By Cristiana Bonomi
A profusion of diamonds and colored stones, some of notable size, were in the limelight at the autumn edition of Valenza Gioielli, held in Valenza October 8-11. This is a traditional stop for the Italian and foreign market, which normally arrives in the form of delegations invited by the fair organizers. This time buyers came from the United States, the Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Spain, Japan, Belgium and the Netherlands.
Fashion Show
The fair, which unfortunately is increasingly losing competitiveness in the sector, was accompanied by a highly entertaining event. The organizers, the Associazione Orafa Valenzana, put on a fashion show to present jewelry from various manufacturers along with a selection of stylish and fashionable hats by Borsalino, an historic name in the millinery world, also from Valenza. Some of the jewelry in the show included a parure in white gold and diamonds by Antonio Farina; the Pyramid collection, composed of earrings, pendant and ring with diamonds and emeralds, by B&B Gioielli; the Golden Waves line, with satin gold and diamonds, by Sonetto Fratelli; a flamboyant parure from the Preziosi line, by Gioielli 2000; and the Morgana line by Gioj with multicolored sapphires and diamonds. Equally spectacular was a piece from Illario, a company headed by the new president of the Associazione Orafa Valenzana, Vittorio Illario. The firm provided a bracelet in the form of a snake with diamonds and emeralds and a ring with uncolored and fancy colored diamonds.
This fashion show confirmed that the Associazione Orafa Valenzana is looking for new ways of presenting jewelry, apart from at trade fairs, whether through cultural channels, such as thematic conferences, or at more social events, such as fashion shows.
Low Attendance
However, the exhibitors were mostly unhappy with the number of visitors, which only totalled around 3,000. The general impression was that Valenza Gioielli has lost its international appeal, particularly since some big names, such as Damiani Group, Alfieri & St. John and Pasquale Bruni, decided not to exhibit in Valenza any more.
Nevertheless, Valenza Gioielli remains an important meeting place, with its exclusive jewelry characterized by a profusion of precious and colored stones. High quality is the main characteristic of the Valenza sector, which has over 1,300 small and medium-sized companies, and accounts for 7,300 jobs. Around 80 percent of the precious stones imported to Italy are processed in Valenza, in addition to 30 tons of gold; over 65 percent of the jewelry produced is exported, especially to the U.S., Japan, Germany and Switzerland.
Valenza and its surroundings include prestigious companies such as Roberto Legnazzi, Illario, Verdi, Damiani and Pasquale Bruni, whose products are aimed at the high-end of the market.
Not all the big names were present at Valenza Gioielli, but the range of products was sufficient to give an idea of the diversity of Valenza jewelry. There was also haute couture jewelry — with traditional designs reminiscent of pieces by Harry Winston, dripping with diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds, using classic cuts (baguette, emerald, brilliant) and much creativity. Pieces were from Stefan Hafner and Gaspari with their film star colliers, and Illario’s decidedly dramatic bracelets and colliers. Also at the high end, but more avant garde in style, is Roberto Legnazzi and his second line, Jenny Gold, a range of jewelry exploiting brightly-colored enamels and elaborate pavés of precious stones. More linear, but always richly worked, are the parures by Bosco, with their fancy diamonds and colored stones, characterized by bamboo-style work. There is a very strong tendency to use white/black gold or platinum, two metals often worked in the same way: exploiting clean-cut lines, an absence of decoration and square shapes, evoking contemporary architecture. The return of yellow gold for the moment is still only vaguely in the air, and a long way off from being found once more at trade fairs and in shop-windows. It will be months before it can take the place of white gold. In Vicenza, as well as in Valenza there was great success of Tahitian grey and black pearls. The success in Italy of these gems from the sea is due to the promotional work carried out in recent years by the Foundation for the promotion of Australian and Tahitian pearls, based in San Marino Republic.
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