Tevye, a dairyman in “Fiddler on the Roof,” apparently had the right idea when he sang about tradition. Contrary to claims that today’s young women want something totally different from their mothers’ and grandmothers’ diamond engagement rings, tradition plays a very important role in the style and design of the ring, according to jewelers across the country.
In fact, when one asks retailers what the hot new trends are in diamond engagement rings, many laugh outright and say the classics — solitaires and three-stone rings — remain the strongest and most consistent best sellers.
While these classics are dominant, there are a few changes in style compared to 10 to 15 years ago. Platinum or white gold appears to be the number one choice in metal and second in popularity to the round brilliant center stone — and, in some cases, overtaking it — is the princess-cut stone.
Design
In terms of style, the majority of brides favor antique, Art Deco or Retro looks with engraving, filigree and millgrain details and sometimes a wider band with a lacy, openwork design. The ring’s overall design is soft-edged and feminine, even if the center diamond is an emerald or princess cut.
Tyler DeScenza, diamond buyer for the four-store Alfred F. DeScenza & Sons Jewelers, Boston, Massachusetts, reports that his best-selling engagement rings are the most traditional, led by the round brilliant solitaire, followed by the princess-cut solitaire and then by a three-stone design. The majority of these rings are set in platinum. The average size of the center stone is 1.25 carats — very few diamonds are less than 1 carat.
The three-stone ring, known as the Bostonian style, is another favorite. The popular style is all stones in the same cut, although designs with trapezoid-shaped side diamonds are growing in popularity. “Rings with radiant cut, brilliant trapezoids give a ring a less blocky, more delicate look,” says DeScenza.
On the West Coast, Rick Velago, store manager at Gleim the Jeweler, Palo Alto, California, says that the round brilliant diamond of about 1 carat is the traditional best seller. “The most requested cut is the princess,” he says. “But many times, when couples make the comparison of a princess cut to a well-cut round in the same size, they go for the round.”
Lisa Corbo-Berger, co-owner of Michael Anthony Jewelers, West Caldwell, New Jersey, a two-store unit in northern New Jersey, says the round brilliant remains far and away the best-selling shape, most often in settings with side accents. “We do receive lots of requests for princess or Asscher cuts,” she says, “with small princesses, baguettes or rounds on the sides.”
According to Mark Levinson of Levinson Jewelers, the story is different in Plantation, Florida. Levinson reports that the emerald-cut and princess-cut radiant diamonds in 2-carat to 4-carat sizes are the best-selling diamond shapes among his upscale clientele. “These cuts give the ring a square symmetry rather than round,” he says.
The most well-known shape is the round brilliant. The pear shape is picking up slightly in popularity, but the marquise and heart shapes are showing no substantial growth. Levinson says that colored diamonds are becoming popular among the luxury market segment, particularly in yellows, pinks and blues.
A New Look
One new look showing marked growth is the use of micro-set diamonds — small diamonds set very close together, either framing or accenting the center stone.
Gretchen Braunschweiger, co-owner of Braunschweiger Jewelers, Morristown, New Jersey, says that micro-set designs where the center stone has a rim of smaller stones surrounding it are very strong. “They’ve been around for six to eight months, but are just now catching on. This setting technique makes the center stone look bigger.”
Levinson also notes the salability of micro-set diamonds. The small stones can be around the center stone or dotted on the shank of the ring. Levison says that the secret to using these small stones in this way is to enhance the center stone, rather than competing with it.
Branded Diamonds
Noting success in marketing branded diamonds for engagement rings are the Kay Jewelers and Jared The Galleria of Jewelry, divisions of Sterling Jewelers Inc., Akron, Ohio. According to David Bouffard, marketing director and company spokesperson, the patented Leo Diamond® is enjoying great success in engagement rings. Available in round and princess cuts, this 66-facet cut reportedly gives more brilliance, sparkle and fire than a comparable round diamond — a difference that is visible to the naked eye.
Sales associates in Sterling’s 1,126 U.S. stores are trained to first present the Leo Diamond. Top sellers include diamonds of 1 carat and above with price tags ranging from $5,000 and up. However, most engagement rings in Sterling’s stock are 14-karat yellow gold with platinum heads.
For couples on a tighter budget, Sterling offers Princessa, a design in which four princess-cut diamonds are set so close together that they resemble a single, larger stone. The price of the Princessa begins around $2,000.
Men
With all the emphasis on the bride’s diamond, it is only fair to also consider the man’s ring. Does today’s man want glitz in his wedding ring? Not really, according to retailers. However, many men opt for platinum rings — most often without diamond accents — because they like the color and the metal’s substantial weight. This is probably due to price, as well as fashion factors.
For men’s wedding bands, the rule of thumb is the simpler and more understated, the better. “We have very conservative customers,” Braunschweiger notes. “They like very plain bands. For them, something wild is a two-tone design.”
Corbo-Berger and Levinson agree. At Michael Anthony, most male customers choose platinum rings with carved designs as accents, but with no diamonds. Levinson Jewelers sells mostly plain platinum or white gold bands with no diamonds, or sometimes with a single diamond.
Agreeing that men prefer simplicity, Bouffard cites a growing trend toward alternative metals for wedding rings. “Men have been caught up in the white metal frenzy, but choosing titanium or steel makes the ring more affordable than platinum or white gold,” he says. Again, the sales leaders are mostly styles without diamonds.
Service
The most successful retailers say that their aim is not simply to sell an engagement ring, but instead to become involved with a couple’s entire wedding. This means offering services such as bridal registries, attendants’ gifts and follow-up services such as jewelry repair and cleaning and anniversary gift suggestions. “When selling an engagement ring, our sales personnel offer a whole wedding presentation,” says Bouffard.
DeScenza features a full bridal registry, with items ranging from personal to tabletop to home accessories, including an assortment of attendants’ gifts. At Braunschweiger’s, the most popular gift for the bridal attendant is the tin-cup necklace made of multicolored pearls and sterling silver — a wearable, youthful look that will not break the bank at $40 to $75.
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