RAPAPORT... The increasing popularity of cultured pearls, along with the recent introduction of new cultured pearl varieties to the market, have heightened the importance of paying closer attention to their descriptions and definitions. This is especially true in the case of Keshi pearls, the exotic, organic gems whose widespread appeal has resulted in other pearl products masquerading as Keshi. As with all gemstones, similar-looking colored gems from different locales can vary considerably in their worth. In the case of Keshi pearls, origin is key to their pricing and to their identity.
Historically, Keshi pearls are understood to be a lovely mishap. The word Keshi means “poppy seed” in Japanese and it was first given to accidental seed-like pearls that unintentionally formed inside nucleated saltwater Japanese Akoya oysters. The implanted nucleus was either expelled or bits of implanted tissue had loosened — in any case, these little surprises were serendipitous. Similar occurrences in South Seas and Tahitian pearl farming produced larger-millimeter sizes and ever more unusual shapes. Keshi-like pearls result from similar development in freshwater cultured pearl farming.
Brand Identity Pearl farmers who cultivate authentic Keshis want to uphold the product’s brand identity and value. To that end, they have pressed for a more clear-cut definition for the term. That job fell to the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), which creates precise terminology designed for universal implementation within the jewelry trade for the benefit of both merchant and consumer. CIBJO’s Pearl Commission report, issued in March 2009, proposes to change the definition of Keshi pearls in the confederation’s Pearl Book, one of three volumes that make up the CIBJO Blue Book.
The report recommends that the trade name Keshi be used to designate a specific type of nonbeaded cultured pearl that was accidentally or intentionally created through “human intervention in marine pearl oysters such as the Akoya oyster (Pinctada fucata), Silver/Gold lipped oyster (Pinctada maxima) and Black lipped oyster (Pinctada margaritifera) and that is a byproduct of the culturing process. The creation results from the formation of a pearl sac either following injury of the mantle rim upon handling, from a partial piece of the inserted, or transplanted, mantle tissue or the whole inserted piece following the rejection of a bead.”
According to Gina Latendresse, president of American Pearl Company, the focus word is “marine” or “saltwater” when describing these pearl varieties. “What was originally a small pearl produced as a byproduct of the culturing process is today, as defined by CIBJO, a cultured pearl formed accidentally or intentionally resulting from bead nucleation in which a bead and tissue graft is inserted into a saltwater mollusk,” Latendresse affirms. The bead is rejected, leaving only the tissue graft or sac to form a cultured pearl. The advantage is that the resultant pearls are nearly solid nacre, something only natural pearls once boasted.
Saltwater OnlyEssentially, Keshis have a tissue core and, in the strictest letter of the law, according to CIBJO, they are produced exclusively in saltwater. The problem is that creating these nacre-rich, free-form pearls has been so enticing that farmers using the procedure in fresh water also have called their pearls Keshi. To clarify which pearls can be described as Keshi and which can not, “CIBJO came up with the new definition,” says Latendresse. But the new policy, she says, “has received scant media in the states because freshwater pearl farmers do not want to stop calling their freshwater pearls Keshi.”
In response, some pearl suppliers are now calling their freshwater versions Keshi-like or even Reborn pearls. In this way, they yield to CIBJO’s proclamation that only saltwater pearls developed in a specific manner may bear the trade name Keshi. American Pearl Company’s freshwater keshi-like pearls have their own branded identity — Lagniappe cultured pearls — meaning a “little something extra.”
Authentic Keshis often are large, free-form-shaped pearls that can resemble individual flower petals up to 25 millimeters or more in size. The size and the shape of Keshi pearls vary greatly depending on the host mollusk. For instance, in The Pearl Buying Guide, author Renée Newman points out, “There is a large range of sizes for South Sea Keshi —from small seed-sized to the size of a baby’s fist.” One never sees the exact same shape twice, and that’s part of the appeal. The thick nacre, variety of color, depth of luster and evocative shapes all add to their charm.
Popular With DesignersThe larger Keshi specimens are laden with many layers of thick nacre — often exhibiting remarkable luster. This quality is what has made Keshis the current darlings of the pearl world and explains why they are harvested so enthusiastically. It is the reason the market is seeing more Keshi jewelry.
These every-one-is-unique pearls produce one-of-a-kind pieces. Betty Sue King, owner of King’s Ransom, says her customers enthusiastically embrace Chinese freshwater versions of Keshis. Referring to the Chinese pearl farmers, King says they are very resourceful and “They’ll do whatever they need to in terms of marketing them.” The Chinese freshwater Keshi-style cultured pearls have a distinctive appearance. “They often take the shape of petals, with very beautiful variations in their form.” King finds that theintense luster of the Chinese freshwater keshi-like cultured pearls often borders on the metallic look, and they are collected for their natural colors as well as their affordability.
Market ValueKing says the difference in price for freshwater Keshi-like pearls and Tahitian Keshis is significant. For instance, 10- to 12-millimeter Chinese cultured keshi-like pearls that occasionally come in dark gray-purple tones retail for approximately $1,800 for a 16-inch strand. “A similar strand of Tahitian Keshi would have different tones of dark colors, of course,” King says, “and a strand of those Keshis of the same size may retail for $4,000.”
Because of the unique shape of Keshi and Keshi-like cultured pearls. they also are sold individually. The price is based on their size and shape, and their luster. “Our Lagniappe cultured pearls are priced from $5 to $200 each. In the beginning of our pearl farming adventure, the Lagniappes were weighed in carats. Most pearl farms around the world sell their Keshi in carats or grams,” explains Latendresse.
Several years ago, American Pearl Company established individual pearl pricing to provide more detailed information to its customers. “It was very difficult for designers to see our beautiful Lagniappes, empty the bag and begin their design ideas without knowing what the cost would be.”
So exactly who is the customer for Keshi cultured pearls? The woman who wears Keshis and the freshwater Keshi-style pearls are in King’s words “leaders of the pack. They are not afraid of color. They are chic, fearless, contemporary women.”
The surging demand for these enchanting pearls has made them strong sellers for many suppliers. Pierre Akkelian, president of Canadian Gem, believes that consumer education is vital to their positive reception. “People love Keshis — including me — because they are the closest thing you can get to natural pearls.”
Article from the Rapaport Magazine - June 2009. To subscribe click here.