By September in Italy, vacation time is over and jewelers’ rejuvenated creativity takes center stage. VicenzaOro Fall, held September 6 to 10, offered both updated versions of already successful styles and a few surprises for the holiday season that could be carried over into spring. As always at the Vicenza shows, the range was vast, from one-of-a-kind creations to mass-market production that included chains, earrings, charms and pendants. Yellow gold and silver were the metals of choice, but there was expanded use of alternative metals. White and colored diamonds and precious gemstones reigned in couture collections while rainbows of pastel-colored gemstones were the order of the day in fashion lines. Needless to say, most Italian designers are up to the minute in fashion trends and skewed their designs accordingly. Here’s a look at some of the top trends.
Just because the price of metals is high doesn’t mean
Italian jewelers are skimping on size. Popular at this show were voluminous,
rounded shapes and puffy links, as well as spirals, wraps and overlapping
designs, the latter usually featuring several layers of lightweight gold.
Electroformed, laser-cut and openwork designs were especially well received.
Bold 18-karat gold jewelry provides the perfect counterpoint to fall’s
oversized coats, jackets, capes and wraps. For the most impact, a single piece
of statement jewelry carries the oversized message without overwhelming the
total look.
Bracelet by Chimento 
PRIMARY COLORS
The clear, bright colors that dominate fall/winter fashions
are expected to remain in full bloom for spring. Among the most popular hues
are orchid, royal blue, yellow, sangria and, of course, red. What better way to
capture this brilliant color message than a one-of-a-kind design that combines
a rainbow of different sized and colored gemstones?
Scarab cuff by Wendy Yue
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IT’S A STRETCH
Comfort is no longer the antithesis of fashionableness, and
for jewelry and clothing alike, stretchy and body-wrapping designs are the
latest trend. Many fashion brands showed bulky, yet soft and fluffy knits in
their fall and winter collections in sweaters, wraps and coats. Not to be left
out in the cold, some of Italy’s top jewelers also adopted the trend with
intricately constructed stretchy rings and bracelets that are not only
comfortable to wear, but practical and versatile in terms of movement and
sizing. Some have a spring-like inner core that allows movement; others are
made with individually connected links that widen and contract as the body
moves.
Bracelet by Garavelli
ON THE SIDE
Side interest may be just a detail, but it is a significant
one for designers and wearers of contemporary jewelry, particularly in the
categories of earrings and rings. Eye-catching three-dimensional designs add
side interest in the forms of diamonds or gemstones, engraving or textured
details. When worn, the extra detail is sometimes visible only to the wearer.
At other times, it can be seen from the sides or the backs of the earrings and rings
for viewers to enjoy.
Rings by Brumani
Bohemian, 1960s-inspired and gypsy styles will be huge trends in 2015 resort and spring collections. The show’s free-spirited, colorful designs are reflective of those carefree, casual times. The right jewelry to carry that message is exotic yet wearable, either large and statement making or smaller in size but intended to be worn in multiples, often in different colors. The earrings are always large and free swinging, the necklaces are either dramatic collars or layered links and the bracelets, large cuffs with layers of gemstones or simple bangles worn several to the wrist. To achieve this look, designers combine precious and nonprecious elements, such as natural gemstones with silver and glass beads.
Article from the Rapaport Magazine - October 2014. To subscribe click here.