Rapaport Magazine
Style & Design

Right on the marquise

Named for the lips of a king’s mistress, this tapered cut adds a sensual edge to stylized jewels.

By Rachel Taylor

Image background: Shutterstock

Marquise diamonds have always been provocative. Considering they were named for French King Louis XV’s mistress, the Marchioness Madame de Pompadour, in honor of her sultry lips, could they have been anything but?

While it may not be scandal and adultery that attract designers to this elongated cut today, the shape does lend an edge to their work. As Maria Carola Picchiotti of Italian jewelry house Picchiotti puts it: “If a piece of jewelry is attractive with a twist of originality, then a marquise diamond can be the perfect stone.” Using one in place of a round diamond on an engagement ring is indeed a striking swap — and one that is kind to fingers, as it makes them appear longer. These stones also add interest to classic diamond designs such as eternity rings, line bracelets and ear studs, particularly when claw settings are sharpened to continue the tapered effect.

Marquise cuts are evocative in their sensuality, making them an excellent choice for evil eyes, flower petals, and the bodies of butterflies. Indeed, they can inspire the entire silhouette of a jewel. And for those who want to craft a celebration of mixed cuts — an increasingly popular theme — no piece would be complete without a marquise or two. The marchioness would be proud.

Rachel BostonEngagement ring with a marquise diamond in 18-karat yellow gold.


Zoe ChiccoAura cuff with diamonds in 14-karat gold.


Jade TrauPoppy open band ring with marquise and pear-shaped diamonds in 18-karat gold.


Grace LeeHelix ring with marquise diamonds in yellow gold.


HallehEcho Wave necklace with diamonds and enamel in 18-karat gold.


Ellis Mhairi CameronLX engagement ring with a 0.45-carat chocolate diamond.


Ilaria LanzoniThe Look of Love diamond stud earring in 18-karat gold.


Anita KoDiamond eternity band in 18-karat gold.


AlmasikaHarmony ring with diamond in 18-karat gold.


Article from the Rapaport Magazine - June 2022. To subscribe click here.