Rapaport Magazine

Outlook Hopeful

U.S. January Retail Market Report

By Lara Ewen
 

As the 2011 holiday season lurched into its final weeks, retailers anxiously waited for the buying rush that in recent years has hit later and later. Most jewelers acknowledged the large number of late-season shoppers and the stress of waiting for those last-minute sales. But while holiday is still an important time for padding the bottom line, store owners and managers also were looking ahead to 2012 and trying to keep a positive outlook, even as slow December 2011 traffic put everyone on edge.

Waiting and Hoping

Holiday sales are extremely important to the annual revenue totals of most independent jewelers, but getting those crucial customers in 2011 was not easy. “About 25 percent of our annual business is holiday,” said Paul Geiss, owner of Paulo Geiss Jewelers in Charleston, South Carolina. “But business is way off. Our first ten months were good but, toward the end of November, things started to slow down.” Even so, Geiss acknowledged that a lot of shoppers probably wouldn’t come in until just before Christmas. “About 70 percent of our business is last-minute male shoppers,” he said when interviewed just before Christmas. “We are hoping for a very late Christmas.”

Shoppers also come late in the season in Pennsylvania. “Holiday sales are the bottom line,” said Mac Ahmad, vice president of Bartikowsky Jewelers in Wilkes-Barre. “It’s 40 percent. December is your month to make it, and you think about things that you can sell, or move, or do. I don’t know if customers were waiting for sales or what. But we expected it to pick up the week of Christmas Eve. It seems like a trend over the past ten years that the season starts late.” 

On the West Coast, even though the story is similar, optimism is high. “We’re expecting our 2011 holidays to be better than 2010,” said Lula Halfacre, president, chief executive officer (CEO) and co-owner of Traditional Jewelers, with two stores in Southern California. “The economy is getting better, and we anticipate the final weeks of December will be awesome. Holiday sales are very important for us. They’re roughly 20 percent of our overall sales, and we buy all year for our fourth quarter.”

For Scot Congress, owner of Congress Jewelers, with two stores in Florida, sales during the end of the year also are vital to his bottom line. “The period between November 25 and December 24 is one of our most profitable 30 days,” he said.

At some stores, though, especially where engagement is the biggest part of the business, the holidays are not a make-or-break time of year. “Holiday sales are always critical, but for us, it’s about 15 percent of our annual total, and not 35 percent, which is what a typical jewelry store might be,” said Brant Kane, diamond buyer, general manager and partner at E.E. Robbins, with two stores in Washington state. “Engagement, which is our main business, is a little more user-specific. Those customers are as likely to wait for a January vacation to propose, so our December engagement sales are basically not much higher than a good June.”

The Year Ahead

Looking forward to 2012, retailers are wary. Many are taking a wait-and-see approach. “The economy was bad in 2010, and it’s been bad in 2011,” Ahmad said before Christmas. “We’re selling some high-end stuff, and some bigger stones, but the bread-and-butter stuff that people usually buy, they’re not buying, because they don’t have the income. We hope the market starts to turn around, but right now, we’re just trying to get through the end of 2011.”

Geiss was also cautious as he awaited the final sales week before the holiday. “Unless the 2011 holiday season goes really down, I think things will be about even in 2012,” he said. “It’ll be about the same as 2011. I think we won’t get through this downturn until after the election.”

Underlying Confidence

Big-picture issues are also a factor in Halfacre’s outlook. “The new year is going to be busy and challenging, and I hope sales will be better,” she said. “As long as the government is doing what it can do, and unemployment improves, and people have confidence, things should improve. This is America. We get it done.”

For Congress, sales already are starting to take a turn for the better. “Most of our clients are of a more positive mind-set,” he said. For 2012, he predicted a 10 percent increase over 2011.

For others, expectations have been modified to fit new economic realities. “I’m very upbeat for 2012,” said Kane. “My version of upbeat has been reclarified for the economy as it is, but people are now officially sick of waiting, and they’re moving forward with their lives. 2012 won’t be off the charts — like 2007 was — but we’ll see a nice steady growth, in small increments. I’m realistic, and expecting 2 percent increases. So I’m upbeat for the first half of 2012, and if that goes well, I’ll be upbeat for the second half.”

 

The Marketplace

  • Round continues to be a top seller, with cushion cuts selling second best.

  • Demand is for either .90 carats or 2 carats and up. Middle-range stones do not sell as well. 

  • SI1 is the most popular clarity. 

  • G-H is the best-selling color range, though I also sells in better clarities.

  • 18-karat white gold and platinum are tied in setting sales, due to the high price of gold.

  • The average price for an engagement ring, including stone and setting, is $19,000 for high-end and larger stones, and $4,800 for smaller stones.

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - January 2012. To subscribe click here.

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