Rapaport Magazine
Style & Design

Lacquered looks

Designers are putting pops of color in their pieces with vibrant enamel.  

By Rachael Taylor

Bright, bold enamel jewelry has been the runaway hit of the past few seasons as designers have stepped up to fuel our seemingly unquenchable thirst for endorphin-enhancing color. The medium acts as a versatile paint box for jewelers, allowing them to create scale and color without investing in pricier colored gemstones.

Yet this trend isn’t restricted to fashion jewelry. In an unorthodox design move, Italian designer Bea Bongiasca launched a diamond engagement-ring collection that weaves her signature lacquered gold swirls over the top of the stones.

Melissa Kaye was one of the first luxury jewelers to succeed with a collection of super-bright enamels. Her neon designs won her critical acclaim and sales. “There is an infinite number of options,” says the New York-based artist. Lately, she has started to experiment with pastel hues, but says colors like hot pink, sunny yellow and electric green remain best sellers.

“Clients are attracted to the fluorescent colors because of their undeniable mood-boosting effect,” she says. “The bright colors also pair well with diamonds, giving fine jewelry a more relaxed and wearable feel that resonates with today’s consumer.”

While Kaye was a pioneer, other brands are increasingly warming to the commercial power of energetic enamels.

Bea Bongiasca

Navette bridal set in 18-karat gold with a trillion-cut diamond and purple enamel.



Robinson Pelham

 Arena ring in 18-karat gold, diamonds, and green enamel with a Muzo emerald.



Melissa Kaye

Riley ring in 18-karat gold with diamonds and orange enamel.




Fruit Hoops bracelet in 18-karat gold, diamonds and blue enamel.



Sarah Ho

Sky Magic earrings in enamel and 18-karat gold with diamonds.



Selim MouzannarAïda ring in enamel and 18-karat gold with diamonds and an opal.


Nadine Aysoy

Catena necklace with sapphires, topaz, amethyst, diamonds and enamel in 18-karat gold.


Image: Bea Bongiasca

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - October 2022. To subscribe click here.