition to the company’s signature animal and nature designs, new collections capture the exoticism of Spain with bullfighter-inspired themes. The Pasodoble collection resembles miniature castanets with movable parts. Created expressly for the U.S., the whimsical Princess collection showcases tiara rings, each representing royalty of a different nation.
Also bitten by the majestic spirit is Penny Preville, Great Neck, New York, who confessed, “I’m obsessed with tiaras.” Her new designs use the crownlike theme on bracelets as well as some elegant diamond headbands. The headbands, retailing for $6,000-plus, have been picked up by several retailers for their bridal customers. Preville’s Imperial and Anastasia collections rely on top-grade diamonds —V, SI clarity and F to G color — set in 18-karat white gold, some with detachable pendants and matching earrings.
“We’ve been busy continually,” said Jay Siskin, Preville’s husband and partner. “I was pleasantly surprised by the mood. People are willing to buy and we’ve done good business.”
Fellow New Yorkers Michael Bondanza and Mimi So also reported strong sales at Couture. Bondanza has added new pieces to his innovative one-of-a-kind,wood-and-diamond bracelet collection, including earrings and chain necklaces whose shapes coordinate with the curling motifs on the bracelets.
So unveiled her bold Jackson Collection that was inspired by a trip to Jackson Hole, Wyoming. The polished gold and pavé elements reflect the dramatic land formations of the West.
Finally, the newly launched Bacall Collection, New York, blends the Hollywood glamour of the past with a modern sensibility. Signed by actress Lauren Bacall, this stylish new line uses diamonds and colored gemstones in 18-karat white and yellow gold, borrowing themes from the Deco and Retro periods. Retailing from $4,000 to $20,000, each piece is highly detailed, engraved with Bacall’s initial and advertised and merchandised with vintage photos of the actress.
Article from the Rapaport Magazine - July 2008. To subscribe click here.