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Fancy Shapes Series -- Context Cut
Aug 10, 1998 11:43 AM
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The Context Cut is a registered trademark and patent of Dr. Freiesleben, Munster, Germany. Stone Coast Gems is the exclusive distributor of the cut in the United States and Canada.
In 1997, the Context cut won the “Best of the Best Award” for highest quality design in the Design Innovationen competition in Germany.
Physical Characteristics and Cutting Issues
The Context was researched and developed in the early 1980s by Dr. Ulrich Freiesleben, based on a patented design by master gem designer Bernd Munsteiner from the early 1960s. It is a square shape with a girdle and two culets. When viewed from the top, the stone exhibits a four-point, star-shaped, diagonal cross. The cross illusion is created with eight facets on each side. The light refraction from the facets creates a mirrored optical phenomenon.
The overall shape is that of a pyramid above and a pyramid below, with their flat sides joined, making the cut as close to the natural shape of an octahedron as a cut diamond can be. It is distinguished from other fancies because of its simplicity and uniqueness.
Only one of every 100,000 rough diamonds is of the quality needed for shaping the Context Cut. Because the heart of each perfect crystal used for the cut yields only one diamond, there is more waste per stone. The amount of yield varies, depending on the individual octahedron.
Markets and Marketing
The cut, which was developed in Germany, has been selling for about eight years in Europe, mostly to individual designers and designer-owned galleries. Many U. S. designers are attracted to its classic modernity. It is being incorporated in every category of jewelry.
As an expensive designer cut, it has not yet gained a following in mid-markets or lower. But awareness of the Context is rapidly increasing in the United States, especially in the past year, thanks to advertising and marketing efforts that began two years ago. Trade magazine ads and editorial press have helped to get the word out. The JCK International Jewelry Show in June premiered a collection called “American Designers...in Context,” featuring set jewelry using this cut by well-known designers.
Pricing and Supply
There is a very limited supply of Context Cuts and they are expensive to make, especially in sizes a half-carat and above. The Context is substantially more expensive than traditional cuts of the same size and weight.
What Should Buyers Look For?
The Context exhibits high reflectivity, which is apparent visually. Relative light reflectivity is 115. 4 percent, compared to HRD’s measurement of brilliants at 100 percent and Tolkowsky’s measurement of brilliants at 104. 9 percent. A J-color Context will often reflect lighter than its color grade, as evidenced by sample tests done by an independent applied optics institute in Germany. GIA has also graded some Context Cuts.
Each Context is laser-etched with an individual serial number that refers to a database containing information on that stone’s particularities, its source and cutter. There also is room for additional
inscriptions.
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Tags:
GIA, HRD, JCK, Jewelry, United States
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