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Simply Elegant

In a historic landmark setting, the focus is on modern jewelry at Hamilton Hill in Durham, North Carolina.

By Joyce Kauf
“We delight in introducing people to new designers and serving our customers with passion,” says Sarah Hill, owner of Hamilton Hill in Durham, North Carolina, summarizing her retail philosophy. Describing the store as a jewelry gallery, she explains, “We present a distinctive view with modernist pieces that emphasize simplicity of form from the best designers in the U.S., Western Europe and South America.”
   Hill, who always had an interest in art and design, admits that she “more or less fell into jewelry” after working at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. On the suggestion of Michael Hamilton, her future business partner, she decided to study gemology, earning a graduate gemologist (GG) degree from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Once settling on jewelry as a vocation, this North Carolina native knew she wanted to open a store in Durham.

Durham Renaissance
   “I thought it would be exciting to play a part in the revitalization of downtown Durham,” Hill explains, describing the city as “quirky, diverse, filled with interesting people, both old-timers and newcomers.” Once home to textile mills and tobacco-processing plants, Durham is now situated in the “research triangle,” anchored by Duke University, the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill and North Carolina State University. Hill’s core customer is identified more by psychographics than demographics; “We laugh that we have the world’s most over-educated people,” she says. While their initial customer base has expanded, due in part to an effective website presence, Hill notes that whether near or far, their customers require jewelry that is “unusual and extra special.”
   Hill and Hamilton opened the store in 2001 in Durham’s historic Brightleaf Square. Neither had retail experience. The decision to take the plunge was inspired in great part by the desire to bring something new to Durham. Hill credits Hamilton, a former physician who grew up in France, with helping her refine her eye for design and art and appreciate master craftspeople dedicated to simple, clean lines whose collections have a signature look. “We learn so much from the designers we work with. Each day is like a design seminar,” Hill points out. While her criteria for selecting designers has “gotten sharper” over the years, she has always insisted that designers be a “class act with a genuine, great story.” She continues, “Of course, we have to love the jewelry and we seek exclusivity or as close to it as possible. But they have to speak our language with regard to the level of service and professionalism.”
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Modern and Minimalist
   Rings are Hill’s most important category, followed by earrings. Top sellers include German designers, such as the Bauhaus-influenced Niessing, and the Brazilian designer Antonio Bernardo, known for his sensual, sculptural pieces. The more traditional engagement rings by Sholdt also rank high among Hill’s most popular diamond pieces while pearls from Gellner offer “something for everyone.”
   “I often point out to customers that they should take time to appreciate the metal as well as the stones,” Hill notes, a message that resonates with her customers. While bridal sales dominate, Hill points out that self-purchasing by women “really took off” in 2009, a year after the start of the recession. “I honestly cannot explain it,” she continues, “but whether single, coupled, working or not, women kept our business fairly strong.” Hill also prides herself on being an advocate for her customers in helping them to select the best and most flattering piece. “It would be thoroughly inauthentic of us not to be honest,” she says.
   “We encourage people to come in and bring pieces from their overflowing jewelry boxes to get rid of them, sell them or remodel them,” notes Hill. Custom work is a variation of the traditional approach; 80 percent of it is done through a Hamilton Hill designer partner. Boaz Kashi, Atelier Zobel, Niessing, Sholdt and Dawes Design have created one-of-a-kind custom designs using customers’ stones. Hill admits she did not originally anticipate the level of cooperation on custom-designed pieces she would receive.

Historic Landmark Setting
   Housed in a former tobacco warehouse, the 2,300-square-foot store boasts original red brick walls, exposed ductwork and 20-foot-high wooden ceilings dating from the 1900s. Adding sleek, custom-designed cases atop blonde wood pedestals to this historic landmark, Hill combines the past and present to create the ambience of a sophisticated gallery. Merchandised by designer, the jewelry is displayed along with literary quotes and artistic reproductions. Atop each case is a small book containing descriptions of the pieces and the prices; there are no tags on the jewelry. Books on the French Impressionists, fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli and photographer William Wegman are stacked on the coffee table in front of a red couch. On the walls, art posters take the place of pictures of jewelry ads.
   “We don’t fancy ourselves artists, but are thrilled to be in the curator role. We focus on the simple and elegant — regardless of price,” says Hill. Citing their tagline, “Amazing You,” Hill concludes, “The jewelry has to be curated with care and chosen for specific clients with care. We want to amaze customers with the jewelry and how it looks on them, making them amazing as well.”

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - January 2017. To subscribe click here.

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Tags: Joyce Kauf