Rapaport Magazine
Style & Design

Style


Jewelry judge

What’s as hot as ever, and what’s on its way out.

By Rachael Taylor


Still going strong

Even bigger, even better statement earrings
   Long neglected as consumers favored building up charm bracelets, stacking rings and layering necklaces, the earring is now the most talked-about jewel. Innovation has abounded as the trend for creative earrings has evolved from cuffs and climbers into asymmetric designs, solo earrings and devil-may-care pick ’n’ mix combinations. This is a trend that will remain strong over the next year. Along with lopsided lobes, statements like huge shoulder-grazing earrings, colorful fabric tassels and eccentric faux gemstones will keep the ear a noteworthy appendage for jewelers.

Surprise-hit chokers stay on top

   This ’90s throwback has been a surprise success in both the costume and fine jewelry markets, and it seems consumers haven’t fallen out of love with it yet. The choker continued to be the most dominant jewelry trend on the SS18 catwalks after statement earrings. The way consumers will wear these necklaces is changing, however. While in the first flush of fascination, the choker was a standalone statement piece, we are now seeing it incorporated into layers of necklaces, such as at Versace, Christian Dior and Saint Laurent. This calls for more delicate styles, like a simple chain fitted with a diamond solitaire or a charm, rather than the thick strips of black velvet or leather that dominated previous seasons.

Piercing parties

   One of the biggest retail trends of the year has been piercing parties. Consumers have flocked to brand and retailer events to spend the evening with a glass of champagne in one hand, a canapé in the other, and a piercing gun shooting metal through their earlobes. This is simultaneously a retail and a product trend. Such events tick the box for experiential retail (creating memorable experiences, not just purchases) while also capitalizing on the rise of ear studs and on the moneyed, middle-aged, middle-class women who flock toward them in an attempt to relive their youth. With such a strong reaction from consumers, these events should continue to draw in the crowds next year.

PAST THEIR PRIME
High-maintenance hand jewelry
It’s tricky to put on, you certainly don’t want to shake hands while wearing it, and the loss and breakage factors (for both the jewelry and any glass you’re holding) are much higher than for your average cocktail ring. These pieces seem to have been invented solely for Instagram, and from what we hear, all the best like-hungry celebs are moving on to face jewelry.

Swap out the outsized hoops
There has been a hoop resurgence in recent years as consumers have rediscovered this classic, and hoop bars have popped up in department stores and jewelry shops. Shoulder-grazing hoops have yo-yoed between crude and cool throughout the decades, and once again this craze seems to be tapering off as many brands are benching outsize hoops in favor of mini gem-set ones.

Who says punk is dead? Me
This is a catwalk favorite, but its latest incarnation has failed to ignite jewelry shoppers in a blaze of anarchistic consumerism. Despite a few pretty, diamond-set twists on one punk icon — the safety pin — the heavy chains, studded cuffs and gothic skulls seen on the runways have remained a niche market for weekend rock ’n’ rollers.


Images (clockwise): Jezebel London Brick diamond chocker jezebellondon.co.uk; Foundrae Blossom diamond single post earring foundrae.com; Roberto Coin New Barocco diamond earrings robertocoin.com; Katrine Kristensen diamond ear stud katrinekristensen.com

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - December 2017. To subscribe click here.

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