RAPAPORT... Though the American economy may not be strong, and many didn’t expect the heavy-hitting U.S. retailers to make an appearance at BaselWorld 2008 and the subsequent SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) in Geneva, most of the key retailers were in attendance, and leading independents were placing orders. Calculating prices was pretty easy this year because, with the fall-off in the dollar’s value, the dollar and Swiss franc were trading almost one for one. Spirits of exhibitors and attendees, although cautious, were still positive.
BaselWorld 2008, the world’s largest watch and jewelry show with well over 2,000 exhibiting companies, opened its doors on April 3 this year to more than 106,000 visitors from around the world. While there was a slight drop in the number of American retailers attending the weeklong show, many key independents such as Cellini Jewelers, Westime, London Jewelers and Leonardo Jewelers, and some majors such as Tourneau and Saks were there and took the opportunity not only to window-shop, but also to buy.
THE LOOKWatch and jewelry halls were busy, with a variety of exciting, new product trends from the approximately 45 countries that unveiled their goods. In the jewelry halls, diamonds in all colors and cuts reigned supreme. Of particular interest in diamond jewelry are mixtures of fancy cuts in necklaces, bracelets and earrings — forming alluring statement pieces. Earrings are long, and often feature pieces that disconnect to do double-duty for daytime and nighttime. Sensual curves are important in all pieces of jewelry — with an emphasis on movement. Most designers offer jewelry that sways with every movement of the wearer for added appeal.
In terms of themes, everything from open-worked links that allow a bit of skin to show through to nature’s bounty of flowers, animals and vines is worked in stylized beauty. Chopard’s stunning haute joaillerie pieces feature pear, marquise, and other fancy cuts in elaborate settings to create exquisite new designs.
Additionally, hearts, locks, charms and geometric elements are all the rage, especially when interpreted in pavé diamonds and gemstones. Circles are particularly popular, either intertwined to form eternity symbols, or left open, with smaller, dangling drops contained within. In Versace’s Atelier series, geometrically cut diamonds form almost three-dimensional cuff bracelets and stepped earrings that flow with each movement of the wearer.
While one might think the record price of gold would have dampened its presence at the show, that was not the case. Gold was especially prominent in all hues of rose and pink, followed by white and, finally, by yellow. Additionally, some interesting tones of gray gold made an appearance. Platinum was also omnipresent, and some designers unveiled palladium and sterling collections. Where gemstones are present, there is a new abundance of cabochons vying for attention.
“There is no wrong or right when it comes to design or materials,” said Michael Pucci of Rebecca, a division of Testi, SPA, which utilizes bronze, steel and sterling for its high-fashion jewelry. “It is only about passion and beauty, about making the woman feel great in what she is wearing.”
DIAMONDSBlack diamonds and cognac diamonds follow white diamonds in popularity in the diamond arena and, with a trend toward black-and-white motifs, often multiple colors of stones are mixed in a single piece of jewelry. David Yurman, for instance, has unveiled a stunning diamond cuff and necklace suite of multicolored gold and diamonds. The cuff features 26 carats of pavé white and champagne diamonds set in 18-karat white and yellow gold for a magnificent, three-dimensional effect.
And if diamonds were all the rage in the jewelry halls, they were equally impressive in the watch halls — truly stealing center stage. In 2008, perhaps more so than ever before, prolific watchmakers are bedecking men’s and women’s watches alike with earth’s glittering gems. What’s more, it’s not just with pavé dials any longer. Baguette diamonds are making a big statement on the bezel and on the case, and watchmakers are clamoring to buy these stones.
Additionally, many brands are featuring gemstones on the dials and bezels. Hublot has unveiled its Big Bang model with orange sapphire baguettes on its bezel, and it also has a version with amethyst baguettes and emeralds. Similarly, Dior has a stunning Christal amethyst collection — a 25-piece series with bracelet and bezel adorned with purple sapphire crystals and amethyst baquettes. Other brands, including de Grisogono, Chanel, Tiret and a host of others, are bedecking their timepieces with rubies, sapphires, black diamonds — even aventurine — and more.
“The demand for watches with gemstones and diamonds has increased around the world,” said Fawaz Gruosi of de Grisogono, the first company to use black diamonds on watches. “Discerning customers know what they are looking for; they want style and distinctive settings.”
In addition to diamond and gemstone settings, watchmakers are offering more mechanical timepieces for women, innovative dial displays and functional readouts, chronographs that time more accurately, a host of new multifunction combination watches and technological inventions, including further advancements in the realm of silicium in movements and escapements. Tourbillons topped the list of groundbreaking designs, rose gold and titanium reigned in terms of case materials and chocolate brown offered mouthwatering inspiration in the way of color for the sophisticated male.
Midway through BaselWorld, the SIHH opened its doors on April 7 to a by-invitation-only retail and press guest list for its 17 participating luxury watch and jewelry exhibitors, who included Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Piaget and Audemars Piguet. There, too, trends included diamonds, gemstones, technological innovations and customization of timepieces.
Watch for separate coverage of the SIHH in an upcoming issue of RDR.
Article from the Rapaport Magazine - May 2008. To subscribe click here.