Rapaport Magazine
Style & Design

Making magic happen

Paris-based jeweler Lorenz Bäumer talks about the meaning behind his latest collections and recounts his brush with royalty.

By David Brough

Designer Lorenz Bäumer has dabbled in everything from royal wedding jewelry to diamonds with tattoos. In September, he exhibited for the first time at the Biennale Paris fair in the French capital’s Grand Palais. In addition to diamond jewels, Bäumer — who has a boutique at 19 Place Vendôme — showcased extraordinary colored-gemstone creations in his new Black Magic and Rêverie D’été collections. He also presented a 199-carat one-off aquamarine in a white gold, diamond and crystal necklace inspired by a glacier.

What pieces did you bring to the Biennale?

We wanted to bring pieces that are extremely creative and different, that express our point of view very well.

What are your latest collections about?

The Black Magic collection features very beautiful colored stones on a black backdrop, which allows the colors to show out more. The stones include beryls, and purple tourmaline from Mozambique. The Rêverie D’été collection, inspired by an enchanted garden, features all sorts of colors together, including opaque, translucent and transparent pieces, with exquisite enameling.

What are your sources of inspiration?

My inspiration is quite varied. It might be technology, or paintings, or a woman, or an amazing theme. It is important that my jewelry is meaningful: It is a way of saying that you love someone — or yourself. After all, many people purchase jewelry for themselves. It is also important that technology and innovation bring something to my jewelry — for example, 3D printing, tattooed diamonds, and special cuts. Overall, I would say that my jewelry is innovative, meaningful, and has a love of colors. With an edgy, “rock and roll” side.

For whom do you create?

We have clients from everywhere. They are often Americans, or French and other Europeans. We meet clients when we exhibit at shows like [art and design fair] PAD London, and we host events for our customers in places like Monaco, the south of France, and New York. Our boutique on Place Vendôme is a destination: Clients make an appointment or just come in.

How do you work with diamonds?

I like cushion and emerald cuts. I sometimes buy at auctions, and I have privileged ties with dealers. I love white diamonds and colored diamonds: pinks, oranges and browns. The brown stones are wonderful and come in various shades. I have created bespoke pieces around pink diamonds.

Can you tell us more about your tattooed diamonds?

Tattooed diamonds allow you to have a sketch on the surface of a diamond — for example, a symbol that inspires you. You could ask your child to do a little sketch for his mom and have it engraved on a diamond. People love having tattoos on their bodies. Tattooed diamonds are a similar concept.

What are your most iconic creations?

I joined a competition in 2010 to create a diamond tiara for [former Olympic swimmer] Charlene Wittstock, for her wedding to Prince Albert II of Monaco. Some major houses were asked to present a drawing. I won the competition. The tiara is inspired by the love [that] Princess Charlene, myself and Monaco [share] for water. The tiara is now on display in the Forbidden City [in Beijing, China]. A tiara is very elegant, because it captures the light around the head.

Image: Lorenz Bäumer

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - November 2018. To subscribe click here.

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Tags: David Brough