Rapaport Magazine

Designer Lines

By Amber Michelle
The recent round of summer shows in New York City highlighted all kinds of jewelry, from deluxe luxe pieces to affordable glamour. The summer kicked off with the New York Antique Jewelry & Watch Show held at the Metropolitan Pavilion. Dealers gathered at this open-to-the-public event and showcased jewelry that ranged from the Victorian era to modern-day reproductions. Top sellers remain pieces from the Art Deco era and big, gold jewelry. Two days later, the JA New York summer show opened at Javits Center, where the Design Center was a main attraction.
   One of the highlights of the program was the announcement of the JA Mort Abelson New Designer of the Year Award, a distinction that was given to Todd Pownell of TAP by Todd Pownell. Based in Cleveland, Ohio, the designer’s work is characterized by bead setting diamonds upside down. Pownell reverse sets the diamonds to capture the reflection of light in a succession of broad flashes that creates a feeling of twilight in the jewelry. A member of Ethical Metalsmiths, Pownell operates a “green” studio. Juxtaposed to the more upscale designer community at the show were a number of designers from India who continue to keep slices — especially sapphires — at the forefront of their creations. Rose cut diamonds, white sapphires or white topaz were frequently used to enhance the slices and to provide a range of price points. Over at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel on Park Avenue, the JCK Luxury Privé show hosted 40 upscale exhibitors, many of whom focused on diamonds or high-end colored gemstones. Silver Promotion Service was a sponsor for the three days. The top design trends on display were nature motifs of flowers or birds; rose gold set with champagne or white diamonds also made a strong showing. Later in the week, Couture held a press preview at the Loft in midtown that focused on the work of six designers. In attendance was Yoko London, featuring jewelry with natural color purple pearls in diamond-centric designs. Buddha Mama brought a spiritual twist to diamond-accented handmade jewelry inspired by Buddhist and Eastern traditions. The following week, the ENK Accessories Circuit filled the halls of Javits Center. Dilamani made an appearance at the show with diamond slice earrings that shimmered with style. Meredith Marks brought her collection of very wearable diamond, gold and colored gemstone jewelry as well. The trend at this show went in two directions: small and stackable or large-scale statement pieces. Overall, the trends in jewelry continue with rose gold and blackened metals leading the way. Rose cut and silver diamonds remain major players, as do slices. Openwork and geometric forms were prevalent and are classics that are modern today, but will still be in style a decade from now.

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - September 2014. To subscribe click here.

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