Italy’s Orogemma jewelry show, which took place in late September, ended on a note of optimism, having attracted record numbers of buyers from a long list of international markets.
Americans were the strongest foreign contingent, followed by Germans, Austrians, British, Brazilians and Eastern Europeans. There were 16,000 registrants including Italians — 700 more than in 1999.
The results satisfied the organizers and Giovanni Lasagna, the president of the Ente Fiera Vicenza, who ascribes the success to efforts to strengthen the relationships with leading foreign jewelry markets, new partnerships established with the emerging markets, and a constant monitoring of the domestic market.
The three-point strategy was a winning one, said Andrea Turcato, general secretary, and it will be continuously retooled to keep up with rapid changes the market is going through.
The inaugural Oromacchine winter exhibition, which is to take place in a separate, 6000-square-meter pavilion, is not far off. The new area will allow an expansion and rearrangement of floor space, enabling the addition of new exhibitors and higher-impact booths for those whose displays have been confined to narrow spaces.
Special Events
Orogemma served as a backdrop to several special events. Condé Nast Editions used the opportunity to announce the birth of its Vogue Gioiello website. Jewelers and consumers may find information about the market, trends and events as well as an extensive directory where companies may exhibit their collections at the address www.voguegioiello.net.
The exhibition "The Colour of Platinum," was presented in the G-C gallery, which was renamed "The Gallery of Platinum" for the occasion. The exhibit wove a path through pieces designed, at The Platinum Guild’s request, by 60 Italian manufacturers. The pieces illustrated the range of shades in this extremely versatile metal.
The Tahitian Pearl Trophy Exhibition, organized in Italy by Foundation for the Promotion of Australian and Tahitian Pearls, was on display at another pavilion. The Foundation is the Italian promotional nonprofit association of G.I.E. Perles de Tahiti, an association set up by the government of French Polynesia in 1993 to promote its own pearls.
Eighty finalists’ pieces containing magnificent pearls and diamonds, designed by jewelers from all over the world, were exhibited in Vicenza and then flown to Hong Kong. On October 8, the collection will be in Paris for an awards presentation. The Foundation also organized a gala dinner featuring music, models and buffets. Guests were welcomed in perfect Tahitian style. Catherine Guillaume, the Foundation’s manager, and Martin Coeroli, the G.I.E Perles General Manager, proved to be an impeccable mistress and master of the house.
Trend-Spotting
Rich colors were hot in precious stones; white and yellow in metals. The fashion industry has instigated a come-back for color, even in jewelry, bringing the following stones back into the limelight: rubies, sapphires, emeralds, tourmaline, topaz and amethyst.
Less expensive colored stones are often accompanied by diamond pavé, which plays as strong a role as solitaires. The lightly sculpted ring line by Alfieri & St. John, with high-carat amethysts and blue topazes, the geometric line by Centoventuno and the black diamond rings by Giorgio Visconti are the splendid examples of the marriage between colored stones, which are not always precious, and diamond pavé.
But Damiani Group, RE Carlo, Piero Milano, Barberis & Prati, Verdi and Stefan Hafner have introduced lots of all-white jewelry as well in white gold and diamonds, always rich in details and carats.
After years dedicated to complete whiteness with diamonds (in both platinum and gold), Antonini has diversified and introduced the Brasilia line, which is its most promising line to date, even in yellow gold, a metal for which everyone is expecting a big comeback at any moment.
The colors for La Nouvelle Bague are provided by enamels: orange, sky blue, black and red are the shades that are in for the upcoming season. The Florentine company, well known in the U.S., has been chosen to accessorize the famous opera soprano Fiorenza Cedolins, also known as the Diamond Diva, who will debut in Los Angeles next year. The New Baroque line in white gold and diamonds, worn by the soprano for the Requiem of Verdi at the Arena of Verona last August, is still a best seller.
Another strong trend is the Nordic-style design with clean-cut lines and geometric forms. It’s suitable for further enhancing the beauty of a variety of diamonds cuts.
At the moment, great emphasis is placed on platinum, even in jewels aimed at and priced for a younger crowd. They consist of thin chains with tiny pendants. Also for young women, although richer ones, are Diamond Line Bracelets, created by a pool of producers with different type of diamond cuts: brilliant, princess or fantasy, set in geometric, spiral, helix or other-shaped elements.
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