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Retail
Designer Lines
By Amber Michelle
From firefighter to geologist-turned-mine-owner to jewelry designer,
Brian
Cook, owner of Nature’s Geometry, based in Tucson, Arizona, and Bahia,
Brazil, recently won the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) Fashion
Forward Spectrum Award for his Wheel of Light numinous pendant. Cook
made his first trip to Brazil when he was 18, right after meeting his
wife, Kendra — who is Brazilian — when they were in high school. Five
years later, while he was studying geology at Sonoma State University in
California, and traveling to Brazil, he began bringing mineral
specimens and gemstones back to the U.S. to sell. In Brazil, Cook became
fascinated with Paraiba tourmaline, which he came across in 1988, as
the original Pariaba mine was being discovered. He was one of the first
gem dealers to bring Paraiba tourmaline to market. Cook currently owns a
rutile quartz mine in Bahia. Through this mine, he created an
initiative to develop a model for responsibly sourced stones, which can
be replicated for other artisanal small-scale miners anywhere in the
world. He introduced the initiative during the Jewelry Industry Summit
held in New York City in March 2016. In addition to designing jewelry,
Cook continues to work as a consultant in mine exploration and
development.
How did you get the idea for the Wheel of Light design?
I
began experimenting with carving quartz, then drilling a chamber in the
quartz and putting rough gem Paraiba tourmaline in the chamber to
create amulet pendants. I wanted people to have access to the material
in a way that was less expensive. In my mind, Paraiba tourmaline was the
most magical stone I had ever encountered. It has a color and energy I
had never experienced before. After many years of experimenting with
light, color and amplification through the quartz, one dark and stormy
winter night while living in California, the image of the Wheel of Light
appeared in my mind. When I created the first piece and looked at it,
the effect was better than what I had imagined.
What were the challenges in fabricating the Wheel of Light?
The
challenges were the precision cutting, polishing and sealing of the
chambers. The quality of the rough used is also important. I like
high-quality elements, which is why I use 24-karat gold and fine silver
to mount the piece. Previously, all of the pieces have been one-offs,
but we are now creating a brand called Quore jewelry using 18-karat gold
that will be handmade in Los Angeles.
You won the Spectrum Fashion Forward Award for a multicolor Wheel of Light piece. What gives this piece its fashion appeal?
It’s
innovative and the impact when you see it in person is mind-blowing.
It’s intriguing and it pulls you in. It appeals to a youthful attitude
and I’m excited by that attitude. Another designer described it as
“psychedelic.” It has a mystical, magical feeling that conjures up a
vision of Middle-earth. In fashion, there is a lot of interest in
finding a story and meaning in what is being worn and this piece has a
lot to say.
How did you become a jewelry designer?
Working
with stones and being a lapidary artist, it was natural that I began
creating with the stones. I wanted to put the stones into something that
comes to life. I find it very rewarding to design. It is always
satisfying to create something beautiful and powerful and then pass it
on to the next person.Article from the Rapaport Magazine - May 2016. To subscribe click here.
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